HEXES

[mzvarner]

what are your ideas about alpine climbing in the cascades with them. Seems like it is a good way to double up on cams and save weight. Not to mention cheaper to bail off of if the need comes up.

 

And what are the pros and cons of each brand

[Coldfinger]

Got the DMM Torque nuts, very nice. Gotta say for any kind of icy crack I'd take a hex every time over a cam, especially as one can pound them in, besides for alpine one always has to think of BAILING and I'd rather leave a nut!

[DPS]

I have for years taken along a set of the four largest BD hexes in addition to cams. On some alpine climbs I have taken just the hexes which worked very well.

[Jens]

We know when we are climbing up on mounties by the sound of their hexes clanging. We call em' mountaineers org bear bells.

[Alex]

I never use them, but I only climb 5.10 and lower in the alpine so usually climb through.

[johndavidjr]

Item on British Mountaineering Council Web site suggests they are superior to cams in iced cracks.

 

I used a borrowed hex only once on (summery) lead, and was very glad to have it.

 

Cheap too. Like Wal-Mart pup-tent, very effective in correct circumstance.

[chirp]

Item on British Mountaineering Council Web site suggests they are superior to cams in iced cracks.

 

I used a borrowed hex only once on (summery) lead, and was very glad to have it.

 

Cheap too. Like Wal-Mart pup-tent, very effective in correct circumstance.

 

[Syndicate]

They are cheap and you can beat them into snowy/icy/muddy cracks.

Plus they are light.

 

I have a set of DMM torque nuts that are unquestionably the best hexes on the market. Aside from the extendable sling, the shape is awesome and they are well sized.

 

The disadvantage of slung hexes vs stiff things like wired nuts or cams is that they are difficult to set at arm's length. However, I set most of my passive pro at chest height, so no big deal.

 

The extendable sling is great and just the right length. I have never clipped a draw into these hexes

[NateF]

Useful exactly where cams aren't. Can be very secure in placements where a cam is at risk of walking & getting tipped out. Good supplement or replacement for bigger cams unless you need the big gear for splitter/parallel-sided/minimally featured crack. Probably more useful on blocky choss route than at Washington Pass.

[tomtom]

And if you climb at Tieton, bring a set or two.

[selkirk]

I always climb with the top 3 Wild Country curve hexes, and have placed them on everything up to overhanging 10a's. IMHO good hex placements are very confidence inspiring! For alpine I'm partial to them as I find them more flexible than cams in many ways. Good for all those odd pods, converging cracks, endless splitter's like outer space.

 

[JoshK]

IMHO good hex placements are very confidence inspiring! For alpine I'm partial to them as I find them more flexible than cams in many ways.

 

Yeah, when you get one of those big cowbell hexes wedged in a solidnplacement, it gives a good vibe.

[Off_White]

I like the curved Metolius hexes, very light too. The three smallest old Chouinard wired hexes have a permanent place on my rack.

[denalidave]

 

Hexes r so sexy!

[NateF]

And if you climb at Tieton, bring a set or two.

totally!