Retro- cleaned route at exit 32

[Frankazoid]

Just wanted to share that the route "yo baby" in the woods section at little si has been thoroughly re-cleaned, and is ready to lead once again!

 

Yo baby is a 5.11-somethin' to the right of goldrush.

apprx. 95' and 10 bolts. As of right now it is dry. After it rains I would give it 1 full day of warm weather to dry out.

[Rad]

Thanks Frank. The book calls it 11d. Is it as good as it looks?

 

[Frankazoid]

Well, im sure it is... After sitting in my harness scrubbing for 6 straight hours, I was no longer in the mood to give it a rope solo. It looks like a lot of fun (wouldn't have cleaned otherwise). There is quite a big span between bolts 3/4 of the way up, so i'd like to TR it before leading.

[orion_sonya]

That is a great route. Isn't there a large ramp/ledge where the bolts space out?

 

[Frankazoid]

There is a steep ramp that goes to a ledge where you can rest before the last 20 or so feet. There is a bolt before the ramp, and the next is a couple moves away on the face above the ledge.

The climbing does look easier, yes. Still would like to know that I have that section wired prior.

And not to mention that the rest of the route is on the sporty side too

[orion_sonya]

The more I think about it the more I remember a little excitement on the top...

 

Good on ya for scrubbin - thanks!

[Frankazoid]

Exactly. After I cilmb yo baby i'll start cleaning "mo clips 12a" next to it. Have you (orion) been on it? Would be cool if people were able get on these routes again. I think the woods area is just a cool place in general.

[Rad]

Yep. Some great routes in the woods are rarely climbed.

 

Two examples:

Lay of the Land.

Goldrush.

 

Digitalis and the climb just right of it could probably use some cleaning too.

[Frankazoid]

Digitalis is on the cleaning list too

[Jens]

Back in the early sport climbing days of 32, the first woods routes were as popular as the early world wall routes.

[Frankazoid]

well it's time for a resurrection then

[Raindawg]

Well, im sure it is... After sitting in my harness scrubbing for 6 straight hours, I was no longer in the mood to give it a rope solo. It looks like a lot of fun (wouldn't have cleaned otherwise). There is quite a big span between bolts 3/4 of the way up, so i'd like to TR it before leading.

 

A great example as to why some of us despise sport "cimbing".

[Frankazoid]

Raindawg, aside from this reply, I (and hopefully others) will just pretend your post does not exist. You should try putting a smile on your face every now and then. It would be great to have a dialogue with you if you posted something worthwile.

[KirkW]

 

A great example as to why some of us despise sport "cimbing".

 

Awesome. I've been waiting for another lengthy diatribe from you. I really enjoy them.

 

What do I need to say to really set you off? Let's just pretend it's all ready been said and you can just go ahead and commence with playing your broken record while jumping up and down on a dead horse.

[Frankazoid]

Kirk,

 

your post is appriciated, but seriously... we just need to fully ignore Raindawgs comments at this point. Lets find out how much he likes talking to himself. Iv'e been guilty myself of spray outside of the spray forum, and would like to change that from here on. Lets make the non spray sections a little more tolerable and enjoyable to read, eh?

 

for example... Raindawg if you want to make a comment such as the one you did above, you could just go to the spray section, start a new thread and call it "exit 32 sport whiner frankazoid" and then proceed with spray. That would be cool, and totally legit.

[mountainsloth]

thanks for the work Frank. The woods and midland are always crowd free and alluring. too bad they always seem to be wet when I am there.

 

[Frankazoid]

they dry out quite quickly when its warm out

[RuMR]

Well, im sure it is... After sitting in my harness scrubbing for 6 straight hours, I was no longer in the mood to give it a rope solo. It looks like a lot of fun (wouldn't have cleaned otherwise). There is quite a big span between bolts 3/4 of the way up, so i'd like to TR it before leading.

 

A great example as to why some of us despise sport "cimbing".

fuckoff tool...why did you even look in this thread? I despise your elitist attitude...

 

[genepires]

Well, im sure it is... After sitting in my harness scrubbing for 6 straight hours, I was no longer in the mood to give it a rope solo. It looks like a lot of fun (wouldn't have cleaned otherwise). There is quite a big span between bolts 3/4 of the way up, so i'd like to TR it before leading.

 

A great example as to why some of us despise sport "cimbing".

fuckoff tool...why did you even look in this thread? I despise your elitist attitude...

 

can't we all just get along like kids in kindergarten? We need some adult supervision here.

 

 

[jibby]

Is the 12a to the right of the 5.9 mixed on the list? Just curious, it has a very fun line of crimps on it and was quite enjoyable when i did it a couple years ago. sorry, i forgot the name.

[lancegranite]

Good job reclaiming the old routes from the munge.

Our crags need upkeep and it feels good to get out and do the dirty work.

[Frankazoid]

Is the 12a to the right of the 5.9 mixed on the list? Just curious, it has a very fun line of crimps on it and was quite enjoyable when i did it a couple years ago. sorry, i forgot the name.

 

Are you talking about the 12 to the right of bioclamtic quandary (5.9) ?

If your asking if it will be cleaned, then most likely. Theres a lot of scrubbin to do in the area... wire brushes are cheap if you feel inclined

[Frankazoid]

bump.

 

 

I would be interested to know if anyone gets on this.

I went and climbed it the other day and encountered the fun 11d technical crux which goes from the 2nd to 4th bolt (as others have said. I was surprised to find that from the last bolt to the anchor it was even harder- way harder. The folks ive spoken to seemed to remember the top being much easier than the lower crux. It appears maybe a hold broke off up high, making it harder to reach the anchors now?

 

I know im just rambling about some sport route maybe nobody cares about, but if you go- I wanna know what you think!