telemarker Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 (edited) Trip: Bitch Slapped by Peter Croft - Stuart Range traverse attempt Date: 9/12/2009 Trip Report: How the hell did he do it? Croft must be superhuman. Or I'm a crap climber. Both explanations are correct. I guess the purtiy of it was doomed from the beginning as soon as I drove and parked near the trailhead. By the time I got above Stuart Lake, I had made the decision not to start my climb on the lower ridge, since I wasn't entirely sure about free-soloing the 2nd pitch, which is a bit insecure finger/thin hand crack. Plus, I was already getting winded. So I wimped out and headed for the notch. From there, the climbing was dreamy as usual entirely absent of other climbers The gendarme pitches went off great. I summitted at a decent hour in the day, psyched to get over to Sherpa, then Argonaut then Colchuck. Turns out I was actually on crack. I summitted Sherpa Peak about 1 hour 45 minutes after summitting Stuart. I had run out of water by the time I was 1/2 way to Argonaut. I was sluggish and totally dehydrated, with the bonk not far behind. I dragged ass back to Sherpa/Argonaut Col and retreated to water and the trail, wondering in amazement at Croft's accomplishment all the way down to Mountaineer's Basin. Despite the lackluster effort, I was pleased to get at least Sherpa in, as I had never summitted it before. The approach from Stuart really is pretty good. For the number crunchers out there: Left Car: 3:00am Stuart's Notch: 8:00am Gendarme: 8:45am Summit Stuart: 9:30am Summit Sherpa: 11:11am Sherpa/Argonaut Col: 12:47pm Car: 6:09pm From the Notch, looking east: The best two pitches of the day: Summit in perfect early fall weather: Sherpa Summit. I carry the balanced rock on my shoulder whenever I go out climbing: Looking back at the summit of Stuart: Gear Notes: Chalkbag, shoes, and not enough water. 60m, 7mm static bail/rap line (not used). Approach Notes: Stuart Lake Approach, Sherpa/Argonaut deproach. Edited September 14, 2009 by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Wow! Way to get after it!!!! Thanks for sharing it. How much elevation do you think that was....looks like a high mileage day for sure, superman would have approved:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 being bitch slapped by croft is not such a bad thing, possibly a noble thing. Being bitch slapped by me would be a disgrace. Awesome job on getting it done! Especially the gendarme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokogirl Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Way to push the envelope! Yeah, approaching Sherpa that way works well. How was the descent off of Sherpa? Any route finding issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 To make the bitch slapping even worse, Croft started from the main road due to transportation issues, hiking to the Stuart Lake trailhead in the dark and getting hassled by the man on the way due to concerns about car prowling at the time. The image of mild mannered Peter negotiating with the rentacop while on the verge of an epic free solo linkup remains amusing. Rentacop had no idea who he was talking to and his biggest adventure that day was probably cracking a PBR. Nonetheless, we can't all be Croft and your trip was proud and I'm sure highly enjoyable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 I have a funny story about an attempt at the traverse. To make a long story short I repeated the traverse with a partner and rope in 29 hours. My friend had never climbed in the Stuart Range (or with me for that matter) before: he got quite the tour. Dehydrated and sun stroked in between Stuart and Colchuck, he began skipping summits, instead going around as I tagged the peaks. About 6 miles from the Snow Lake's trail head we stopped and slept for a while, our 24 hour mark goal sliding away. When I asked my buddy to climb a week later, he politely refused. It was a bit traumatizing for him (I don't blame him) I can't wait to try again, alone. One thing I learned about this objective is that solo is the only way to go. Nice work again John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Don't feel bad cuz you're in good company, Wayne 1112 got spanked on this one also. Wayne's TR So how much water was "not enough water"? I was looking for an account of the Traverse by Croft on the web and can't find it. Only that it's 6 peaks and about 6 or 7 miles of climbing. These are the peaks Stuart Sherpa Argonaut Colchuck Dragontail Prussick and it was in July so 16 hrs of daylight compared to 13 now. Since it's hotter in July you would need like an overcast day. He did it in '89, I don't think Camelbacks were in use at that time. I know the guys that do the speed ascents in the valley use Camelbacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 (edited) Way to push the envelope! Yeah, approaching Sherpa that way works well. How was the descent off of Sherpa? Any route finding issues? I downclimbed to the east from the summit for the descent. There weren't any issues in terms of route finding, since the easiest path through was on or near the crest. That made decisions pretty simple. Edited September 13, 2009 by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 I have a funny story about an attempt at the traverse. To make a long story short I repeated the traverse with a partner and rope in 29 hours. My friend had never climbed in the Stuart Range (or with me for that matter) before: he got quite the tour. Dehydrated and sun stroked in between Stuart and Colchuck, he began skipping summits, instead going around as I tagged the peaks. About 6 miles from the Snow Lake's trail head we stopped and slept for a while, our 24 hour mark goal sliding away. When I asked my buddy to climb a week later, he politely refused. It was a bit traumatizing for him (I don't blame him) I can't wait to try again, alone. One thing I learned about this objective is that solo is the only way to go. Nice work again John. Wow. The problem with your friend's skipping summits is that as far as I got, it would have been more exhausting below the crest. I found the smoothest route was either on the crest or just below it. The scrub larches were a hastle. I would need younger legs for this one to come true! Or a gallon of water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 very cool.... livin life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cascadesdj Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 I know another very good climber that tried this, but used the Ingalls approach and ran out of time/water at around the same location, and had to bail down to Ingalls Creek. It seems to be a common experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowell_Skoog Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I bet you can get water a lot more easily in July than September, especially this year. Snow in a dromedary bag strapped outside your pack would melt pretty quickly. Also, 9/12/09 was a very warm day. (Seattle broke a record with a high of 87F.) So don't feel too bad. Still, there's no denying how amazing Croft's climb was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I have a funny story about an attempt at the traverse. To make a long story short I repeated the traverse with a partner and rope in 29 hours. If you can do it in 29 hrs roped you should def be able to break 24 hrs solo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Nice dude, a little bird told me that you were going to go try that. As Lowell said, earlier in the year there would be more water available, but it could be harder to get your confidence and endurance to the right level by July. I had a long day of my own this summer, Goode in a day. I think that going solo helps on this kind of thing because energy levels can go way up and way down over the course of a long day, so one minute you can be hardly moving and the next you are crusing. I could see that causing issues. On the other hand the moral support of having someone else there could be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I had a long day of my own this summer, Goode in a day. That is incredible. Did you do the NE Buttress? How did you approach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 strong effort. nice day's work nonetheless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Nice job on the Gendarme, John!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 Nice job on the Gendarme, John!. Thanks Pete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 strong effort. nice day's work nonetheless. Gracias Jefe! Nice meeting you guys last week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I had a long day of my own this summer, Goode in a day. That is incredible. Did you do the NE Buttress? How did you approach? Yeah, I sent you a pm Dan. Rainy Pass and Bridge Creek to NEB and out via Park to Bridge. Not really a day, but 10 minutes over (good enough for me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 Nice dude, a little bird told me that you were going to go try that. As Lowell said, earlier in the year there would be more water available, but it could be harder to get your confidence and endurance to the right level by July. I had a long day of my own this summer, Goode in a day. I think that going solo helps on this kind of thing because energy levels can go way up and way down over the course of a long day, so one minute you can be hardly moving and the next you are crusing. I could see that causing issues. On the other hand the moral support of having someone else there could be nice. Holy crap. I've never been to Goode, but from what I understand that's a huge solo day. The psychological deal breaker for me was being in a state of dehydration and knowing I had close access to an easy descent with plentiful water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 way more than i'd have in me! mad props man...glad you were able to lock down sherpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxhasson Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Didn't Croft run up Outer Space on his way out? Maybe just a myth, pretty badass warm down though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 so...did you take crampons? How did you get off Stuart? Rapell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 so...did you take crampons? How did you get off Stuart? Rapell? The descent down Stuart over to Sherpa is a scree slide only. I had lightweight crampons for the glacier crossing. No axe needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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