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Posted
Bill,

I'll bet you didn't know we grew them sideways down here.

It makes them harder to stay on.

 

LOL!!!!

 

But aren't ya suppose to be on the top part when you encounter one of those sideways monsters? I'll defer to your experience in these matters of course...jus' wondering. :/

 

________________________________________________________

 

Plenty of pinnacles in WA too....

pinns.jpg

 

Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....

Posted

 

Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....

 

The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......

 

Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.

Posted

Here's a shot from the Christian Brothers Traverse where you can tag four or five summits in one route. There really is'nt much loose rock on it and if your carefull you wont knock any off. I soloed the reverse traverse, and didnt even knock anything off with ropes all over and what not. The regular way is 5.7 and the reverse is 5.7 A1, I belive the reverse has had only two ascents both solo. So theres no excuse to not get on the traverse.

With highly varied climbing, great position and all the summits, why not?

 

birdpoo.jpg

Summit of the Monk, Christian Brothers Traverse, Smith Rock

 

Posted

 

Arrrgghhhh! Bet they're unclimbed too....

 

The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely......

 

Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.

 

Thanks. I encouraged Justen to go try and free Shitty Park but at the time his eyes were on longer routes. It's a sweet crack for sure. Say hi to Jake if you see him.

Posted

The Thumb on the Wombat at Smith is probably one of the most obscure summits out there. Either climb Santiam Highway Ledges (5.10a) or Cat Fight Cracks (5.10a X) or make a long involved ridge scramble from the summit of the Wombat. To quote Watt's "Only the most obsessive peak baggers with bother with this silly spire".

 

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The Thumb (5.7), Smith Rock

Posted

The Main Pillar at the Twin Pillars is a damn hard summit. I belive we climbed "The Campfire Route" F7 A3... It was kinda loose, sorta scary, but well worth it. I don't know anyone else that has climbed the Pillars. My guess is its been under 5 ascents. There was no trace of any rappel slings on the summit. Just one original bolt. Thanks Bryan for ripping it up out there with me!

 

twin.jpg

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summittwin.jpg

twinnorthridge.jpg

Posted

photos above from today at the Callahans, Treasure Island (below), Iron Maiden, one of the mainy still unclimbed spires, and Rodeo Spire. Each is fine grained sandstone, about 100ft tall.TreasureIsland2.jpg

Ah, sandstone, now you're talking. That almost looks it's been transported from back home in SoIll or W. Ky.

 

So_Ill_Pockets.jpg

 

 

Posted

Obviously there's been a big fire at Twin Pillars since I was last there about 8-9 years ago. Anyone know how much of the area burned? Stein's Pillar, Mill Creek canyon? Sorry to see that, it used to be a really pretty place.

Posted (edited)

I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....

but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.

There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.

 

Never heard of "F7"

Edited by luvshaker
Posted
I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture....

but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back.

There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun.

 

Never heard of "F7"

 

ya on the think the south face there is a bolt like 15ft up missing a hanger i dont think there are any more... F7 was before the yos decimal system F = free F10 being the limit. the only spot where twin pillars are written up are in the dodge guide wich uses the original rating system. so ill stick with the original rating :crosseye:

Posted (edited)

Awesome thread, thanks contributors and Tyler for starting it up. I agree that pinnacles are kind of Oregon's strength as far as climbing goes, although questionable rock and horrible ancient fixed "bolt ladders" seem to be what these routes have in common.

 

In any case, this thread is a great psyche. Gonna have to hit the Menagerie and Callahan’s this summer and scare the shit out of myself

 

Tyler, have you climbed The Steeple, near Steins. is it easy to find.

 

Sorry I have no photos to post, although you can check out tha Abaxas TR posted in Nov 09. Is the Monument Oregon's largest pinnacle. I Guess that would be Mt Jefferson.

Edited by beaconben
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

This route was one of the first 50 I climbed ever, when I first started climbing while going to school in Ashland. Stellar. There are actually a couple satellite pillars near Pilota and a couple of crags sprinkled around the Norcal border some right off I-5, some you have to get on the off roads that run around Hornbrook, the Buddhist Temple etc... some climbed, some not...

  • 2 weeks later...

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