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kevbone

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Just spoke with the park to clarify and was told the rock will be open to climbing and the signage changed out at the park's normal 8am open time.
So to clarify, no one can be out there until 8am on July 13th, yet you are out there replacing things that don't need replacing? At 9pm? On July 12th? By who's authority do you do such things? Nothing was in need of replacing! Slings are fine and I can't imagine there is a bolt in need of attention on any of the trade routes. The Beacon Rock Climbing Association never knew of any of this! What kind of sideshow do you think you are running here? Stay the hell away you mental case and quite screwing with routes!!!!
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So to clarify, no one can be out there until 8am on July 13th, yet you are out there replacing things that don't need replacing? At 9pm? On July 12th? By who's authority do you do such things? Nothing was in need of replacing! Slings are fine and I can't imagine there is a bolt in need of attention on any of the trade routes. The Beacon Rock Climbing Association never knew of any of this! What kind of sideshow do you think you are running here? Stay the hell away you mental case and quite screwing with routes!!!!

 

Kenny what the hell are you talking about. Give me a call. If this crap is true it is total BS. I am in a mood anyway. I am busy on my route on The Steeple and will not be out to Beacon until it is done. Like I said give me a call. Have fun out there guys.

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No, Bill, I think it reads exactly as he intended...

 

Just spoke with the park to clarify and was told the rock will be open

to climbing and the signage changed out at the park's normal 8am open time.

So to clarify, no one can be out there until 8am on July 13th, yet you are out there replacing things

that don't need replacing? At 9pm? On July 12th? By who's authority do you do such things?

Nothing was in need of replacing! Slings are fine and I can't imagine there is a bolt in need of

attention on any of the trade routes. The Beacon Rock Climbing Association never knew of any of this!

What kind of sideshow do you think you are running here? Stay the hell away you mental case and quite

screwing with routes!!!!

Ah, your endless cluelessness and compulsion to post one basic mistatement of fact after another on

rabid display -- always entertaining.

 

Yes, I had 'authority' from the BRSP to be out there on Thursday night to do anchor maintenance

and the usual survey for anything big which might be loose and pose a threat to trains. And, in fact

(and god knows how those escape you), the anchors on the main rap line were overdue for being

replaced. I know, because I bought and did all 68 anchor replacements out there and have been

maintaining the slings on them all ever since and do actually know when a given set of slings went in and

which ones need to be replaced each year - i.e. you have no fucking idea what you are talking about.

 

The only 'sideshow' being run at the moment is the BRCA which was reconvened for the sole purpose

of trying to get the closure amended or lifted, which isn't going to happen. Are you really so

clueless as to think that setting up a facebook page somehow instantly gives you a track record

of getting stuff done, trusted working relationships, or any 'authority' of any kind whatsoever out there?

Man, talk about needing a serious reality check.

 

Dude, it takes years to establish cooperative working relationships built on mutual trust, respect, and

understanding. And note the emphasis on "mutual trust and respect", something utterly and

hopelessly lost to you and yours - as in you are never going to get it. And do you honestly think

a couple of frigging' web pages filled with shit none of you even actually believe in somehow

paves the way for you to dictate anything whatsoever out there? Hey, it doesn't.

 

And just what has the BRCA ponied up and done so far? Let's make a list why don't we:

 

* Scheduled and completed any cooperative work of any kind with the BRSP or any of the other Beacon

volunteer groups? Nope.

 

* Monitored the Peregrines for the open date? (and the log of each session would have made such boss

facebook posts) Nope, never saw a BRCAer with in a miles of the place every time I was out burning

good climbing hours sitting there monitoring.

 

* Schedule a pre-open rock survey and anchor work? Clearly not.

 

* Call and offer to help the now beleaguered park staff (Ben is no longer a ranger as of earlier this

month [but then you knew that because of your steady working relationship with the BRSP, right?]) change

over the signage which is solely for our benefit? What's that you say? Nope, of course not.

 

* Surveyed and inventoried all the anchors so you'll know what's what and what needs to be

done when? You already answered that one.

 

So the reason I was up there and not you was because I gave a shit enough to establish a now long-standing,

trusted working relationship with the BRSP and it's people that's built on mutual trust, respect

and understanding (and a bit of empathy) with the park. And you guys? You guys have a web page

of demands for 'the man'.

 

So, if the past sixteen years have proven anything it's that - yes indeedy - there are some mental

cases about who:

 

* Are constantly and relentlessly working against their own best interests

 

* Intent on jeopardizing early opens by threatening and making demands of the very people they should be

trying to establish long-term working relationships with

 

* Generally thrash the place because they can't be bothered to clean up their messes

 

* Can't be bothered invest time to do anything of any real substance

 

* Who still think what happens out there is no one's business but 'ours'

 

* And who still (always) think anyone with an honest relationship with 'the man' is a traitor

 

Yeah, there are some 'mental cases' out there all right and sometimes going climbing out there is

like a veritable mental health version of "In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king".

 

The diagnosis? Incurable cluelessness, relentless paranoia, disinterest in getting well, severe

self-esteem and anger management issues, and a profound and uncontrolled compulsion to publicly

self-destruct with pithy internet posts.

 

All-in-all, same as it ever was...

 

P.S. Oh, and the only reason you even know I was out there was a couple of otherwise well-intended

BRCAers ignored the signage and broke the closure in order to poach a late night go of the Corner -

not really going to build the BRCA any cred if you can't keep your own membership in line.

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Just spoke with the park to clarify and was told the rock will be open to climbing and the signage changed out at the park's normal 8am open time.
So to clarify, no one can be out there until 8am on July 13th, yet you are out there replacing things that don't need replacing? At 9pm? On July 12th? By who's authority do you do such things? Nothing was in need of replacing! Slings are fine and I can't imagine there is a bolt in need of attention on any of the trade routes. The Beacon Rock Climbing Association never knew of any of this! What kind of sideshow do you think you are running here? Stay the hell away you mental case and quite screwing with routes!!!!

Ah, your endless cluelessness and compulsion to post one basic mistatement of fact after another on rabid display -- always entertaining.

 

Yes, I had 'authority' from the BRSP to be out there on Thursday night to do anchor maintenance and the usual survey for anything big which might be loose and pose a threat to trains. And, in fact (and god knows how those escape you), the anchors on the main rap line were overdue for being replaced. I know, because I bought and did all the anchor replacements out there and have been maintaining the slings on them all ever since and know when set of slings went in and which ones need to be replaced each year - i.e. you have no fucking idea what you are talking about.

 

The only 'sideshow' being run at the moment is the BRCA which was only reconvened for the sole purpose of trying to get the closure amended or lifted, which isn't going to happen. Are you really so clueless as to think that setting up a facebook page somehow instantly gives you a track record or getting stuff done, trusted working relationships, or any 'authority' of any kind whatsoever?

 

Dude, it takes years to build cooperative working relationship built on mutual trust, respect, and understanding. And note the emphasis on "mutual trust and respect", something utterly and hopelessly lost to you and yours - as in you are never going to get it. And do you honestly think a couple of frigging' web pages filled with shit none of you even actually believe in somehow paves the way for you dictate anything whatsoever out there? Hey, it doesn't.

 

And just what as the BRCA ponied up and done so far? Let's make a list why don't we:

 

* Scheduled and completed any cooperative work of any kind with the BRSP or any of the other Beacon volunteer groups? Nope.

 

* Monitored the Peregrines for the open date (and the log of each session would have made such boss facebook posts)? Nope, never saw a BRCAer with in a miles of the place every time I was out burning climbing good hours sitting there monitoring.

 

* Schedule a pre-open rock survey and anchor work? Clearly not. Call and offer to help the now beleagured (Ben is no longer a ranger as of earlier this month [but then you knew that because of your steady working relationship with the BRSP, right?]) park staff change over the signage solely for our benefit? What's that you say? Nope, of course not.

 

* Surveyed and inventoried all the anchors so you'll know what's what and what needs to be done when? You already answered that one.

 

So the reason I was up there and not your was because I gave a shit enough to establish a now long-standing, trusted working relationship with the BRSP and it's people that's built on mutual trust, respect and understanding (and a bit of empathy) with the park. And you guys? You guys have a web page of demands for 'the man'.

 

So, if the past sixteen years have proven anything it's that - yes indeedy - there are some mental cases about who:

 

* Are constantly and relentlessly working against their own best interests

 

* Intent on jeopardizing early opens by threaten the very people they should be trying to establish relationships with

 

* Generally thrash the place because they can't be bothered to clean up their messes

 

* Can't be bothered invest time to do anything of any real substance

 

* Who still think what happens out there is no one's business but 'ours'

 

* And who still (always) think anyone with an honest relationship with 'the man' is a traitor

 

Yeah, there are some 'mental cases' out there all right and sometimes going climbing out there is like a veritable mental health version of "In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king".

 

The diagnosis? Incurable cluelessness, relentless paranoia, disinterest in getting well, severe self-esteem and anger management issues, and a profound and uncontrolled compulsion to publicly self-destruct with pithy internet posts.

 

All-in-all, same as it ever was...

 

P.S. Oh, and the only reason you even know I was out there was a couple of otherwise well-intended BRCAers ignored the signage and broke the closure in order to poach a late night go of the Corner - not really going to build the BRCA any cred if they can't keep their own membership in line.

 

Joseph, you smoke hash on Beacon Rock, which really doesn't give you much CRED as an ambassador out at Beacon. Stop being so full of shit FFS :)

 

 

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Joseph, you smoke hash on Beacon Rock, which really doesn't give you much CRED as an ambassador out at Beacon.

Stop being so full of shit FFS :)

Andrew, thanks for yet another totally illuminating post which pretty much cuts right to the heart of the spirit involved with you guys and

how you think and operate.

 

I'm an ambassador for no one but myself but after sixteen years of it I just have low tolerance for relentless bullshit these days, especially

after one low slander after another.

 

But do please keep posting up more keen insights from Colorado that show just how petty and low you guys are willing to sink to.

 

A typical Beacon opening, c'est la vie. Anyone else? Feel free as I'm clearly the one who's responsible for the rock closing every year...

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Great seeing everyone today. Kenny I kicked your car today thinking you were in it....but apparently you were ahead of me and my partner on Young Warriors. Felt ssooooooooo good to be back at my church. Hiked young warriors. Walked off then the corner to make a killer opening day.

 

BTW on the second pitch of YW's the birds swooped me.....about 10 up from my head. Very impressive birds.

 

Great seeing you today Bill.

 

Kevin

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Joseph, you smoke hash on Beacon Rock, which really doesn't give you much CRED as an ambassador out at Beacon.

Stop being so full of shit FFS :)

Andrew, thanks for yet another totally illuminating post which pretty much cuts right to the heart of the spirit involved with you guys and

how you think and operate.

 

I'm an ambassador for no one but myself but after sixteen years of it I just have low tolerance for relentless bullshit these days, especially

after one low slander after another.

 

But do please keep posting up more keen insights from Colorado that show just how petty and low you guys are willing to sink to.

 

A typical Beacon opening, c'est la vie. Anyone else? Feel free as I'm clearly the one who's responsible for the rock closing every year...

 

 

you are very welcome mister :) and tell me just how i have slandered you?

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Joseph, you smoke hash on Beacon Rock, which really doesn't give you much CRED as an ambassador out at Beacon.

Stop being so full of shit FFS :)

Andrew, thanks for yet another totally illuminating post which pretty much cuts right to the heart of the spirit involved with you guys and

how you think and operate.

 

I'm an ambassador for no one but myself but after sixteen years of it I just have low tolerance for relentless bullshit these days, especially

after one low slander after another.

 

But do please keep posting up more keen insights from Colorado that show just how petty and low you guys are willing to sink to.

 

A typical Beacon opening, c'est la vie. Anyone else? Feel free as I'm clearly the one who's responsible for the rock closing every year...

 

 

you are very welcome mister :) and tell me just how i have slandered you?

Have you ever re-read your own posts in this regard? Just sayin...
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Joseph, you smoke hash on Beacon Rock, which really doesn't give you much CRED as an ambassador out at Beacon.

Stop being so full of shit FFS :)

Andrew, thanks for yet another totally illuminating post which pretty much cuts right to the heart of the spirit involved with you guys and

how you think and operate.

 

I'm an ambassador for no one but myself but after sixteen years of it I just have low tolerance for relentless bullshit these days, especially

after one low slander after another.

 

But do please keep posting up more keen insights from Colorado that show just how petty and low you guys are willing to sink to.

 

A typical Beacon opening, c'est la vie. Anyone else? Feel free as I'm clearly the one who's responsible for the rock closing every year...

 

 

you are very welcome mister :) and tell me just how i have slandered you?

Have you ever re-read your own posts in this regard? Just sayin...

 

you have the right to "just say" anything you want :)

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What a great weekend!

 

Opening day-- Lap on the corner with Bill and Tim O. Then I met this nice guy, Stewart. We ran another lap on the corner and then hit Jill's Thrill. Then the white boyz finally made it down and did another lap on the corner. Slept through Dave's deep-fried shindig.

 

Saturday-- Towed the rope to the base of Ben's FA project and proceeded to nap on a tiny ledge with a great view of the gorge.

 

Sunday-- Climbing porn with Ivan and Dod's to Big Legde.

 

What a blast! Thanks folks!

 

Waud you all get on this fine opening weekend?

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right on there, phuzzy boy, keep it light n' breezy!

 

fuck the politics, keep this thread to what you did?

 

7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam

 

7/15 - dod's jam

 

flying swallow next?

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...you are very welcome mister :) and tell me just how i have slandered you?

I've never seen you stoop to slander - that was a reference to a couple of others who have difficulty distinguishing the noise in their heads and what they wish were true from reality and fact. When you stoop, it's mainly just inane most of the time.

 

Glad everyone enjoyed Friday and Saturday which were only open due to Karl and David being way, way more gracious and kind then they had any reason to be given recent circumstances.

 

 

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My partner and I are planning on climbing all of YW's with out clipping any of the bolts including the anchors next time we are out. Should be a good time.

 

He actually agreed with me that the two bolts on the second pitch are unnecessary and that the one place where one could justify a bolt (right under the butthole) there is no bolt.

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I've climbed YW at least a few dozen times without clipping a single bolt, all doing the crux on p4. It's a far different, exciting and bolder experience which is truer to the potential of the line.

 

On the other hand, during my headlampless, full-moon goes of it I clip every single bolt so wouldn't complain about them beyond encouraging folks to do what you are contemplating to get a feel for the difference.

 

[ P.S. We'll have to agree to disagree - there is no justification or need for a bolt under the butthole... ]

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JH. Do you clip any of the pitons on your boltless accent?

I've done boltless both with and without the pins - when I do clip any it's usually the upper of the two p3 crux pins and the big one below the p4 crux. The short spike pin low on the p1 and the medium angle in the zig-zags mid-p4 are both set as well as can be, but I wouldn't count on either holding a fall of any distance. The one at 2/3rds up p1 is solid, but unnecessary and I don't normally ever clip it. The one on the short p5 is bomb, but not really necessary either so I rarely clip it except on the night runs.

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Took the kiddos out to the corner for the first time yesterday. They did pretty good for beginners. My oldest (9) made it about half way up the first pitch, much further than I had expected.

 

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Ran the corner myself today at a snails pace of 55 minutes car to car. At this rate, my fat ass may as well go bowling or take up golf... :P

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