World Wall 1

[EthanH]

Anyone know how dry it is/how bad it's seeping?

 

In perticular the far climber left by "the bad guy".

 

 

Thanks =)

[bigwallben]

I'm not sure where 'the bad guy' is, but I hear people are sending routes left and right out there. It is so steep, seeping holds could never be an issue.

[Rad]

Bad Guy is under the big roof right of Dairy Freeze and left of Megatherion.

 

It might be dry under that roof, but the scramble to get there will be sopping wet so be careful.

[keenwesh]

might be nippy up there...

[Frankazoid]

hmm.. im guessing lots of wet climbs. not to mention finger numbing stone. I'm stoked to get on megatherion, after hearing my friend rant and rave about it earlier this summer. we need some warm air and wind to dry it out for a coupla days.

[Drederek]

Its been years since I've gone out there regularly in the winter but as long as its 45 or above and the wind isn't blowing too hard theres plenty of stuff to climb there even when its raining. There will be wet spots and drips but you should be able to get past most of them on the steeper stuff.

[boadman]

The top of megatherion will be soaked.

 

The only "climable" routes will probably be Abo & the stuff off of Chronic. Maybe the two routes to the left of megatherion.

 

Has anybody checked out the quasi newish/rediscoverd cave at 38 this time of year?

[Rad]

[

 

 

Edited December 12, 2010 by Rad

[orion_sonya]

Has anybody checked out the quasi newish/rediscoverd cave at 38 this time of year?

 

M,

 

You should get a hold of Josh.

 

O

[Frankazoid]

Ahhh the cave.. you must be speaking of the big cave on mt. washington way above____.... theres another smaller cave before that one too. Those guys might still have some tools lying around, that could get ripped off if people start checking it out. Maybe get the ok from Josh and the other folks who have been trundling and bolting up there before talking about it much more... theft has been a problem unfortunetly at developing crags.

Also that cave seeps and would not be great at all right now. The lip of the cave tends to have its own mini waterfall around this time of year.

 

the smaller cave prior to that one, features some old projects form cp little and is dubbed the "negative cave" cause the roof actually slopes downward as it climbs out.

Edited December 12, 2010 by Frankazoid

[bigwallben]

I recommend Vantage this time of year. They also call it Frenchman's Coulee I believe. There are some solid handholds if you are willing to hang on tight and dig around a little bit.

[Frankazoid]

I recommend Vantage this time of year. They also call it Frenchman's Coulee I believe. There are some solid handholds if you are willing to hang on tight and dig around a little bit.

 

I'd just recommend not climbing.

 

All these walls we speak of are slowly but steadily eroding and crumbling down. Yes, even world wall. Hey I know I wouldn't want to be squashed by the unexpected event of, say, an entire wall collapsing on me at once. With that said- finding a new sport will be key. Parkour is a great challenging activity that enables you to still be in nature and have interactions with the stone, while signifigantly decreasing the risk of being squashed by any one particular rock since you are moving about so quickly from stone to stone. Combined with the lost art of jump roping (add multiple ropes to increase difficulty), you are still well on your way to reaching your extreme fitness goals.

 

 

[bigwallben]

Yes Frank, I couldn't agree more. However, there isn't anything quite like strapping on nylon and sticky rubber, throwing clouds of chalk into the air, and unleashing the inner monkey. I believe that Parkour would be quite suited to Vantage. I've heard of the "feathers" area. Yes, I think that Parkour in the Feathers could be the next great thing.

[olyclimber]

Imma bring mah crew and check ur neu crag!

[Frankazoid]

Well yes thats right Ben. Not only would it be the next great thing- It already is.

 

You see ive been a part of the FPPA (Feathers Parkour Park Association) for 2 years now, and along with the already extreme boulder hopping below the "climbing" (lame) area we have been developing a traverse of the multiple "towers" that makes up the "Feathers". Once completed it will incorporate flips, leaps and hops across the entire top of the Feathers. Lets just say the future holds great things.

 

 

 

[bigwallben]

Frank,

 

I look forward to youtube video.

 

Ben

[Rad]

Hey Ben,

What's your blog or website link? We want to follow your world tour and imagine ourselves crimping down with your super-human strength and spirit on dry stone somewhere other than Wet Washington.

cheers

RAd

[bigwallben]

Rad,

 

Well, the weather hasn't been so rad lately here in Tennessee. But, sunshine is on the horizon and the troops have raised their chins a degree or two.

 

Please knock yourself out,

 

www.bengilkison.blogspot.com

 

 

[Frankazoid]

Good stuff.. just checked out your blog, Ben. I see you met with Pete and Lidija! Pete was super fun to climb with. Lidija is just plain- hillarious! I was there for a month, and just missed ya I guess. Starting to wonder why I bought a plane ticket back to Seattle. Have a good holiday season!

[Rad]

www.bengilkison.blogspot.com

 

 

Cool. I love mind over matter stories like your 14a redpoint. Finding that headspace where everything flows is truly magical. I found it for my own project redpoints this year, albeit many many grades below yours. It's one of the reasons I've been hooked on climbing for 20 years and hope to be hooked for another 20.

 

Hopefully lots of people will read your blog and you'll get the sponsorships you need to live your dream.

cheers,

Rad

[Frankazoid]

Ben,

Since the subject of this thread was originally world wall- I have a beta question for you.

 

What the hell is the short person beta for the first move into Techno from the anchor-clipping jug on Abo? If you know how to describe it that would be swell, and much appriciated.

 

-Frank

[RuMR]

i know the short person beta...

 

climb to the right via a credit card hold (people actually use this as a foothold later). Grab with your left hand the jug that taller folks toss to with their right hand. Match this, and proceed to climb the rest of the route...

 

Rudy

[orion_sonya]

if you are taller than 5'6" or so and not a girl, just do the big move.

 

Rudy's beta is spot on for the midgets though :kisss:

[bigwallben]

i know the short person beta...

 

climb to the right via a credit card hold (people actually use this as a foothold later). Grab with your left hand the jug that taller folks toss to with their right hand. Match this, and proceed to climb the rest of the route...

 

Rudy

 

Actually, by utilizing said credit card, you may be accruing cartilaginous debt; which no doubt, your body will demand repayment for later in life. Keep yourself pliant by...(and this only applies to those bonafide shorties...sub 5'2; sorry Rudy)

 

From abo Jug lock off and high step triangular chip right foot, right hand gaston small pinch (doesn't look like hold), left foot up in crack to left, now cross left hand up to crimp (which most 'average' height people have already grabbed with right hand from abo jug), now right hand out right to smaller crimp, left hand flip into sidepull, shuffle feet high (on abo jug) bring right hand to match just above left which is still in sidepull, reach up and left to next sidepull, now left foot real high up and left to an obvious slabby foot hold, now bump up left foot to nasty little toothy rubber smeared crimp, right hand up and right, right foot up high (near waist), left leg flag (to right), left hand up and left to jug gaston, now clip.

 

Don't you just hate run on sentences?

 

Of course, this entire sequence brings the grade down from v5 to v2.

 

Good luck! And just remember that 5' 8" is average. And, short is relative.

 

 

Edited December 17, 2010 by bigwallben

[bigwallben]

Oops, hope I didn't blow your onsight.

 

Sincerely,

 

Ben