Even the boulders bite back...

[marc_leclerc]

Went out for a casual day of bouldering today with a couple friends. My friend, who is a good and competent climber, just went to bum slide down a short slab, went faster than expected and lost control, and when he tried to land at the base he planted his foot between a couple sharp rock and severed an artery in his ankle.

 

He was bleeding profusely, and I tied a shirt around his calf to slow the bleeding.While the other guy carried the pads I had to carry my badly bleeding buddy quite a ways back down to the highway. We got him to the hospital fairly quickly where he got stitches and x-rays and stuff.

 

We were lucky that things worked out, that there were two guys to help him out, that he was fairly light and I could carry him all the way to the car, and that he was able to stay calm and keep from passing out or anything. But if an accident like this happened to a friend who was bouldering alone, or under worse circumstances the consequences could have been drastically worse.

 

This just made me think that even on the most casual and un- seemingly dangerous outing:

 

-carry even the smallest first aid kit, just a bandage and gauze pad, along with your average roll of athletic tape can help.

 

-Although not always possible, if there is cell phone reception in the area just make sure your phone has full battery life before you leave.

 

-Although bouldering and climbing alone is great! If a friend can or would like to come, especially in an area with bad landings and rocky pits, bring them along!

 

-Just be careful, think a bit before you jump over that pit, or bum slide down a 10ft slab, wear shoes when scrambling around boulders (my friend just had rock shoes half on) and don't do anything stupid!

[Dirtyleaf]

Glad he didn't bleed out and die. Good job getting his ass to the ER in a timely manner!

[Sherri]

While the other guy carried the pads I had to carry my badly bleeding buddy quite a ways back down to the highway.

 

????

 

I think there's another lesson here.

 

Glad to hear he made it out ok. Thanks for posting about your ordeal and hope your friend heals up quickly. Take care out there.

[Drederek]

Say goodbye to the age of immortality M LeClerc. Most guys are lucky to do this by age 25. Most guys who climb by 35. I've read stuff saying our ability to dangerous stuff at age 15 - 25 without considering the possible bad outcomes is hardwired into our brains.

[marc_leclerc]

While the other guy carried the pads I had to carry my badly bleeding buddy quite a ways back down to the highway.

 

????

 

 

I was more or less the biggest guy out of the group and it just made sense to do it that way. My buddy only weighs about 150 ibs and I don't think it would have been faster whatsoever for both of us to carry him, probably more awkward in the long run.

[Sherri]

While the other guy carried the pads I had to carry my badly bleeding buddy quite a ways back down to the highway.

 

I was more or less the biggest guy out of the group and it just made sense to do it that way. My buddy only weighs about 150 ibs and I don't think it would have been faster whatsoever for both of us to carry him, probably more awkward in the long run.

 

Fair enough, Marc. Sounds like you guys handled the situation well.

[markwebster]

awesome job on the carry out! I can't even imagine carrying a guy 150 pounds down a trail.

 

But let me state for the record...again...I've lost track of how many climbing friends have broken/sprained/torn ligaments in their ankles bouldering. Even at the gym, on padded floors, a couple buddies have broken their ankles twice.

 

I can clearly remember my friends who have been injured rope climbing...because it is rare.

 

If you want to climb for a long time, as in decades, and stand a much better chance of being injury free...ropes are a wonderful invention.

 

Flame on!

[V O R]

Ropes are aid

[mountainsloth]

I have actually had a very similar experience. I was bouldering in the clear cut at Gold Bar, goofing around in my approach shoes, slipped and my foot wedged between two very sharp rocks slicing my ankle into a gusher. No arteries were severed, and I did not need to be carried out thankfully, but it certainly solidified my stance that all climbing can be dangerous.

 

Luckily my friend had brought his first aid kit and was able to bandage me up pretty well.

 

[RuMR]

awesome job on the carry out! I can't even imagine carrying a guy 150 pounds down a trail.

 

But let me state for the record...again...I've lost track of how many climbing friends have broken/sprained/torn ligaments in their ankles bouldering. Even at the gym, on padded floors, a couple buddies have broken their ankles twice.

 

I can clearly remember my friends who have been injured rope climbing...because it is rare.

 

If you want to climb for a long time, as in decades, and stand a much better chance of being injury free...ropes are a wonderful invention.

 

Flame on!

too true...i seriously whacked my ankle...titanium plates and screws and over a year and a half before its somewhat "normal" from a 3 foot fall in the GYM!!!

[billcoe]

...i seriously whacked my ankle...titanium plates and screws and over a year and a half before its somewhat "normal" from a 3 foot fall in the GYM!!!

 

I could see that with a heavier, older person *cough* me *cough, but dude, you're like lighter, younger and in shape! WT hell? 3 feet? I'm seriously considering the 30' highballing I still do on occasion. Last time it was damp, and I was wondering how far up my thighbones would go if I screwed up and popped off.

[ClimbingPanther]

Interesting story, Marc. Way to handle it!

 

For a short trip to the car/hospital, a nice tourniquet will do the job. However, if a long wait is in store before help arrives, it would be best to poke around until you can find the pressure point to stop the artery in question, rather than cut off the entire circulation. Also position the victim with his leg as high as possible above the heart to lower the pressure in the gusher. Eat and drink plenty to keep hydrated and replace volume in lieu of an IV. This could save a limb that would be otherwise lost with a long-term tourniquet. It's how they castrate sheep, after all! However, if you're unsuccessful at stopping the bleeding, losing a limb is better than losing your life.

[RuMR]

...i seriously whacked my ankle...titanium plates and screws and over a year and a half before its somewhat "normal" from a 3 foot fall in the GYM!!!

 

I could see that with a heavier, older person *cough* me *cough, but dude, you're like lighter, younger and in shape! WT hell? 3 feet? I'm seriously considering the 30' highballing I still do on occasion. Last time it was damp, and I was wondering how far up my thighbones would go if I screwed up and popped off.

my right foot landed precisely on the edge of the crash pad and rolled under...i didn't even fall down, but was standing there looking at the bottom of my foot because it rotated so far. I didn't go compound, but i was really close as the end of my leg bone was pushing out the side of the skin on my foot...then i got reaaaaaal nauseus...

Edited June 7, 2010 by RuMR

[Kimmo]

...i seriously whacked my ankle...titanium plates and screws and over a year and a half before its somewhat "normal" from a 3 foot fall in the GYM!!!

 

WT hell? 3 feet? I'm seriously considering the 30' highballing I still do on occasion.

 

3 feet for rumr is pretty much the same as a 30 foot highball for the rest of us. you know, a height to height ratio thing.

[hafilax]

Climbing's got nothing on what I used to do to myself skateboarding.

[Dustin B.]

Interesting story, Marc. Way to handle it!

 

For a short trip to the car/hospital, a nice tourniquet will do the job. However, if a long wait is in store before help arrives, it would be best to poke around until you can find the pressure point to stop the artery in question, rather than cut off the entire circulation. Also position the victim with his leg as high as possible above the heart to lower the pressure in the gusher. Eat and drink plenty to keep hydrated and replace volume in lieu of an IV. This could save a limb that would be otherwise lost with a long-term tourniquet. It's how they castrate sheep, after all! However, if you're unsuccessful at stopping the bleeding, losing a limb is better than losing your life.

 

relevent, solid advice.

[andyf]

But let me state for the record...again...I've lost track of how many climbing friends have broken/sprained/torn ligaments in their ankles bouldering. Even at the gym, on padded floors, a couple buddies have broken their ankles twice.

 

I can clearly remember my friends who have been injured rope climbing...because it is rare.

 

If you want to climb for a long time, as in decades, and stand a much better chance of being injury free...ropes are a wonderful invention.

 

 

25 years climbing: 1 broken ankle bouldering; 1 broken ankle in a gym fall (roped, leading); 1 severly sprained ankle hitting ledge when lowering off a #2 RP that ripped (guess that wasn't such a good idea). I still love to boulder. You can pretty much get hurt anywhere, anytime, roped or unroped.

Edited June 8, 2010 by andyf

[markwebster]

I climb at the gym twice a week. We have a big bouldering area there. I hear big booms several times a night as people jump, fall off the top of the bouldering wall. I take falls all the time leading at the gym, but due to the overhangs, I just bounce in the air.

 

My friends who boulder "safely" (the ones who haven't broken their ankles) say you learn how to land, just like in falling while leading with ropes. And obviously some of the best leaders are the ones who boulder a lot. I'm not denying that bouldering improves your climbing, or the obvious fun to be had catching your female partners. "I got choo!"

 

But for me, having seen many of my friends get hurt bouldering, and very few of us hurt leading with ropes, the choice is clear.

 

I did break my ankle leading once. But I was young, stupid, and full of myself, and basically deserved it.

 

The pictures in the magazines of people high balling? I've never understood why they put such a low value on their lives.

[RuMR]

"My friends who boulder "safely" (the ones who haven't broken their ankles) say you learn how to land..."

 

tis only a matter of time...sooner or later your ankle will get compromised..."safely"..what if you just slip or a hold breaks...

 

As bachar phrased it...and i'm paraphrasing here...he has less than a one in a million chance he'd fall...well, i read somewhere that he'd climbed over a million vertical feet unroped and...well, you know the rest of the story...

[hafilax]

My friends with the worst climbing related injuries were roped.

 

You have the same elements of control over the risk you take bouldering, soloing or roped climbing. The edges between them can blur. When does a high-ball become a solo? A bouldery start ends at the first clip/piece.

 

With the exception of top-roping you are generally risking serious injury on some level and rely on your judgment and skill to save your ass.

[G-spotter]

So Marc that's 2 partners with serious injuries to the ankle area for you in the last year. Maybe you should buy some crutches and stash them in your car for the next partner who gets gimped?

[Rad]

My worst climbing injury was a badly sprained ankle many years ago. I was trying a climb at (or perhaps beyond) my limit and unexpectedly popped off while pulling up rope to clip the second bolt. My belayer yarded in slack so I was still caught, but my foot landed on the edge of a stone. I barely hobbled back to the car but still managed to serve as an usher (on crutches) for my roommate's wedding the next day. Oops!

 

Trad, boulder, sport. I don't think any one is categorically safer than another.

[andyf]

I climb at the gym twice a week. We have a big bouldering area there.

 

Right. I climb at the same gym. At least when my shoulder's healthy...

[andyf]

I barely hobbled back to the car but still managed to serve as an usher (on crutches) for my roommate's wedding the next day. Oops!

 

My story: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/leavenworth/icicle_creek/106337716

 

A few weeks later, I argued a case before the state Supreme Court. The courtoom was packed. A colleague offered to take my crutches from me once I got to the podium. "Sure," I said, "as long as you bring them back when I'm done." I finished my argument and turned to look at my colleague. He smiled back with a "Good job, but I've completely forgotten you're a gimp" sort of look. After staring at him for what seemed like an eternity, I hopped on one leg back to the counsel table. The courtroom busted up.