Stove in Rainier Summit Pack?

[ADKMan]

I know that conventional wisdom and the most conservative approach would have you pack a stove, pot and fuel in your summit pack but I am curious how many actually do that on Rainier? For those that don't pack a stove how much water do you generally bring? I would assume that 2 liters (the most I usually like to carry) won't be adequate for summit day.

 

Thanks again for your collective and infinite wisdom!

[DPS]

I'm sure plenty of folks will disagree but...I drink a couple of liters of water when I roll into camp, drink water throughout the night, and drink a liter in the morning before I leave for the summit. On the summit push I carry two liters of water and no stove, although this can change given time of year and the experience of my partners.

Edited April 10, 2012 by DPS

[jordansahls]

It depends on what route and what time of year you are climbing. I climbed the Kautz last July and did not bring a stove because there was running water at the 9500 camp. Instead I brought a water filter. This method has worked for me on a couple of different routes on other mountains like Baker and Adams. Still, I find this approach only works later in the climbing season.

 

I carry no more than 2 liters at time. Usually this is enough on summit day. However, I spend most of the time at camp re-hydrating. If you are heading up sometime in the late spring/early summer you are better off bringing a stove. Hauling enough water from the car is going to weight infinity more than a stove and some fuel.

[CaleHoopes]

Yeah, never needed more than 2 liters for summit and back to camp. I guess it's different for everyone, but I haven't had a stove on summit crawls.

[hakioawa]

Seems about right to me. Though with a lightweight canister stove and 4oz. of fuel are a great option in a pinch.

[selkirk]

Only been up it once, but I chugged water in camp before we left, carried 3 L, and didn't take a stove. Probably drank 1L on the way up 1/2 L at the summit, 1/2 L on the way down and hit camp with extra water.

 

For the DC / Emmons where there is a hoard of people, and it's relatively easy to retreat it seems like a stove would not be a necessity. Just watch the conditions and turn around well before there's a risk of getting stranded, but the same is true if you have a stove.

 

At most maybe 1x stove for a party of 3?

 

If you're coming up a more committing route, totally different story.

 

 

 

 

[ADKMan]

Trip specs:

 

2 person team

Mid July

Emmons Route

 

We will have a stove at Camp Schurman

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

I take 3 liters. One is gone within an hour or so as I drink the water diligently (almost forced) when heading out from camp.

 

I've taken 2 liters + stove before, but it was on Adams/Adams glacier. We brought a JetBoil that time and melted water on the summit which was nice (1 liter per person)

 

 

[jordansahls]

Ha ha, my reading comprehension skills suck.

 

I have never carried a stove in a summit pack on Rainier (carry over routes excluded). Assuming that you hydrate at camp before summit day, 2 liters should be enough. It has always been enough for me, but everyone is different. If you sweat like crazy or tend to get extra thirsty, or if you just want to be safe, it's not going to add much weight to bring a small stove and a little fuel.

[dougd]

This being your first time on Rainier, and, a cursory examination of your previous inquiries here indicate that you guys will be very conservative in your approach to this climb. That's smart. A lot of the folks here have more experience than me on this mountain. I've done three routes on Rainier and not once carried a stove on summit day. The reason for this is my aversion to climbing into bad weather or bad forecasted weather. Oh, I've done it, but try real hard through proper preparation to avoid getting stuck in a hole waiting out systems etc... That gets back to the shovel question too I think. If there's any chance you guys may have to hole up for any reason, by all means have a shovel and a stove et al in your team's summit packs somewhere...

 

Relatively inexperienced folks climbing into questionable weather is one thing, maybe you or your partner gets sick and there's no help around, or some shit like that. There could be other reasons for digging in so...

 

How much water to carry is a personal thing. I carry two liters on summit day. I run short sometimes like on the c2c on Shuksan last year. 13 hr day. Shoulda had another liter, but I made it ok... When arriving back at Camp Schurman after a summit day last June I was pretty thirsty, and went to brewing water asap for my partner and me. It worked... I train in all weathers and go hungry and thirsty during training too so I try to condition myself physically and mentally for what mountains can throw at you... They can be harsh...

 

FYI I melt the snow then filter into the bottles, saves time and fuel.

 

d

[ScaredSilly]

I am a complete Rainier noob. In a dozen or so trips, the majority of the time I just take everything with me, the stove, the fuel, the tent, my sleeping bag, all my food, plus a 1.5 liters of water, not too mention all my garbage. I hump that crap up one side of the mountain and down the other damn side every time. My partner never helps outs. Okay well sometimes he takes the stove and fuel, but I will be damned if he will take the tent. Now being his in 60s and all I think he is just being selfish not to carry more. So if I were you make yer partner think ya gotta have all that crap and get them to carry it. In the mean time just hydrate well and take 1.5-2 liters.

[ADKMan]

Sounds like we should be fine with 2 liters or 3 max with no stove on summit day. I'm sure we will make conservative decisions relative to weather conditions so it's unlikely we will get pinned down unless someone gets hurt or in the event of a crevasse fall.

[obwan]

My vote is 2 ltr minimum - 3 ltr max, no stove. Just don't depend on "bladders" - they are to unreliable, as the hoses freeze up plus the chance of leaking ( although they are convenient on the hike up to basecamp, easier to hydrate more often,etc. (but not as critical if there is any failure).

With the altitude and exertion required, the usage is about one pint per hour. Based on that formula, you are pretty dry when you get back - so the idea of hydrating a lot before and after is the key; then you won't be so f'd up getting back in the car.

[keenwesh]

bladders are fine, just be sure to blow back into the main chamber after every hydration suck.

 

ohh this is post number 666, take my advice with your soul, after you sell it to the devil.

[rob]

bladders are fine, just be sure to blow back into the main chamber after every hydration suck

 

Just don't blow too much in, or you'll end up inflating your bladder which is no big deal but I find it awkward with a full pack

[keenwesh]

Just don't blow too much in, or you'll end up inflating your bladder which is no big deal but I find it awkward with a full pack

 

I always use a catheter on summit pushes, piss stops are just so inconvenient...

[B Deleted_Beck]

I've been a big defender of bladders... but after my last trip, I think I might finally be convinced to try something else. I dropped ruck to put on my down and change my gloves, and by the time I was all put back together and ready to re-sling the pack, I noticed all.... ALL..... of my Gatorade was soaked into the snow. Bite valve had come off, somehow, somewhere, never to be seen again.

 

Was a very, very thirsty climb, friends.

[Water]

Ben you are probably good to go with your bladder for the rest of the spring/summer in oregon. 10deg seems a lot colder than normal for 8 er 9am up on the hogs this time of year.

 

anyways i did my part with the heated gatorade that seemed to have lost all the goodness of its flavor. just give me a heads up on what you need up there next time and I will hopefully be of service.*

 

*like any good offer, this does not include skis, ski boots, bindings, GPS, or gift cards. limited to stock on hand.

[DPS]

My frist bladder broke the first time I used it. Years later I bought another one w/out a hose and it has worked without failure for years.

 

I dislike the hose because it adds another failure point (breakage, freezing, leakage) and adds weight. I use one 1-liter bladder for weight savings and one Nalgene for foolproofness and to use as a mug, furhter reducing weight because it obviates the need for a separate mug.

[rob]

I had a bladder come apart once on Baker because I put hot water in it (from the stove). I guess you're not supposed to do that? It came apart in my sleeping bag, where I had put it by my feet to keep me warm.

 

That was a really cold night.

[B Deleted_Beck]

I had a bladder come apart once on Baker because I put hot water in it (from the stove). I guess you're not supposed to do that? It came apart in my sleeping bag, where I had put it by my feet to keep me warm.

 

That was a really cold night.

 

I've always put hot water in mine... sometimes REALLY hot. But I think bladders are not all created equally. I've had mine for about 12 years- original soft/stretchy blue camelbak bladder with the black rubber valve that came in a HAWG I bought in '00. I don't think they make 'em like that anymore.. everything I've seen in REI/homey's pouches has been some crinkly clear plastic shit

[ScaredSilly]

If ya a bad bladder try Depends other wise get a real water bottle.

[Buckaroo]

I would take 2 liters each and one stove for the party. You can split the weight, stove and fuel. You're not taking sleeping bag or tent on summit day so you won't notice the weight.

 

On a mountain this big I think a stove is one of the 10 essentials even though I don't really have a list like that. There's just too much that can go wrong causing you to get pinned down. Water is the first thing you run out of, and you can't live long without it.