Rating/Name of route on boulder near GNS

[summitchaserCJB]

I was warming down on the "Arete" V0 route on that trailside boulder and took a look at my old project (not claiming a FA just to be clear). Basically follows the same holds but on the opposite side of the boulder so you are basically dangling your legs off the vertical face and scraping for foot holds. Starts by the two drilled holes. I figure it's at least V2 but I don't really boulder. Kinda like a 5.10b but I know that doesn't translate but it's Index after all. I looked at mountainproject, the Index guide, and rockclimbing.com and nothing. Anyone here ever climb it? What grade does it deserve do you think?

Anyway here is a video just to clarify. The first route is "Arete" or as the Index guide calls it "Crystalline" 5.9+. The second is what I'm talking about. I'm mainly just trying to find out what grade it is so I can judge my typically inept bouldering skills. It definitely is harder than V0. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-UT9IPLqYE

[Off_White]

v0=5.10

v1=5.10+

v2=5.11

v3=5.11+

v4=5.12-

v5=5.12a/b

v6=5.12b/c

v7=5.12c/d

v8=5.13

v9=5.13a/b

v10=5.13b/c

v11=5.13c/d

v12=5.14a/b

v13=5.14b/c

v14=5.14c/d

v15=5.15

 

So, what do you think? 5.10b is V0, V0+ maybe. 5.9 is VB.

[summitchaserCJB]

Ok. I think the V scale is kinda flawed personally. Especially with consideration to Index. There is no way the Arete v0 is 5.10. I see kids who can't do crap outside fly up v3-4. What does that tell you? That the system doesn't translate- like at all. Especially when you consider the sandbagging at Index. So, I gave that an Index 5.10b for what it's worth. But I still want to see what it is rated- if it is at all.

And for reference and an example I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

Edited April 19, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[Lord_Albert_Winchester]

 

I've never been fond of shoulder stands, but it felt like HVS.

[DPS]

I thought the problem was 5.10+

 

 

[Adventureboy]

i think if you climb the right side of the arete it's v0, and if you climb the left side v2/3, there are variations as well. Check out the arete just up hill in the corner it's super choice.

[Lukic]

The Central Washington Bouldering book has both sides of that rock rated as V1 and not to sound snide, but it's Index and not the gym. I certainly haven't bouldered tons outside, but everyone should know that gym ratings don't equate to real rock anywhere. This applies to bouldering as well as roped climbing.

[chirp]

Nice vid!

I always thought the left (steeper) side was easier than the right.

 

I feel the fear of peeling off the slabby right would leave a mark so I always hated trying it.

 

Dunno

[summitchaserCJB]

The Central Washington Bouldering book has both sides of that rock rated as V1 and not to sound snide, but it's Index and not the gym. I certainly haven't bouldered tons outside, but everyone should know that gym ratings don't equate to real rock anywhere. This applies to bouldering as well as roped climbing.

That was my point. The problem is that the same grades are used inside/outside. I think the left side is much harder.

[DPS]

I think the left side is much harder.

 

Me too.

[chirp]

The left side is a power problem, the right version has more balancy/technical features.

[marc_leclerc]

I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

 

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this.

 

V0-5.10-

V1-5.10+

V2-5.11

V3-5.11+

V4-5.12-

V5-5.12

V6-5.12+

V7-5.13-

V8-5.13

V9-5.13+

V10-5.14a

V11-5.14b

V12-5.14c

V13-5.14d

V14-5.15a

V15-5.15

 

I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves.

[frankstoneline]

I assume when you talked about kids who cant do crap outside flying up v3's you were talking about in a gym, and as previously mentioned, gym grades dont equate at all to outdoor stuff.

Also: what song is that?

[Adventureboy]

Either way this spray about a turd on the trailside of index is kind of ridiculous. Time to go climbing and remember that grades in general are a rough yardstick to measure difficulty. Also it's index, grades don't matter anyway.

[summitchaserCJB]

The song is Radio Silence by my friend Nick Weaver AKA NHW. His tracks are free online I believe.

[summitchaserCJB]

I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

 

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this.

 

V0-5.10-

V1-5.10+

V2-5.11

V3-5.11+

V4-5.12-

V5-5.12

V6-5.12+

V7-5.13-

V8-5.13

V9-5.13+

V10-5.14a

V11-5.14b

V12-5.14c

V13-5.14d

V14-5.15a

V15-5.15

 

I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves.

Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach.

[marc_leclerc]

I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

 

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this.

 

V0-5.10-

V1-5.10+

V2-5.11

V3-5.11+

V4-5.12-

V5-5.12

V6-5.12+

V7-5.13-

V8-5.13

V9-5.13+

V10-5.14a

V11-5.14b

V12-5.14c

V13-5.14d

V14-5.15a

V15-5.15

 

I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves.

Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach.

 

That makes no sense as a reply to what I just said!?!?! At all!

[summitchaserCJB]

I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

 

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this.

 

V0-5.10-

V1-5.10+

V2-5.11

V3-5.11+

V4-5.12-

V5-5.12

V6-5.12+

V7-5.13-

V8-5.13

V9-5.13+

V10-5.14a

V11-5.14b

V12-5.14c

V13-5.14d

V14-5.15a

V15-5.15

 

I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves.

Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach.

 

That makes no sense as a reply to what I just said!?!?! At all!

I said that because it seems that you like to do one crux move of a route and then hang dog after it just so you can say you can climb that grade.

[ryanb]

Ok. I think the V scale is kinda flawed personally. Especially with consideration to Index. There is no way the Arete v0 is 5.10. I see kids who can't do crap outside fly up v3-4. What does that tell you? That the system doesn't translate- like at all. Especially when you consider the sandbagging at Index. So, I gave that an Index 5.10b for what it's worth. But I still want to see what it is rated- if it is at all.

And for reference and an example I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

 

The gym just seems easier because you do it more.

 

If you can cruise most v4's in stone gardens at the moment you have plenty of strength to climb 11+ and make a good effort at 12- at index. Both Shrilly and climax control have short hard sections that are probably stone gardens v3 or easier in terms of physical effort, just insecure and heady. Full P1 Japanese gardens has two distinct two move cruxes that would probably clock in at v3 and a bunch of 5.9 crack climbing with good rests every 20 ft.

 

Lots of people just get bogged down in the 10's and never bother to try the harder stuff at index ... the moves aren't unreasonable, some of the holds are just small.

 

Some of the 12's (not to mention some of the 11's and even some of the 10's) I've been on there are stupid hard but I'm not exactly a solid v4 climber in the gym (though i've climbed a fair number of 4's and 5's outside) and I'm pretty sure that I'd do a lot better if I had the crimp, lock off and core strength to send some of the v4's in the front room... those little plastic crimpers with no feet are brutal!

 

 

 

[el jefe]

I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

 

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this.

 

V0-5.10-

V1-5.10+

V2-5.11

V3-5.11+

V4-5.12-

V5-5.12

V6-5.12+

V7-5.13-

V8-5.13

V9-5.13+

V10-5.14a

V11-5.14b

V12-5.14c

V13-5.14d

V14-5.15a

V15-5.15

 

I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves.

Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach.

 

That makes no sense as a reply to what I just said!?!?! At all!

I said that because it seems that you like to do one crux move of a route and then hang dog after it just so you can say you can climb that grade.

 

summitchaser, i believe marc was merely trying to illustrate the way in which bouldering grades and route grades differ, not spraying about what he does or taking credit for climbing 5.14.

[RuMR]

Ok. I think the V scale is kinda flawed personally. Especially with consideration to Index. There is no way the Arete v0 is 5.10. I see kids who can't do crap outside fly up v3-4. What does that tell you? That the system doesn't translate- like at all. Especially when you consider the sandbagging at Index. So, I gave that an Index 5.10b for what it's worth. But I still want to see what it is rated- if it is at all.

And for reference and an example I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

i think the Vrating totally applies...don't forget that there are many many different styles of climbing and just because you suck at one style, it doesn't mean that the rating doesn't apply...

 

I know kids that can climb steep steep shit in the V7-V9 range very handily that will struggle on a 5.11 crack climb because, hold on and open your mind here, they DON'T KNOW HOW TO CRACK CLIMB...duh...give them a week in cracks and they will tell you that Japanese Gardens has maybe a v2+ section...which corresponds to 5.11-ish, right?

Edited April 20, 2010 by RuMR

[marc_leclerc]

I said that because it seems that you like to do one crux move of a route and then hang dog after it just so you can say you can climb that grade.

 

summitchaser, i believe marc was merely trying to illustrate the way in which bouldering grades and route grades differ, not spraying about what he does or taking credit for climbing 5.14.

 

Thanks El Jefe for clarifying. Summitchaser, don't be a jerk and 'assume' what I like to do when I climb.

[G-spotter]

Besides I heard you like chosspiles more so than 5.14s

[kukuzka1]

and any time you clip above your head its a top rope ascent

[boadman]

Ok. I think the V scale is kinda flawed personally. Especially with consideration to Index. There is no way the Arete v0 is 5.10. I see kids who can't do crap outside fly up v3-4. What does that tell you? That the system doesn't translate- like at all. Especially when you consider the sandbagging at Index. So, I gave that an Index 5.10b for what it's worth. But I still want to see what it is rated- if it is at all.

And for reference and an example I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

i think the Vrating totally applies...don't forget that there are many many different styles of climbing and just because you suck at one style, it doesn't mean that the rating doesn't apply...

 

I know kids that can climb steep steep shit in the V7-V9 range very handily that will struggle on a 5.11 crack climb because, hold on and open your mind here, they DON'T KNOW HOW TO CRACK CLIMB...duh...give them a week in cracks and they will tell you that Japanese Gardens has maybe a v2+ section...which corresponds to 5.11-ish, right?

 

I don't really think the V-grade applies that well actually, I can barely struggle up V3, but I can usually climb 5.12.