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[TR] Chimney Rock - East Face Direct 7/17/2010

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Trip: Chimney Rock - East Face Direct


Date: 7/17/2010


Trip Report:

I'm getting soft, no two ways about it. Armed with Klenke's excellent annotated photos and description (search TRs), Chris and I marched in there this past weekend and were humbled a bit. 4th and low to mid-5th? Psssssht, no problem.


While it isn't very difficult, I found the dirty, compact rock less than enjoyable at times, with some fairly long run-outs on 5th class terrain. It didn't help that the moat and snow patches gave us trouble with wetness and access issues. Did I mention that I'm soft? The last 300-400 hundred feet of the face is pretty fun, and has better pro. Bring a fair bit of webbing as this doesn't get climbed much and the stations need some maintenance. We beefed up some, but ran out of webbing (used 30')- I think we did 8-10 raps with a 60m rope and scrambled a bit between. I've wondered for years how Mr. Potterfield ran into trouble on this face, now I understand. It's "easy", but it could also easily ruin your day.


OK, enough whining, here are some photos- it is a beautiful, off-the-beaten track type of climb.



The massive avalanche swath you go up to the right of to access the peak.



The North peak is seriously impressive. Has this face been repeated? Looks full value.




The East Face of Chimney Rock



Steep snow on the 3rd class ledge.



Dirty, compact goodness.



Somewhere in this photo are Steph, Jason and Steve. Hi!



A picturesque rap. North peak of Chimney Rock in the background




Fun moat action.



WhoHoo, crossed that off the list.



Chilling at Pete Lake with Lemah in the background.


Gear Notes:

60m half rope, small gear, webbing. "Bring some thin pins and don't expect to be back for tea". Just kidding, but they may be useful.


Approach Notes:

We did a 2.5 day trip which allowed plenty of time for whining. Follow Klenke.

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Way to go Mr. Softy. It's all about old age and trickery, isn't it? That route looks exposed but at least the rock is bad.



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Juan- Ha!!! The approach was also hot, but at least I was out of shape.


Trickery is important, but not nearly as much as having a VERY understanding wife.


Tom- considering your climbs as of late, this would be pretty darn mellow. I think you'd enjoy it.

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This peak never gets done and then, wham!!! A TR on CC and a TR on NWH. I'm curious, all of the guidebooks say it's pretty run-out. Would you give it a PG rating or more like a R? I need to get out there! This is such an impressive looking peak! Congrats!

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This is a nice mountain. I didn't finish the route as I bunged my feet up pretty bad in a fall about 2/3 the way up the rock. As to Potterfields problems, he was not on the East Face Direct when he fell but was traversing over from the U notch toward the East Face route.

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Did you run into any of the yellow jacket nests in the woods right below timberline?

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Sorry, I never checked back on this . . .


Jens- Nope, never did run into a nest, that would have added to the fun for sure.


Layback- Maybe PG13? Certainly there were sections that were pretty darn thin as far as gear goes, but maybe if you were wearing rock shoes it would be PG. I was trying to be tough and only brought boots, but rock shoes may have given some piece of mind for average joes such as myself. Although, there was a fair bit of dirt that boots were good for . ..


Tread- Bummer about the fall! Were you able to hike out under your own power? Thanks for the correction about Potterfield, I read his account a long time ago. We went over to look at the traverse from the U notch and it looked . ..interesting.

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