Taluscat Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 do pullups off the floor after a rough night count-i do lots of those! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I do the fireman hose grip pull ups from a vertically hanging rope that is drapped twice over and is a 7mm rope for my hand grip strength...about 5 x 5 then individual pull ups on the sloper and edges of my hangboard...4 x 5...then I do dynamic moves on the hangboard starting on the small edge to sloper to medium edge to sloper to large edge to sloper to medium edge to sloper...I'm only at this every other day...started it after I went to Slesse and..... Then I throw on a pack and do 5 pull ups currently on the jugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 ...and is a 7mm rope for my hand grip strength... Could be wrong and I'm an admittedly really old guy, but that sort of thing sounds like a really bad idea from a finger and hand longevity perspective Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Wouldn't it be better idea to do pullups off a basketball or something, for your sloper strength? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Wouldn't it be better idea to do pullups off a basketball or something, for your sloper strength? Â or just climb on slopers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 ...and is a 7mm rope for my hand grip strength... Could be wrong and I'm an admittedly really old guy, but that sort of thing sounds like a really bad idea from a finger and hand longevity perspective  Not sure if it's bad...it feels great for now...however it is looped twice and I use a lot of chalk. I'll check to see if WebMD has anything....or are there any trainers looking at this thinking the same thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Take it easy on your body and hands when you are younger, as when you get older you will very much appreciate it and still be able to climb. Some things you do in your youth, you think they make you tough, but they end up messing you up permenantly, and you don't realize it until much later when no circulation or can't bend your fingers or have arthritis or your dick falls off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Take it easy on your body and hands when you are younger, as when you get older you will very much appreciate it and still be able to climb. Some things you do in your youth, you think they make you tough, but they end up messing you up permenantly, and you don't realize it until much later when no circulation or can't bend your fingers or have arthritis or your dick falls off. Â Well, damn good thing my dick has yet to fall off...my wife would leave me. I'm already 30 ...I already have a permanently dislocated thumb from skateboarding into a Pete Rose slide down a hill....I don't think I'll be climbing when I'm 90 anyways....I'm not Fred Becky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Eric Horst claims in his writings that the if you can do 10 pull-ups in a row, that is good enough for high-end climbing and anything beyond that has little added value and might be a determent as you put on muscle mass. Â Any thoughts? Â it depends on what he means by "high-end climbing" and the type of route. i'd say anything steeper than vert, and above mid 5.12, you'll have a much easier time if you don't max out at 10 pull-ups, in general. Â i can't think of anyone i know who climbs 5.13 or above who couldn't do more than 10 pull-ups....but the inverse is of course not true: having a high pull-up max doesn't mean one can climb well.... Â also disagree with his "added muscle" with a higher max. i don't think doing high rep pull-up sets builds big muscles, or non-functional muscles. at least i haven't seen this happen. Â Â look at haston: 52 years old and rp'd 14d, and does supposedly up to 2,000 pull-ups a day, sets of 20. hard to argue with his results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RokIzGud Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 WTF??? Â [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Holy Shit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 but can he lead 5.10? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I don't want to be the guy to tell him he can't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 good point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I can usually bang out about 20 on a normal day and 25-28 on my best days. Last year when I was really putting in the effort and training hard, I was doing reps of 30 and just breaking into one-hand pullups - about 3 on each arm. Can't do a single one right now though. Â As a reference: 6'2", 185lbs, 5.8-5.9 trad leader in the gunks (5.9-5.10 everywhere else) and hard 5.11 sport leader at major East Coast crags (NRG and Rumney, mostly). Follow WI4, never done any lead on ice though. Age 25, been climbing on and off about 8 years. Been climbing ice for about 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 The question here would be are they dead hang fingers out on a door trim header, I can do just 10 of those but then I am a fat old man. When I ask a young friend if he wanted to comp some dead hang pull-ups on a bar he said that those were too hard on his shoulders  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I have just a few comments on this (haven't read all the posts though): Â 1)I have watched many people do pullups who cheat (not full extension at the bottom and don't go chin over the bar). If you want to quote numbers you have to do them proper. Â 2)Frenchies and lock offs seem to be more applicable to climbing. Â 3)I went through a pullup regimen and ended up with elbow tendinitis- I recovered but never go beyond parallel of upper arm to the floor as beyond it really stresses the joints and tendons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I can usually bang out about 20 on a normal day and 25-28 on my best days. Last year when I was really putting in the effort and training hard, I was doing reps of 30 and just breaking into one-hand pullups - about 3 on each arm. Can't do a single one right now though. As a reference: 6'2", 185lbs, 5.8-5.9 trad leader in the gunks (5.9-5.10 everywhere else) and hard 5.11 sport leader at major East Coast crags (NRG and Rumney, mostly). Follow WI4, never done any lead on ice though. Age 25, been climbing on and off about 8 years. Been climbing ice for about 2 weeks.  Wow, that's an argument for training hand strength rather than pullups right there. No offense, but if you've been climbing for that long and you enjoy training that much, you could be climbing 13s without too much trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I have just a few comments on this (haven't read all the posts though):Â 1)I have watched many people do pullups who cheat (not full extension at the bottom and don't go chin over the bar). If you want to quote numbers you have to do them proper. Â 2)Frenchies and lock offs seem to be more applicable to climbing. Â 3)I went through a pullup regimen and ended up with elbow tendinitis- I recovered but never go beyond parallel of upper arm to the floor as beyond it really stresses the joints and tendons. Â yeah some of the things i've seen people do that they call pull-ups.... pretty funny. either half pulls, or these crazy swinging things where they kip their body like mad. Â i do speed half pulls for training, both top half and bottom half, but they aren't full pull-ups (of which i can do around 30 with good form and extension). Â i also do high pulls, where i pull my body as high as i can (without rocking over into a muscle up), and then try to hold it there for a bit. i do feel the stress in my elbows, but nothing that has turned into injury. i could see someone getting effed up by them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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