wayne Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 Trip: Can. Rockies Ice and Rock - Date: 3/20/2010 Trip Report: We planned this trip long ago, thinking our exile in Eastern Wa would limit our climbing activities. Little did we know that we would be climbing 9 out of the last 10 weekends just prior to a great trip to the Rockies. Beau and I were burnt out when we left for Canmore, but we were headed to the Rockies for crying-out-loud! The topper was the chance to hook up with the legendary US alpinist Steve S. and get some inside beta and rope gun service. Talk of avy danger did indeed send many, mostly guided, parties a crashing at all the available good spots. Getting "scooped" by other parties meant 3am starts on the bigger objectives, or leaving later in the day to be the second or third wave on a given route. We started our run at the Evan Thomas creek area doing a 2 pitch route in thin conditions called Too Cold for Zero. It was unpicked and way fun! We did another cool route -Moonlight after it vacated. Next day, the Colonel sent the troops to Yamnuska to have a go at rock climbing on a very large wall, too be sure. We took a line called Jimmy and the Cruisers. 6 pitches 5.11. It was amazingly exposed. I wish I had Steves photos of the crux. It had absolutely nauseating exposure. You can see a climber behind his left shoulder! It was back to the war room to make the most complicated battle plan yet: 2 teams would be launched to do to separate routes in the Ghost. Steve and Beau would secure Hydrophobia and hike over the top to rappel into Sorcerer and attack that link-up in full daylight. My Team (TEAM AMERICA! F-YEAH), campaigned the Sorcerer first then we failed to get ahead in time of 2 other teams drafting on our other assault squad on Hydrophobia. Oh well, the needs of the many... Hydropobia Rob on the Scorcerer Me leading the last pitch. Now that was a long day! A few hours of sleep and the war raged on with Steve and I heading for a long standing dream of mine: Nemesis! Pitch#46 of ice for the season It was picked out like all the biggies, but hey, It is mid March. It was the best route I have done in the park though. What a trip we had, hanging out with great people and capping(?) a super season. More photos on my blog and,Yes, there should be a video sometime soon. Please do trip reports and join the AAC, Colonels ORDERS! Quote
Buckaroo Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 mid march is the best for Banff, warmer and longer daylight, and you know there's very little ice left in the lower 48. awesome TR, Too Cold and Moonlight look thin compared to when we did them. Betting Steve is the top understated alpinist in the US, he gets it done without the hoopla. Quote
G-spotter Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 Sounds like you had a good trip Wayne! Isn't Jimmy and The Cruisers 10c? Quote
W Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 Looks like a great trip, Wayne. Glad conditions stayed doable! I was up from 2/18-3/4 and conditions were really good for almost everything, except south facing stuff. Pretty cool you were able to mix it up with a day at Yam, not to mention getting out with the Colonel. Quote
pink Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 (edited) Sounds like you had a good trip Wayne! Isn't Jimmy and The Cruisers 10c? [CONTENT REMOVED ] Edited April 5, 2010 by Ade Quote
Dane Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 Nice combo Wayno...glad the ice is holding! Not get back to work Hey that looks like a way fat traverse off the ledge and it's no where near 47 pitches up Good effort! Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted March 25, 2010 Posted March 25, 2010 Crushing it! Very impressive TR, possibly the best I've seen all season. Quote
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