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Posted

Awesome pic Rudy!

 

Question, and no disrespect to your son, as he climbs way harder than I ever will, but is city park still 13c for him, or is there a hand/body size benefit (obviously subjective)? Has he top roped other 13c s of various styles (as well as a s and b s)? Obviously continuously overhanging pin scars are gonna be hard, but I have to think a 10 year old's fingers are a bit closer in size to the #5 hb offsets I send that climb with. :)

Posted

This is a good point...he claims that it felt 12+ for him and actually worked harder on other routes...that being said he has not redpointed it (although he hiked it with no falls on a toprope his third go)...his fingers do get torn in the same spot as adults, he's using stuff in between the bigger scars. I think the real difference is the size of his toe on his climbing shoe...

 

he has led many 12's and redpointed one 13a on lead so far (he did this one pretty quickly)...

Posted
I like how happy he looks in the pic! Thats the money part of it.

 

Do you remember him when he was 6 hiking wartley's? talk about a midget!

 

Yeah sure do, but it doesn't seem like it was 4 years ago.... :shock: Life is a river, just rolling on. One of the joys of having children is that it fixes time differently for us old folks....

Posted
The spawn of the sport climbing generation.
his favorite climbing area is Yosemite for its cracks...he loves cracks above all else...nasty little habit, it is...
Posted
The spawn of the sport climbing generation.
his favorite climbing area is Yosemite for its cracks...he loves cracks above all else...nasty little habit, it is...

 

He should try the first pitch of East Face of Monkey face.... or the whole thing :)

Posted
Can your son climb anything that you cannot, because of hand size or whatnot?

 

He can climb anything i can, but the converse is not true...

 

But he still has a long way to go to match his old man's interweb spraying skills. :laf:

Posted

I've never aided the route, but I've fondled the jams a few times when lowering down from Godzilla and the majority of the locks actually seem pretty good for my chubby fingers. The feet are impossible though. I don't think that small hands would make that much difference.

Posted
I've never aided the route, but I've fondled the jams a few times when lowering down from Godzilla and the majority of the locks actually seem pretty good for my chubby fingers. The feet are impossible though. I don't think that small hands would make that much difference.

 

exactly, I checked it out a little on rap, and the fingers, albeit a little pain, fit in the pin scars, but there was nowhere to put your feet! I want to see a video of skinner or whoever climbing it (not hugh herr, his feet are different then mine) to see what they did.

I can't imagine campusing 120 ft. of fingerjams, but then again, I've never climbed .13c!

Posted

The board lasted shoes Todd wore have huge blunted toes. Try to fart around in a pair of Fires. Asolos, or the like on city park's tips jams compared to our modern day pointed slippers. It is crazy the difference- even if you size the old rock boots tight. I've done a bunch of dogging on TR trying the route when I was about 30 pounds lighter and the feet are insane on the route.

 

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As for Rudy's kid, he is an amazing climber and is the future!

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