JosephH Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 It plays every February 1st like clockwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Uli Says: Â ".....If I would not know what he has already climbed in his life, I would think he is a normal, motivated climber. Alex is 24 years old and has climbed the most wildest things. I left Bern on Monday morning, May 17, 2010 at 5.30. It was a long journey to San Francisco, where I arrived late in the eveing of the same day. Tuesday, May 18, we spent doing the last preparations. After we left to the Valley. I felt like being on the way nonstop for two days. And there I met Alex full of beans. Tomorrow, Wednesday we will climb the Nose on El Cap. Most climbers need three days to climb this route. We want to be back in the valley in the evening. Wednesday morning, May 19, 2010: Alex and I are at the entry. We just met each other and today we climb together for the fist time in our lives. Between us 30 meters of rope and some intermediate belays. Slowly I start to forget my jetlag and enjoy the golden granit. After the Sickel Ledge we pass a second rope team. Kindly they let us pass. We climb together and quickly we gain height. Doit Tower: we are on the way since one hour. We make a first stop to eat and drink something. It is like a solo: you never have to stop. Just climb, step by step. Now the route is more technical and we need some rope tricks to overwhelm the Kingswing. Short afterwards we find ourselves underneath the famours Great Roof. Again we have to pass rope teams. Fortunately that Alex is so famous in the States. Immediately they let us go by....." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 wonder how fast those boys coudl do da corner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 ..well, as their first practice run up the Nose was 4 hours and change, you have to figure it would probably be under that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 takes me about that long just to get my wall harness on, even w/ the pliers! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 What the hell Ivan. Don't go bringing actual climbing into a gem of thread like this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Remember, LostCamKenney was injured and still is due to the fact that the current policy that relegates climbers to an very dangerous section of Beacon and seals off any of the standard climbing areas... To quote the Gipper - "now there you go again" - what you got right there is some classic olde school victimal thinking. Hell, thinking like that will make you an honorary local - it's another life ruined by the Peregrines!!! Swooped right down and blew him off the rock they did. I'm sure I saw it happen, there was two or three of them tag teaming him until he came off, gunning for him they were. I know I broke my L5 a ways back and I'm pretty sure that was the Peregrine's fault too. Â P.S. I don't think Pink is going to like you calling that part of Beacon 'very dangerous'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff donnelly Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 I know I broke my L5 a ways back and I'm pretty sure that was the Peregrine's fault too. so broke back kenny jostled his back aiding at beatard rock, and so did you JH? what were you climbing when you broke L5 - some A4 monstrosity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Nope. Turned a dismount from an untethered highline over the McKenzie River into a failed high bar Flyaway and ended with being flung up onto the cliff alongside the highline and then dropped into the river - i.e. your typcial Peregrine attack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 peregrine attack on a slackline - perfect crime for those sneaky fuckers! perhaps if you just covered yerself w/ hardosaur urine first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 I'm telling you I saw one out of the corner of my eye just before I lost it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinp Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 I like zion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 I like zion I am going to Yosemite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 just before I lost it. Â Â and you never got it back...... Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I am going to Yosemite. Â Â Â Â Sorry to be off topic. Wish I knew how to program this forum so the theme from Days Of Our Lives would play when anyone opened it. Maybe I can get Porter to handle that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Nice! Is that you on 10.96 Doug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Gripper, last Monday. Take note, that is not the proper beta for turning the corner into the finger crack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 What route is that? ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 What route is that? ... Â uhhh, "Gripper", as he says above...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 (edited) that doesn't help me really. Where is it for one thing? Yosemite? ah- I'm guessing that is right. Google FTW. Edited June 1, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 It's on Arch Rock, in the lower Merced canyon at Yosemite NP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 (edited) cool Edited June 1, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 Gripper, last Monday. Take note, that is not the proper beta for turning the corner into the finger crack... I was going to say he looks ass backwards... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I was going to say he looks ass backwards... Â ....and toproping too? LOL! Who was it jerking my chain and complaining to me about that. I kept taking pics of my second and as I led every pitch, all the pics were of some dude following and pulling my pieces. They were bitching about it....probably Pink. Â My thoughts are any pics are better than no pics, and clean granite pics are best of all! I missed the Yos trip this year with some great dudes being selfish, and I stayed here and got rain and they went there and got rain. So thanks for the warm and dry looking granite picture! You obviously rule OffW. _______________________________________________________________ Â takes me about that long just to get my wall harness on, even w/ the pliers! Â You f*ing kids, what did I tell you about that when you returned my vice-grips? God I must sound old ....really, both Kyle and I have rope melter/cutters you can use to make it perfect. Swing by my house anytime with the wayward Yates in tow and I'll buy you a glass of cheap red wine while we play, you know where I live. Â Do you have any unmarked Omega Dovals BTW? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinp Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 Do you have any unmarked Omega Dovals BTW? Oh me me! I found one between Cruisin and YW last summer and Kyle recently informed me that it bears the marking of Coe  Are we ready for another picture?  Name that dirtbag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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