genepires Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 side note.....Bens blog is great! Super photography and some of the best climber writing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankazoid Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 (edited) Oops, hope I didn't blow your onsight. Sincerely, Ben Lol... Well I've gotten on it once before so no worries. Thanks for the high detail beta, Ben. Looking foward to the next go when we get a 48-50° day. Also- beta descriptions fully warrant run-on sentences. -Frank Edited December 18, 2010 by Frankazoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 (edited) sid] side note.....Bens blog is great! Super photography and some of the best climber writing. I'm frankly flattered Thanks to all who have found time to check out our travels. BTW: it is sunny and looking real nice in Chattanooga! T wall? Edited December 18, 2010 by bigwallben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 i know the short person beta... climb to the right via a credit card hold (people actually use this as a foothold later). Grab with your left hand the jug that taller folks toss to with their right hand. Match this, and proceed to climb the rest of the route... Rudy Actually, by utilizing said credit card, you may be accruing cartilaginous debt; which no doubt, your body will demand repayment for later in life. Keep yourself pliant by...(and this only applies to those bonafide shorties...sub 5'2; sorry Rudy) From abo Jug lock off and high step triangular chip right foot, right hand gaston small pinch (doesn't look like hold), left foot up in crack to left, now cross left hand up to crimp (which most 'average' height people have already grabbed with right hand from abo jug), now right hand out right to smaller crimp, left hand flip into sidepull, shuffle feet high (on abo jug) bring right hand to match just above left which is still in sidepull, reach up and left to next sidepull, now left foot real high up and left to an obvious slabby foot hold, now bump up left foot to nasty little toothy rubber smeared crimp, right hand up and right, right foot up high (near waist), left leg flag (to right), left hand up and left to jug gaston, now clip. Don't you just hate run on sentences? Of course, this entire sequence brings the grade down from v5 to v2. Good luck! And just remember that 5' 8" is average. And, short is relative. ... oh that's hilarious...that's drew's exact beta and he stands a whopping 4'-4" tall!!! hahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 PS: Drew's been following your blog all along...he says PROPS on Proper Soul BTW!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 i know the short person beta... climb to the right via a credit card hold (people actually use this as a foothold later). Grab with your left hand the jug that taller folks toss to with their right hand. Match this, and proceed to climb the rest of the route... Rudy Actually, by utilizing said credit card, you may be accruing cartilaginous debt; which no doubt, your body will demand repayment for later in life. Keep yourself pliant by...(and this only applies to those bonafide shorties...sub 5'2; sorry Rudy) From abo Jug lock off and high step triangular chip right foot, right hand gaston small pinch (doesn't look like hold), left foot up in crack to left, now cross left hand up to crimp (which most 'average' height people have already grabbed with right hand from abo jug), now right hand out right to smaller crimp, left hand flip into sidepull, shuffle feet high (on abo jug) bring right hand to match just above left which is still in sidepull, reach up and left to next sidepull, now left foot real high up and left to an obvious slabby foot hold, now bump up left foot to nasty little toothy rubber smeared crimp, right hand up and right, right foot up high (near waist), left leg flag (to right), left hand up and left to jug gaston, now clip. Don't you just hate run on sentences? Of course, this entire sequence brings the grade down from v5 to v2. Good luck! And just remember that 5' 8" is average. And, short is relative. ... oh that's hilarious...that's drew's exact beta and he stands a whopping 4'-4" tall!!! hahahaha I'm closer to Drew's height than to 5'9". So, this makes perfect sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 It was actually nearly bone dry out there yesterday, although it was pissing down rain most of the day so who knows how it is now. Even propaganda was mostly climbable, just a few wet holds at the top of the streak. Cold though, very chilly on the finger tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.