Beacon

[Kletterhund]

Which rope solo gizmo are you using? Silent Partner?

[denalidave]

Which rope solo gizmo are you using? Silent Partner?

No, I borrowed a SP from Bill Coe about a year ago but never really trusted the damn thing. I bought an Eddy, like JH uses. Like most belay devices, it is "not recommended for rope soloing" but seems to be better than a modified GriGri. Still getting the kinks ironed out of my system, but I was averaging about a half-hour a pitch (so about an hour a pitch once I re-climbed to clean each pitch). Sure is a hell of a lot more work than just free-soloing. I suppose a bit safer, though...

[wayne]

Will probably just go do YW if not. Another thought, if someone else is willing, is to go around left of Jensens Ridge and whack a section out of the base of the big oak vines over on stellar routes like 'Lay Lady Lay' and 'Rip City'.

 

Nice! Did this happen?

[kevbone]

Will probably just go do YW if not. Another thought, if someone else is willing, is to go around left of Jensens Ridge and whack a section out of the base of the big oak vines over on stellar routes like 'Lay Lady Lay' and 'Rip City'.

 

Nice! Did this happen?

 

 

Second that?

[kevbone]

Hahah, he calls his first rope solo in this video 5.6. It is the first pitch of Young Warriors. Anyone else think it is 5.6?

 

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aMKvykdbpA

[kevbone]

 

Ivan on Dastardly.

 

You guys are standing on the fucking birds home. Dont you care?

 

[video:youtube]

[ivan]

naw, that a'nt their home, more like thier sun porch -their boudiorre is but 30 paces off, past the privy

 

they didn't seem shy about sharing last weekend

[denalidave]

Another fine slab o bacon today. YW was plenty windy. I was feeling pretty solid and confident about my climbing abilities today, right up till the time I left the ground... Ah, good times.

 

 

[pink]

Hahah, he calls his first rope solo in this video 5.6. It is the first pitch of Young Warriors. Anyone else think it is 5.6?

 

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aMKvykdbpA

 

 

i think there r 5.6 moves on it

[denalidave]

Hahah, he calls his first rope solo in this video 5.6. It is the first pitch of Young Warriors. Anyone else think it is 5.6?

 

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aMKvykdbpA

 

 

i think there r 5.6 moves on it

5.6+.

[pink]

sustained 5.6

[LostCamKenny]

sustained 5.6

 

5.7- in the 50mph gusts

[denalidave]

5.6d+

[pink]

5a

[ivan]

13--

[kevbone]

I give it 5.8 to onsight for your average climber.

[stevetimetravlr]

Guys, the reason I said it was 5.6 in the video was because I thought I was on Broadway from looking in the old guidebook. Only later did I find out I was on Young Warriors. At the time I thought it seemed a little stiff for a 5.6, but contributed it to messing with my solo device and backup knots. Now I've done Young Warriors about 5 times and I think the grades are..

pitch 1- 5.8

pitch 2- 5.9 PG

pitch 3- 5.9+(if there weren't 2 fixed pins, this section I would say 10a as you would have to hang out and place gear)

pitch 4- 5.9

pitch 5- 5.7

What a awesome route.

[kevbone]

Pitch 4, 5.9? Do you go straight up over the bolt? I always have given that a solid 10.a move. IMO

[stevetimetravlr]

I guess I go straight over the bolt,on that featureless slab you mean? The move is so short it doens't seem to qualify when there are climbs like Blownout at Beacon rated 10a. but then i don't think Blownout should be rated 10a, I think its more like 10c, that final traverse move at the top.

Edited January 29, 2010 by stevetimetravlr

[JosephH]

By Eldo or Gunks standards it would be more like:

 

p1 - 5.7+

p2 - 5.8+

p3 - 5.8+ (one move)

p4 - 5.10a or 5.7

p5 - 5.6

 

Onsight, not knowing the moves, it feels like 5.10 in a number of spots that also feel sketchy. Once you know all the moves it's more like a continuous 5.6 punctuated with the occasional 5.7-8 move and a one-move 5.10a boulder problem.

[JosephH]

Will probably just go do YW if not. Another thought, if someone else is willing, is to go around left of Jensens Ridge and whack a section out of the base of the big oak vines over on stellar routes like 'Lay Lady Lay' and 'Rip City'.

Nice! Did this happen?

Second that?

Jeff Thomas and I talked about it, but on doing the rap on my own with that intent I discovered that they aren't single oak vines, but rather a seperate plant about every six inches with many of them totally compressed in the crack and filling it in from plant to plant. They also appear to be rooted way back in the cracks as well. So that part of my plan was a bust.

 

The anchors also sucked and I ended up leaving six draws on them which helped, but not that much. Jeff and I then went back last weekend and replaced those three anchors. We're regrouping on the oak part and probably will attack them next winter one way or the other and get the other couple of anchors as well.

[ivan]

there must be at least 30 of these yw estimations to be had here

[billcoe]

Most folks walking right up to it and leading it first time would call it 5.8. I've heard 5.9 too. I have not heard anyone doing it for the first time say anything less that that. Later, having sussed out the rests and the moves, the rating would drop more than most routes you have wired.

 

Are we discussing it so that the guidebook can list it correctly?

[billcoe]

Oh, here we are. Daaaaa Beacon!

 

[kevbone]

By Eldo or Gunks standards it would be more like:

 

p1 - 5.7+

p2 - 5.8+

p3 - 5.8+ (one move)

p4 - 5.10a or 5.7

p5 - 5.6

 

Onsight, not knowing the moves, it feels like 5.10 in a number of spots that also feel sketchy. Once you know all the moves it's more like a continuous 5.6 punctuated with the occasional 5.7-8 move and a one-move 5.10a boulder problem.

 

How about Beacon standards?

Please explain the + sign. To me it means that every move is the grade in which you give it or the very least sustained. Which we both know none of the pitches on YW are sustained.