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Juan

What to climb

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I need ideas for a weekday day trip this week. Alpine to mid-fifth. Don't mind hiking up to 8 miles each way or so. Help me out guys and gals. I'm having brain lock and can't think of anything original.

 

Sharp

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No cell phone this time, dude; pre-order your helo rescue before you go. It's a pilot Forest Service program.

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quote:

Originally posted by chucK:

But this time in a day
[Wink]

 

So are you soliciting for solo-climb or "regular"-climb ideas?

Solo Climbs

-Stuart, (skip the gendarme)

-Forbidden, West Ridge

-Torment/Forbidden Traverse

 

Partner Climbs

-SEWS, Southwest Rib

-Chainti Spire, East Face

-Mt Si, Haystack

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quote:

Originally posted by Juan:

I need ideas for a weekday day trip this week. Alpine to mid-fifth. Don't mind hiking up to 8 miles each way or so. Help me out guys and gals. I'm having brain lock and can't think of anything original.

 

Sharp

E wilman's spire (headed there tomorrow with Tim L), Vesper peak N Face, Thompson W Ridge, Ingalls Peak N Ridge and S Face (do both, otherwise the walk is too long), Kangaroo Temple N Face or SW Face, Liberty Bell NW Face...

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N Face of Burgundy

 

E Wilmans Spire

 

[ 09-09-2002, 04:16 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

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N. Ridge of N. Peak of Index (take me I have a hatchet!)

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quote:

Originally posted by Bronco:

N. Ridge of N. Peak of Index (take me I have a hatchet!)

Wouldn't a chainsaw be more appropriate? [rockband]

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These are some good ideas. Who has done Mix Up out there? I've kind of got a chubby for that one.

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I've been to the summit ridge of mixup, probably fifteen feet from the top. Party dynamics prevented me from finishing the climb. A couple months ago the moat was already presenting a problem. Saturday the ranger at marblemount said that it would present quite an obstacle this time of year. The climbing is not teribly hard. But loose rock is a problem. the last 70 ft before reaching the summit ridge a bit of verticle exposure. And I wasn't solo. Terrible Ted has been up there this year. you might contact him. If you want to do it with a partner this weekend let me know.

ralph

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Thanks Ralph. I had forgotten about that moat until I read this and talked to a friend. Sounds like it may be impassable or at least a major headache this time of year. Hmmm. Now what?

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How 'bout Big Four? You've been oogling it for a while, and I bet you could do one of those North Face routes without scaring yourself too bad at this time of year (be prepared for some bush, though).

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Garfield

North Face of Inspiration with a gallon of vodka for bivi gear.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Garfield

North Face of Inspiration with a gallon of vodka for bivi gear.

Bring your grip strength for the first belay anchors [laf]

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I take by the recommendation of E Wilman's Spire. Not much to recommend, unless you like large talus fields, shitty, wet, loose exposed approach gullies and loose, crappy rock all the way to the top of the climb.

 

You will find a lovey 1 nut rap anchor at the top of the gulley, a half-assed Abakolov (sp?) down from that and some nice old slings for the last rap through the waterfall at the base of the gulley.

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Garfield isn't a bad rec, Juan, but are ya going by yourself? It gets exposed on the upper part, although you can make it less so by choosing the brush to the right. There's also some exposure on the traverse down low. It's not as obscure to find your way once up on the route, since someone seems to have made it their project to brush it out once a year. More confusing is the lower part.

 

Thompson is another one; that's a long hike in but the W Ridge is kinda fun. Some mid-5th here and there (like Forbidden) but mostly 4th class.

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quote:

Originally posted by fredrogers:

Not much to recommend, unless you like large talus fields, shitty, wet, loose exposed approach gullies and loose, crappy rock all the way to the top of the climb.

What's no to like about that? This is cascadeclimbers.com and that sure sounds like the Cascades to me.

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