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Bronco

Cascade "hardman" list of peaks/routes?

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I really enjoyed this summer’s edition of the NWMJ and it inspired me to update my list of objectives. It also reminded me of rumors of a list of “cascade hard man” mountains like Johannesburg, Index N. Peak (or the full traverse?) and Nooksack Tower :noway:.

 

Any others?

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I read somewhere about a list of peaks that Dallas Kloke considers the most difficult to climb in the state of Washington (and he ought to know). I don't have it written down but I think it went something like this (in no particular order):

 

Inspiration

Burgundy Spire

SE Mox

S Hozomeen

Middle Index

Johannesberg

Lincoln Peak

Nooksack Tower

West Fury

Bear

 

Don't quote me on these - a Google search turns up nothing. I'm fairly confident on the first 8. I think I'd have to replace SE Mox with Lemolo and Lincoln with Assassin, but other than that, I think it's a pretty accurate list.

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I read somewhere about a list of peaks that Dallas Kloke considers the most difficult to climb in the state of Washington (and he ought to know). I don't have it written down but I think it went something like this (in no particular order):

 

Inspiration

Burgundy Spire

SE Mox

S Hozomeen

Middle Index

Johannesberg

Lincoln Peak

Nooksack Tower

West Fury

Bear

 

Don't quote me on these - a Google search turns up nothing. I'm fairly confident on the first 8. I think I'd have to replace SE Mox with Lemolo and Lincoln with Assassin, but other than that, I think it's a pretty accurate list.

 

not sure many peaks can be considered hardman peaks. Burgundy might be technically challenging by it's easiest route, but is still only 5.8 and thus probably not hard man. Similar with inspiration.

 

Blake's list has some good ideas (http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2009/08/unpublished-routes-modern-classics.html)

 

add to Blakes list the handful of hard routes in Nelson/Potterfield, and you probably have a good start. Maybe add in the danger routes like Willis Wall.

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Trogdor, thanks for the link to Blake's list. I think Tom/Dallas' list is more in line with what I was looking for, the most difficult peaks to summit by their easiset route.

 

Not looking for the most difficult (or dangerous) routes per say.

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Burgundy Spire is kind of an outlier in Dallas' list. Everything else on his list seems like significantly more work than Burgundy, which involves a downright easy approach (albeit with lots of vertical), and a straightforward climb and descent.

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except for Bear a pretty difficult looking list.

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I'd be interest to hear how Tom ranks this list. Which ones are hardest. He's probably done them all. Havbe you climbed burgundy Tom?

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Reality check time...the "hardman" aspect of these climbs is a thing of the past. Us wimps with the benefit of 21st century gear, an internet full of beta, established approaches, popularized objectives, GPS, cell phones, etc. shouldn't compare our exploits to those who did these climbs when they actually required being a "hardman."

 

I think it was Ivan that coined the term "blue-collar trifecta" to describe J-berg, Nooksack tower, and the Index traverse. I think that is a fitting description.

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I think it was Ivan that coined the term "blue-collar trifecta" to describe J-berg, Nooksack tower, and the Index traverse. I think that is a fitting description.

 

I would second that Trifecta.

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and then there are the hardest traverses - stuart range as/per croft - southern pickets - northern pickets - silverstar/wine - and original ptarmigan(still unrepeated after 60+ years).

Edited by pms

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I'd be interest to hear how Tom ranks this list. Which ones are hardest. He's probably done them all. Havbe you climbed burgundy Tom?

 

That would be interesting, how about you Jim? You must've climbed most or all of them-

 

I agree that this list is a bit outdated considering modern standards but these are still pretty respectable goals for a weekend warrior.

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sorry bronc, I've only done 5, 4 when you take off bear.

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Hey do you have info on that original ptarmigan traverse? It's unrepeated?

 

I noticed these routes do have a lot in common. lincoln, nookie, and index are all falling apart. Loose rock is scary. I suppose this is why 5.8-ish routes clean people's clocks some times.

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It's unrepeated in terms of people climbing the same peaks on the same schedule as the original party, who were doing FA's along the way, without the benefit of route descriptions, etc.

 

Those guys were the ultimate PNW bad-asses, in my opinion.

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