[TR] Three O'Clock Rock, Darrington - Till Broad Daylight 5/26/2012

[mattp]

Trip: Three O'Clock Rock, Darrington - Till Broad Daylight

 

Date: 5/26/2012

 

Trip Report:

The Forest Service repaired the road leading to the traditional Darrington crags last week (several newer climbs and some older ones lie in the Squire Creek drainage, to the west). Three O'Clock Rock and Exfoliation Dome are good to go. Green Giant Buttress, too.

 

We had a favorable weather forecast for Saturday so I headed out there with my friend Mark. Actually, I headed out there after my friend Mark (he woke up, looked at the blue sky, and couldn't wait for me to get to his house at the appointed hour).

 

I hiked up the trail, coffee in hand, and found Mark setting up a self-belay. He traded me for a blueberry bush and we climbed "Till Broad Daylight," re-bolted the first two pitches, and enjoyed a sunny Spring day at Darrington. The original bolts were 1/4 x 3/4" split shank button heads although some were 1 1/4". These were not much bigger than roofing nails. Seriously! These old bolts mostly came out very easily with Mr. Crow(bar) but two of them were actually pretty solid. I'm pretty sure the new stainless steel anchors are safer.

 

 

Danny helped with three of the bolts, and then after we got done he led the first pitch of the climb on new shiny stainless steel.

 

It is climbing time in Darrington. See you there!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Almost all Darrington climbs require 2 ropes for the rappel. Many are largely bolt-protected but you need to carry a rack and know how to use it. 'Till Broad Daylight uses a few cams - a set of one each up to 2" will be overkill - but you'll use maybe ten draws. Bring a camera. This place is beautiful.

 

Approach Notes:

Drive up newly repaired Clear Creek logging road. Walk 30 minutes up the trail. When the trail leaves the forest to cross an old boulder field, look for a climbers' trail up and left toward the South Buttress and the Great Arch area or go straight ahead toward the North Buttress. You are there.

[Rainman]

It's good somebody isn't selfish like the rest of us that just went climbing on Saturday. Good job Matt, Mark & Danny. I'm glad the DEA is still working. I was ready to give a hand on Sunday but you guys did it all and nothing was left. Darn, missed the work party again. Oh well, the road and trails are ready for business. Let the climbing begin!

[mountainsloth]

I was out there on Sunday and climbed Penny Lane on the North Butt. good times and no rain! Thanks for the re-bolting Matt, Mark and Danny. Till Broad was my first route at Darrington and was quite nervous to fall on those bolts.

Edited May 29, 2012 by mountainsloth

[farflung]

Thanks for your hard work guys. Can't wait to get out there!

[Val Zephyr]

This was a great intro to Darrington slab for me a couple years ago and will be an even better intro for others now that those old bolts have been replaced. Thanks!

[Otto]

Nice work you guys! Setting up for a solo climb is exciting, but I love that, "He traded me for a blueberry bush"! Even better! It's good to have a partner on a beautiful day for climbing. Thanks for doing the re-work.

[BootsandPants]

Very cool! Had plans to head out there this past weekend but bailed last minute for Ltown instead due to the unfavorable forecast. Wish we would have stuck to our guns. Thanks for giving that route some needed love!

[hanman]

Nice tr Matt-

 

Great to be out in Dtown again. Daylight has been on the short list for quite a while, glad we got the first 2 fixed up.

 

Thanks again for saving me from the ubiquitous darrington blueberry self belay!

 

mh

[Riley81]

Gotta love the blueberry snatch anchor.

[chirp]

Outstanding! I am hoping to get out there next week. Looks like ya'll had a great trip and thanks for the service work on the route.

I do remember the belay at the base of the crux pitch was also a bit manky. If no one has touched it I might bring some gear and clean it up.

Cheers

[mattp]

Hey chirp!

 

I'd love to climb there with you. Or anywhere, for that matter.

 

And what do you mean by the "crux pitch?" On that particular route there are two "half" pitches that I have not climbed for years, a leftward traverse and a vertical pitch that rejoins "The Kone," and were pitches 4 and 5 by my count. I don't think any bolts on either of these have been replaced.

 

Matt

[chirp]

Hey Matt!

This summer we should connect, I have a wacky midweek off schedule that sadly does not allow for much climbing time since most folks are weekenders. We can PM data for times/windows.

 

Yeah the short traverse pitch to the base of the long pitch that intercepts the Kone, the belay at the end of the traverse is dubious rusty button heads and tat, the only real mank on the route that I noticed.

Either way the place rocks! I just wish it wasn't so far from Tacoma

Cheers!

 

[yasso1am]

Whats the word (meaning ethic, acceptableness, etc.) of re-bolting or equipping new routes/additional pitches to existing routes? I would really be interested in investing some time and effort into Darrington, but don't want to rock any boats. I would love to be able to do this in the same ethic that is currently being used.

 

Any information helps, thanks!

[Off_White]

I'm certain bolt replacement (as compared to additions) done well will earn you slaps on the back and kudos all around.

 

You might want to run route extensions by one of the old hands like Mark Hanna, David Whitelaw, or Matt Perkins to make sure someone hasn't already trod that ground.

[yasso1am]

Thanks Off White, I believe I sent Matt an email, but I'll look up the other guys too.

[mattp]

I don't have that e-mail but in general bolt replacement is a good thing unless the other guy put the bolt in a stupid place to begin with. New routing or other additions have traditionally been thought generally OK but here too the bolt you place may be subject to criticism and the best rule of thumb I can offer is this: (1) don't add or replace bolts unless you have climbed for at least a couple of years in several different areas so you have experience with a variety of styles; (2) proceed with caution; and (3) use removable bolts if you can. That's three rules and there is a lot of how to information on the web.

 

Hand drill at 3:00 Rock..

 

[yasso1am]

Thanks matt. Pm sent with the original email.

[Tyson.g]

I am curious as to what others feel about removable bolts in the Darrington setting.

On the open slabs I often find myself using the bolts as a roadmap of sorts while ascending a route that I am unfamiliar with.

I am uncertain about the ability to spot an open bolt hole while on the vastness of the d-town glory.

 

Thoughts?

[mattp]

By "removable" I meant 5-piece or Hilti coil or something else that can be removed without using wedges and a crowbar. I do not advocate the bolt hole hardware that was marketed as a removable bolt some years back because the subsequent climber will not be able to find the hole. I once drilled a hole, and went back six months later to stand on the very same footholds from where I drilled it and it still took 20 minutes to find the hole.