g orton Posted December 21, 2009 Posted December 21, 2009 Bill, I'll bet you didn't know we grew them sideways down here. It makes them harder to stay on. Quote
billcoe Posted December 21, 2009 Posted December 21, 2009 Bill, I'll bet you didn't know we grew them sideways down here. It makes them harder to stay on. LOL!!!! But aren't ya suppose to be on the top part when you encounter one of those sideways monsters? I'll defer to your experience in these matters of course...jus' wondering. ________________________________________________________ Plenty of pinnacles in WA too.... Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too.... Quote
DCramer Posted December 21, 2009 Posted December 21, 2009 Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too.... The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely...... Quote
corvallisclimb Posted December 21, 2009 Author Posted December 21, 2009 Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too.... The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely...... Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted December 21, 2009 Author Posted December 21, 2009 Here's a shot from the Christian Brothers Traverse where you can tag four or five summits in one route. There really is'nt much loose rock on it and if your carefull you wont knock any off. I soloed the reverse traverse, and didnt even knock anything off with ropes all over and what not. The regular way is 5.7 and the reverse is 5.7 A1, I belive the reverse has had only two ascents both solo. So theres no excuse to not get on the traverse. With highly varied climbing, great position and all the summits, why not? Summit of the Monk, Christian Brothers Traverse, Smith Rock Quote
wayne Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 Brad has done it reverse and forwards a bunch. the dude is core solo. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted December 22, 2009 Author Posted December 22, 2009 Ya Brad did the FA I don't know anyone else thats repeated it. He could have done it more than once. So I figured solo was the best way to repeat it for my 23rd birthday. Quote
DCramer Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too.... The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely...... Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake. Thanks. I encouraged Justen to go try and free Shitty Park but at the time his eyes were on longer routes. It's a sweet crack for sure. Say hi to Jake if you see him. Quote
orion_sonya Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 Darryl- By chance did you take those pictures mountain biking? Assuming they're the same, I have always wondered about those little spires - did you hike over to them? Orion Quote
corvallisclimb Posted December 24, 2009 Author Posted December 24, 2009 The Thumb on the Wombat at Smith is probably one of the most obscure summits out there. Either climb Santiam Highway Ledges (5.10a) or Cat Fight Cracks (5.10a X) or make a long involved ridge scramble from the summit of the Wombat. To quote Watt's "Only the most obsessive peak baggers with bother with this silly spire". The Thumb (5.7), Smith Rock Quote
corvallisclimb Posted December 31, 2009 Author Posted December 31, 2009 Bill, thats great! Is it the Witch? Quote
billcoe Posted December 31, 2009 Posted December 31, 2009 You don't recognize it but that's my fat ass.... I'm vowing to lose some weight for the New Years! Quote
corvallisclimb Posted January 3, 2010 Author Posted January 3, 2010 The Main Pillar at the Twin Pillars is a damn hard summit. I belive we climbed "The Campfire Route" F7 A3... It was kinda loose, sorta scary, but well worth it. I don't know anyone else that has climbed the Pillars. My guess is its been under 5 ascents. There was no trace of any rappel slings on the summit. Just one original bolt. Thanks Bryan for ripping it up out there with me! Quote
corvallisclimb Posted January 5, 2010 Author Posted January 5, 2010 wassup???? i know there are like 20+ more people who could contribute to this thread. Quote
JosephH Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 photos above from today at the Callahans, Treasure Island (below), Iron Maiden, one of the mainy still unclimbed spires, and Rodeo Spire. Each is fine grained sandstone, about 100ft tall. Ah, sandstone, now you're talking. That almost looks it's been transported from back home in SoIll or W. Ky. Quote
Mtguide Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 Obviously there's been a big fire at Twin Pillars since I was last there about 8-9 years ago. Anyone know how much of the area burned? Stein's Pillar, Mill Creek canyon? Sorry to see that, it used to be a really pretty place. Quote
luvshaker Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 (edited) I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture.... but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back. There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun. Never heard of "F7" Edited January 5, 2010 by luvshaker Quote
corvallisclimb Posted January 6, 2010 Author Posted January 6, 2010 I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture.... but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back. There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun. Never heard of "F7" ya on the think the south face there is a bolt like 15ft up missing a hanger i dont think there are any more... F7 was before the yos decimal system F = free F10 being the limit. the only spot where twin pillars are written up are in the dodge guide wich uses the original rating system. so ill stick with the original rating Quote
g orton Posted January 9, 2010 Posted January 9, 2010 Some trivia on Acker Rock. We've varified that there is a buckwheat flower variety that has only been found to occur on Acker. http://www.brit.org/fileadmin/Publications/JBotResInstTexas_3_2/639-643_Reveal_EriogonumVillosissimum_JBRIT3_2__21.pdf Quote
beaconben Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 (edited) Awesome thread, thanks contributors and Tyler for starting it up. I agree that pinnacles are kind of Oregon's strength as far as climbing goes, although questionable rock and horrible ancient fixed "bolt ladders" seem to be what these routes have in common. In any case, this thread is a great psyche. Gonna have to hit the Menagerie and Callahan’s this summer and scare the shit out of myself Tyler, have you climbed The Steeple, near Steins. is it easy to find. Sorry I have no photos to post, although you can check out tha Abaxas TR posted in Nov 09. Is the Monument Oregon's largest pinnacle. I Guess that would be Mt Jefferson. Edited January 18, 2010 by beaconben Quote
g orton Posted January 23, 2010 Posted January 23, 2010 Here is a route that should be on every Oregon climber's to do list: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Oregon/Southern_Oregon/Pilot_Rock/Pilot_Rock/Crash_Landing_94216.html Quote
Checat Posted January 23, 2010 Posted January 23, 2010 This route was one of the first 50 I climbed ever, when I first started climbing while going to school in Ashland. Stellar. There are actually a couple satellite pillars near Pilota and a couple of crags sprinkled around the Norcal border some right off I-5, some you have to get on the off roads that run around Hornbrook, the Buddhist Temple etc... some climbed, some not... Quote
g orton Posted February 3, 2010 Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) McKinley Rock Double Chocolate rock, Callahans Mind Planet, Callahans Edited February 3, 2010 by g orton Quote
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