Kimmo Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Thanks for the history lesson. In other news, the ocean is wet and little bears play in the woods. depends on how you define "play", muthafucka. Quote
Kimmo Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Sorry but I'm busy, unless you can pay my guide's fee. figgered you needed a guide, muthafucka. Quote
pope Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Did you guys know that Pope recently soloed Brass Balls? It's true! I think there's a picture of His Holiness consecrating The Holy Act around here somewhere. I just didn't want this important fact to be lost in all this important conversation. No, no....that was a LONG time ago. Not sure I'm right, but maybe it was more recent than the time you did it. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Sorry but I'm busy, unless you can pay my guide's fee. figgered you needed a guide, muthafucka. Quote
pope Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Did you guys know that Pope recently soloed Brass Balls? It's true! I think there's a picture of His Holiness consecrating The Holy Act around here somewhere. I just didn't want this important fact to be lost in all this important conversation. Define recently... judging by the picture I saw posted, this solo was done back when he and Dawg were slogging up-hill (both ways) in 3 feet of snow to get to the (unbolted) crag. No, no....that was a LONG time ago. Not sure I'm right, but maybe it was more recent than the time you did it. Quote
pope Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Sorry but I'm busy, unless you can pay my guide's fee. figgered you needed a guide, muthafucka. KK, are you really as dumb as Kimmo? Quote
G-spotter Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 So Pope, if somebody puts up a rappel bolted one pitch slab climb, with 2 bolts in 50 meters, are they deliberately increasing the danger or just mimicing the trad experience for those who repeat the route later? Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 KK, are you really as dumb as Kimmo? he seems pretty damn smart. so I'd hope I am as "dumb" as he. Quote
Kimmo Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 KK, are you really as dumb as Kimmo? he seems pretty damn smart. holeeyyyyy.... i have NEVER been called such names here before! Quote
Kimmo Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 KK, are you really as dumb as Kimmo? definitely not one of your better efforts, but then when i think back to your better efforts, i realize it's just par for the course (muthafucka). buahahahahahaaaaa Quote
Choada_Boy Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 I've seen pics of them on Logging roads having fun with Mt bikes and they don't oppose the man made destruction of those trails and logging roads.... And that's because they're hypocrites. Quote
Kimmo Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 btw, i miss yer friend donald. he needs to have a drink and come over and play. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 btw, i miss yer friend donald. he needs to have a drink and come over and play. forget it dude. you've been Care-Beared. I'm still waiting for mine... Quote
billcoe Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 I've seen pics of them on Logging roads having fun with Mt bikes and they don't oppose the man made destruction of those trails and logging roads.... And that's because they're hypocrites. No, that's not fair, I think they just haven't fully thought through their position. I suspect that our views are truly much closer than they are apart. Of course, perhaps an extra picture of what we are talking about would be helpful. Here I am drilling a rap anchor for "The Dragons Spine" out at Cathedral Formation right after Ujahn and I had (FA) climbed it. This is strictly so that one can get down with a single rope, not 2. Kill me for thinking of others and buying and leaving 2 (TWO) Fixe Stainless Steel carabiner style hangers for those who will follow. The route goes just to the left of me, up the spine for a full 200'. It is an amazing line, one you couldn't do without bolts. Perhaps Don can point out or show us a single bolt that he finds visually offensive? Just one Don, there are 24 on this pitch. The close up of one of them is this. They are monster 1/2" x 6-1/4 long Stainless steel wedge anchors with stainless steel 1/2" 40 KN rated hangers so that folks can enjoy themselves for the next 50 - 100 years. They were properly torqued with a new torque wrench to 53 foot lbs. (Mfg spec is 50-60) and loctited so that asswipes don't disturb them. You can't see them from the ground 15 feet away can you? Not unless there is an extreme close up. Didn't think so. Let alone from the car where you start to hike in. The chalk marking the x locating the best spot for pro has already washed away. If you don't want to come and climb the most amazing knobs in the state anywhere, better than anything I've ever seen, done or heard of at Smith Rocks, I'm OK with that. Stay home, whine and bitch. Go Mountain biking like you do and continue to tear up the trails and the environment: keep killing plants in sensitive areas like you do. Go ahead and do that. But for you to pontificate or even mention environmental destruction is total bullshit when not only is there noe involved, but they are putting in a 53 million dollar trail in the Colombia River Gorge strictly so folks can recreate. I support them doing that, I support us doing this. I like this form of recreation. Love it (especially cracks and gear climbs). Only in this case we are doing it with significantly less impact than the trail builders. So I'm calling bullshit on your F**ed Up bullshit. Quote
pope Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 KK, are you really as dumb as Kimmo? he seems pretty damn smart. so I'd hope I am as "dumb" as he. Kimmo, looks like you've gotta new groupie! Betcha getta BJ outa your new recruit. But seriously, if I'm collecting a guide's fee, how is it that I need a guide? Quote
pope Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 So Pope, if somebody puts up a rappel bolted one pitch slab climb, with 2 bolts in 50 meters, are they deliberately increasing the danger or just mimicing the trad experience for those who repeat the route later? In that case, they're probably putting the bolts in the wrong place, because after top-roping (which they will undoubtably do....that's what rap bolters do), they won't possibly know what leading above protection with no prior knowledge of the route entails. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 KK, are you really as dumb as Kimmo? he seems pretty damn smart. so I'd hope I am as "dumb" as he. Kimmo, looks like you've gotta new groupie! Betcha getta BJ outa your new recruit. But seriously, if I'm collecting a guide's fee, how is it that I need a guide? how many sportos did you berate this weekend, "watchdog"? don't want to let anyone have any fun, now do you? Quote
pope Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 I've seen pics of them on Logging roads having fun with Mt bikes and they don't oppose the man made destruction of those trails and logging roads.... And that's because they're hypocrites. No, that's not fair, I think they just haven't fully thought through their position. I suspect that our views are truly much closer than they are apart. That's some kind of stretch. Maybe next you'll note that every time I wash my hands I'm killing bacteria under my fingernails. Quote
pope Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 KK, are you really as dumb as Kimmo? he seems pretty damn smart. so I'd hope I am as "dumb" as he. Kimmo, looks like you've gotta new groupie! Betcha getta BJ outa your new recruit. But seriously, if I'm collecting a guide's fee, how is it that I need a guide? how many sportos did you berate this weekend, "watchdog"? don't want to let anyone have any fun, now do you? Without sport climbing, people can't have fun? I'm having a great time! Quote
StevenSeagal Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 I'm eagerly awaiting Raindawg and Pope's contribution to the "redpoint tactics" thread in the rock climbing forum. Redpoint = whole bunch of aid climbing followed by a top-roping with a little bit of slack. So, are we to infer you have never worked a route on toprope until you felt strong enough to lead it? Everything was just onsight for you? Basically, it is unethical to attempt something unless you can onsight it, and if you toprope it first, you should never lead it because you've already inspected it? I'll withhold sarcastic remarks until you clarify you strategy. For the above, either trad or bolts apply. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 Without sport climbing, people can't have fun? I'm having a great time! those having fun in the way Your Highness dictates as ethical anathema - those are the ones the "watchdog" berates for having fun Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 Then again, I may be mistaken, and "Hangdog Watchdog" is just Unidawg's pet name for you. Don't need any more details on that...thanks Quote
billcoe Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 So, are we to infer you have never worked a route on toprope until you felt strong enough to lead it? Everything was just onsight for you? Basically, it is unethical to attempt something unless you can onsight it, and if you toprope it first, you should never lead it because you've already inspected it? I'll withhold sarcastic remarks until you clarify you strategy. For the above, either trad or bolts apply. This use to be my belief and practice just to walk up and climb. If I went up to try it and fell, even if it later became a hard 5.11-5.12 that someone else totally dawged into submission so as to claim a FA, it didn't matter and I walked away. (this was generally always cracks as I don't care for face climbing on bolts generally, it has to be totally unique or special) I don't mind toproping anything though, but they use to be different things for me. I am no longer that way and often tr then lead a new route now, it's all good, just be honest with our policies and practices : and what does that matter anyway? Pope, you didn't answer the question on the Gorge trail...would you not find that fun to ride? Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 (edited) and what does that matter anyway? it doesn't Edited August 18, 2009 by KaskadskyjKozak Quote
AlpineK Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 It's been a while, but I just remembered a cool route in the Icicle. Right next to Carnival crack is a really good one called Sideshow Bob (Eric Mohler, Tom Perkow, Dave Bale 1999). It has some cool crack climbing leading to face with some small cracks. Right near the top (Crux?) of the route is a bolt. I was happy to see. The bolt. The bolt was interesting though. I thought it was kind of close to a crack where you could place pro. I hear the bolt was placed on rap by one of the FA crew. Interesting Quote
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