Jump to content

[TR] Can. Rockies Ice and Rock - 3/20/2010


wayne

Recommended Posts

Trip: Can. Rockies Ice and Rock -

 

Date: 3/20/2010

 

Trip Report:

We planned this trip long ago, thinking our exile in Eastern Wa would limit our climbing activities. Little did we know that we would be climbing 9 out of the last 10 weekends just prior to a great trip to the Rockies. Beau and I were burnt out when we left for Canmore, but we were headed to the Rockies for crying-out-loud! The topper was the chance to hook up with the legendary US alpinist Steve S. and get some inside beta and rope gun service.

Talk of avy danger did indeed send many, mostly guided, parties a crashing at all the available good spots. Getting "scooped" by other parties meant 3am starts on the bigger objectives, or leaving later in the day to be the second or third wave on a given route.

We started our run at the Evan Thomas creek area doing a 2 pitch route in thin conditions called Too Cold for Zero. It was unpicked and way fun!

P10003181.JPG

 

We did another cool route -Moonlight after it vacated.

 

 

P1010760.jpg

 

Next day, the Colonel sent the troops to Yamnuska to have a go at rock climbing on a very large wall, too be sure. We took a line called Jimmy and the Cruisers. 6 pitches 5.11. It was amazingly exposed. I wish I had Steves photos of the crux. It had absolutely nauseating exposure.

You can see a climber behind his left shoulder!

P1010795.jpg

 

P10003381.JPG

 

P1010808.jpg

 

It was back to the war room to make the most complicated battle plan yet: 2 teams would be launched to do to separate routes in the Ghost. Steve and Beau would secure Hydrophobia and hike over the top to rappel into Sorcerer and attack that link-up in full daylight. My Team (TEAM AMERICA! F-YEAH), campaigned the Sorcerer first then we failed to get ahead in time of 2 other teams drafting on our other assault squad on Hydrophobia. Oh well, the needs of the many...

 

P1010840.jpg

Hydropobia

 

P1010813.JPG

Rob on the Scorcerer

P1010822.JPG

Me leading the last pitch.

Now that was a long day!

A few hours of sleep and the war raged on with Steve and I heading for a long standing dream of mine: Nemesis!

 

P1000409.JPG

 

P1010878.jpgPitch#46 of ice for the season

It was picked out like all the biggies, but hey, It is mid March. It was the best route I have done in the park though. What a trip we had, hanging out with great people and capping(?) a super season. More photos on my blog and,Yes, there should be a video sometime soon.

Please do trip reports and join the AAC, Colonels ORDERS!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 14
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

mid march is the best for Banff, warmer and longer daylight, and you know there's very little ice left in the lower 48.

 

awesome TR, Too Cold and Moonlight look thin compared to when we did them.

 

Betting Steve is the top understated alpinist in the US, he gets it done without the hoopla.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like a great trip, Wayne. Glad conditions stayed doable! I was up from 2/18-3/4 and conditions were really good for almost everything, except south facing stuff. Pretty cool you were able to mix it up with a day at Yam, not to mention getting out with the Colonel. :tup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...