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Posted

Dragontail N and NW faces are every bit a grade IV in the winter. Stretch TC's two technical pitches up for an extra 1500 feet, and you get something more like the cotter/bebie or gerber/sink.

 

 

 

 

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Posted

Okay - against my better judgment, I'll bite.

 

Bucketz, are you suggesting that you can extrapolate based on one route what the technical difficulties are on another route?

 

If your intention is to be abrasive and insulting - you've succeeded (telling them they're slow, being sarcastic with the "good boy", basically your entire condescending post).

 

If your intention is to be the watchdog of grade inflation - I admire that intention but it goes a lot further if you don't do so in such a condescending manner, and have some facts or experience to back up your contention (other than just spray). For example, if you've climbed the route that you're talking about - say so. If not...why do you think you know more about it than someone who just did so?

 

In either case, NICE WORK to Kurt and Rodney for succeeding on a proud line in the alpine! :brew:

Posted

I'll throw my last two cents in on this. The Cotter-Bebie is a great route on a great peak that doesn't have very much published beta for it (online or in print), hence the trip report. I decided to give it a rating since it would help provide information for those interested in the climb and, I hope, to psych up those who want to give it a try. It's a worthwhile route up a fantastic mountain regardless of whatever it's rated.

Posted

Sooo happy to see a great TR degenerate into a tedious pissing match over grades.

 

Kurt "wins" because he climbed it and the peanut gallery sat on our collective arses.

Posted

Nice climbing AND nice trip report. Your beautiful photos made me wish I were a better ice/mixed climber, so that I, too, could experience what you did. Lucky ducks! Keep up with the inspiring posts, thanks!

Posted
Nice climbing AND nice trip report. Your beautiful photos made me wish I were a better ice/mixed climber, so that I, too, could experience what you did. Lucky ducks! Keep up with the inspiring posts, thanks!

 

Hells ya boys. HELLS ya.

Wish wish wish I could throw myself at something like that and not die... if not from lack of skill, but from fear.

In my next life maybe.

The stoke here is PHAT!! :rocken:

Posted

Generaly I believe you must add 1 more grade level in winter do to longer aproaches, less help available, more storms, less daylight, harder rock climbing, ect.. [exmpl= north face index grd III+ in summer grd IV+ in winter/ stuarts complete n ridge IV in summer V in winter]

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