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Posted

I dont know the name of it. Its between the Hills Creek Spires and Shady Creek Spires. We thought we where going to do the FA of it but someone beat us to it by drilling THE MOST poorly crafted bolt ladder I have ever seen. I kinda want to call it Scorpion Spire, because after when I was on the ground trundling, under some of the rocks I found three scorpions one almost 3 inches long. The bolt ladder was one of the most botched routes I have ever seen, who ever you are chop your route and climb that thing in proper style!

 

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here is one of the smaller ones

Posted
Tyrolean Traverse between Old Man and Old Woman, Umpqua

oldMANtyrolan_oldman_medium.jpgOlManTyrolean_OldWoman_medium.jpg

 

Oh crap! I didn't know their was a pinnacle named Old Man. :shock: Plaidman and I named a pinnacle The Old Man last year. Guess that's the problem with spending more time climbing than spraying; you don't know shit about what everybody else is doing. BTW I just found this thread and it's the shit! My todo list just grew. Way to Go climbers!!! :rawk:

Posted

It used to be called Bartram's Pecker, but PC raised its head and the name was changed to Old Man Rock - Wishful thinking seems to me - We named the pinnacle next to Old Man, the Old Woman as we felt in his condition, he needed a friend - Both are fun climbs..

Posted

Same thing happened to "Cock Rock". As I understand it, all the pioneers floating by called it that. Then they changed the name so you didn't have to say "Cock" in public.

 

Cock_rock_small.jpg

 

Pfft, they botched that, it doesn't look anything like a "Rooster". "Rooster" Rock in the gorge.

 

Gary, did you see the pics of Jeff styling last Saturday? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/953381/Re_Naked_first_ascent_at_The_F#Post953381 Don't scroll past the first 3 pics if you're in public BTW.

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Posted

Jeeze tough crowd here... Any one climb a pinnacle in Oregon the past 6 months and take a picture of it?

 

And no Eric, no further than going to Steins or some such. Straight forward as well. Slog down I5 then jam East along the Umpqua and find one of the MANY crags.

Posted
Jeeze tough crowd here....

what dog-repecting non-sporto-head climber slums around in or-e-gone anyhow, dood? thought you were pretty much the scene 'rouuuuuuund here! :)

 

steins was well worth the trip - if'n i dragged you along could we keep you sober enoughgt to rig that sweet looking tyrolean? :rawk:

Posted
Jeeze tough crowd here... Any one climb a pinnacle in Oregon the past 6 months and take a picture of it?

 

Double Rubber did (P2 Turkey Monster). How many pieces of pro can you count?

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This duder also (somewhere on Acker Rock)

P9250703.JPG

 

How bout u Tyler I know ur holdin out :)

Posted

Meh okay I'll bite... my friend Brian and I did the FA of the Platypus, a crazy tower out there off HW 20 somewhere. Probably like II 5.4 A2 or something. This in my opinon has the coolest aid climbing on a route I've ever done. If any one cares for beta I'll drop it. We named it the Platypus to keep with the animal theme of the area. It's beetween Wolf and the Menagerie, with rock unlike anyhting I've seen in Oregon, its kinda like a mammal that lays eggs!

 

dscf2030o.jpg

Tomahawk!!!

 

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Specter!!!

 

dscf2033.jpg

 

dscf2035p.jpg

 

dscf2046m.jpg

 

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Wheres the crack?

 

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Your god damn right I'm going to put three into this shit!!

 

dscf2028.jpg

The route follows the obvious groove in the shadow.

 

 

Posted
Jeeze tough crowd here....

what dog-repecting non-sporto-head climber slums around in or-e-gone anyhow, dood? thought you were pretty much the scene 'rouuuuuuund here! :)

 

steins was well worth the trip - if'n i dragged you along could we keep you sober enoughgt to rig that sweet looking tyrolean? :rawk:

I climbed Beacon Rock, everyone tells me it's the best climbing in Oregon. Pretty sure you can even call it a pinnacle. If I dig through my files, I might even have a photo.
Posted
Meh okay I'll bite... my friend Brian and I did the FA of the Platypus, a crazy tower out there off HW 20 somewhere. Probably like II 5.4 A2 or something. This in my opinon has the coolset aid climbing on a route I've ever done. If any one cares for beta I'll drop it. We named it the Platypus to keep with the animal theme of the area. It's beetween Wolf and the Menagerie, with rock unlike anyhting I've seen in Oregon, its kinda like a mammal that lays eggs!

 

dscf2030o.jpg

Tomahawk!!!

 

dscf2036m.jpg

Specter!!!

 

dscf2033.jpg

 

dscf2035p.jpg

 

dscf2046m.jpg

 

dscf2052w.jpg

Wheres the crack?

 

dscf2044s.jpg

 

dscf2038.jpg

Your god damn right I'm going to put three into this shit!!

 

dscf2028.jpg

The route follows the obvious groove in the shadow.

 

Holy shite, now that's aiding! Nice!!

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