Alpine ice routes

[rocketparrotlet]

Are there any alpine ice routes in/coming in soon without mixed climbing? Routes like Triple Couloirs look awesome, but I don't have any mixed experience for the top part. Is Chair Peak still in?

[summitchaserCJB]

Nope sorry. j/k I'm sure there are.

[Dane]

Yes, Chair is still climbable as a snow and ice route. Looks more like Jan. up there than April right now.

[rocketparrotlet]

Any couloirs/alpine ice besides Chair?

[JBC]

Tons of stuff out there - here are a few:

 

Both the Colchuck glacier route and the NE Coulior on Colchuck.

 

N face of Lane Peak in MT Rainier NP has 3 to do, depending on conditions there may be a small bit of mixed in any of them (like a move or two - good place to learn.) This time of year usually all three are pretty fat.

 

After the last few weeks of snbow, the NE route on the Tooth is probably in as well.

 

Once the N Cascades highway opens up the Couloir On S Early winters is a good one as well.

 

Jim Couch

[Taluscat]

hey rocketboy,

liberty ridge,rainier-snice/50-60'

n.face,mt maude/snow/50'

n.ridge mt.baker/snow,ice to/65'

sherpa glacier,mt.stuart snow,ice/60'

n face,mt shuksan/snice/60.

these typically dont have "mixed climbing" except the oddball move or two through a thin rockband cond. dependent - all are moderate climbs in commitment though offer a variety of charecteristic challenges and cascade locals...have a good time out there..

 

[rocketparrotlet]

Thanks guys! These suggestions are great. I'll have to check them out as soon as I get a chance!

 

-Mark

[Alex]

There arent that many alpine ice routes in the Cascades. But that said, Spring is a great time to get on whatever you can if the weather cooperates

 

From my own experience, here is what you should be considering:

 

North Buttress Couloir Colchuck - entry level

NEB Couloir Colchuck - little bit harder than its neighbor

Triple Couloirs Dragontail - not as difficult as it seems, you can always bypass the runnels by continuing to top of Hidden Couloir and doing 2 moderate rock climbing pitches to enter the Third couloir

N Face Dragontail - longer than Triple Couloirs, similar terrain

Stuart Glacier Couloir Stuart

Ice Cliff Glacier Stuart - probably better in May

East Couloir Cutthroat - classic thin ice line very limited season. Do it the first week or two the highway is open

Greybeard NF - lots of reports of good times and lots of reports of bad times on this route. YMMV. One of the few I havent done and not particularly interested after hearing the latest avalanche story. Gotta stay alive for my kids now.

Cosley Houston on Colfax - in fat and easy shape probably through May

Lovers Lane, Zipper Tatoosh - easy classics

Chair - easy classics with easy approach.

Maude - someone mentioned but I've found its approach not worth the climb. Maybe a sa ski?

NFace Buckner - I did this in June one year and it was a nice trip but again probably better as a ski

 

 

Colonial - booyah

 

 

That should get you started

 

 

[kukuzka1]

summit chief n face/haley route on chiwawa

[wayne]

Over 7000 would be a good idea

[stever]

How late into the Spring are these routes in good condition? I expect to be in Washington around June and would like to get on some alpine ice!

[genepires]

by june for the "alpine ice routes" not glacier walk ups

out:

colchuck couloirs

dragontail

colfax

greybeard

cutthroat

chair

colonial

 

in but possibly spicy

stuart routes

 

in and in good shape probably

baker

maude

buckner

shuksan

rainier

 

 

[jonesy]

wow someone read my mind

 

damn rain is keeping the rock wet, so i was thinking either chair or climbing elderado. Thing is I have friday night and all saturday... no sunday

[jonesy]

wow someone read my mind

 

damn rain is keeping the rock wet, so i was thinking either chair or climbing elderado. Thing is I have friday night and all saturday... no sunday

[Alex]

June is late and full alpine rock mode and stuff. Only things that might be in in June, as Gene said - stuff way high up like N Ridge Baker if you want to call that alpine ice, Hood routes possibly like Sandy Headwall, things of that nature. All the lowland climbs below say 8000 ft (which is most of the Cascades) are going to be mush....

[kevino]

Not sure what time in June you'll be here but people were climbing this into early June last season...

eldorado nw