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Posted
But I'm probably right and you know it.

 

Yes, you're probably right about that route. Inappropriate bolting next to cracks and ridiculously close bolt spacing does happen, and I'm not a supporter of that sort of thing. I just wanted to make the point that pictures don't tell the whole story. Even with the bolt there, I'd thump on that flake before I yarded on it.

 

Thanks Bill for providing a concrete example, that's just the sort of thing I had in mind.

 

Hold on there OW!

You have be TOTALLY for or TOTALLY against bolting in this thread.

The sport climbers have made that very clear.

Pick a side and stay there.

Posted
Hey, just back from the mountains. What'd I miss?

 

What didja get your butt kicked on this time?

 

Oh, I'm pretty sure my hit rate has been somewhat higher than yours in recent years.

 

Dude, Pope would crush you on Rainier - off the couch, with blue Asolo rentals, and a watermelon tied to his ass!

 

Posted
Hey, just back from the mountains. What'd I miss?

 

What didja get your butt kicked on this time?

 

Oh, I'm pretty sure my hit rate has been somewhat higher than yours in recent years.

 

Dude, Pope would crush you on Rainier - off the couch, with blue Asolo rentals, and a watermelon tied to his ass!

 

He might try, but I'm a top, not a bottom.

 

Dammit, there we go again....

Posted

You have be TOTALLY for or TOTALLY against bolting in this thread.

 

Pick a side and stay there.

 

Guess I'm fucked.

 

I wear socks inside my Kaukulators and slip my Mythos on like a condom.

Posted

I love all types of climbing, trad, bolts, artificial, and aid. Its all about whos having fun, the environment will take care of itself in due course.

 

Its time we all just got along and had fun.

 

 

Stardancer, Mt. Rushmore 1987

pope_rushmore.jpg

Posted (edited)

:brew:

:fahq: what a bunch of old use to be old crochthy old wankers

climb it all as alex lowe once told me

yo overhanging sport with a bunch of young climbers climbing hard with the hotties is the shit

eat your heart out sausage fest dudes ...keep talk' your smack, is it time for the pope and raindawg to get up from there nap and have ther milk toast before they change there dipers :brew:

phuk off :fahq:

Dick head :wave:

meant that in the most admireing way :fahq: STFU :wave:

DICK HEAD :wave:

eric and don your rep and ego is at my keyboard :fahq:

Edited by richard_noggin
Posted
I love all types of climbing, trad, bolts, artificial, and aid. Its all about whos having fun, the environment will take care of itself in due course.

 

Its time we all just got along and had fun.

 

 

Stardancer, Mt. Rushmore 1987

pope_rushmore.jpg

 

Since you're so fond of quoting song lyrics, here's something JUST FOR YOU! courtesy of the OJays:

 

"What they do!

They smile in your face

All the time they want to take your place

The back stabbers (back stabbers)"

 

I tried sport-climbing too....but it made me feel dirty.

I thought about it, and decided it was wrong.

 

I love all types of climbing, trad, bolts, artificial, and aid. Its all about whos having fun, the environment will take care of itself in due course.

That's the biggest cop-out yet. The "it's all good [as long as you're having fun]" mantra is a self-centered sell-out. It ain't "all good" and future generations will notice and decry your ambivalency and wished you had taken up wind-surfing or some other relatively non-intrusive activity rather than leaving your thoughtless and long-lasting metallic scent.

 

 

Posted
Wow, that was easy!

 

"Like shootin' fish in a barrel."

 

Good thing you are alot nicer in RL Dwayner. :laf:

 

No, not really. Go ahead...ask me next time I don't show up at the establishment of your employment. I'm sure you won't miss me....SOLD OUT!

 

Starbucks_72.jpg

Posted
It ain't "all good" and future generations will notice and decry your ambivalency and wished you had taken up wind-surfing or some other relatively non-intrusive activity rather than leaving your thoughtless and long-lasting metallic scent.

 

The horror.Apocalypse%2BNow%2BBrando%2Bthe%2Bhorror.jpg

 

The thought that "future generations" may need to figure out and expend the energy to yank a bolt (should the oxidizing metal last) is beyond the pale.

 

More likely, they'll wish we'd had more impervious hardware while they expend the energy to fix replacements.

 

 

Posted
It ain't "all good" and future generations will notice and decry your ambivalency and wished you had taken up wind-surfing or some other relatively non-intrusive activity rather than leaving your thoughtless and long-lasting metallic scent.

 

The horror.Apocalypse%2BNow%2BBrando%2Bthe%2Bhorror.jpg

 

The thought that "future generations" may need to figure out and expend the energy to yank a bolt (should the oxidizing metal last) is beyond the pale.

 

More likely, they'll wish we'd had more impervious hardware while they expend the energy to fix replacements.

 

Nice point... It seems a wee bit ironic that the old skool folk always want to tell us all how much better their generation was and how useless the up and coming kids are, now Dawg is telling us the future generation is going to have this old skool ethic and look down on the sporto generation of climbers. Can't have it both ways Dawg. Either your generation is the last of the greatest dying breed, or not. Make up your mind already.
Posted
:brew:

:fahq: what a bunch of old use to be old crochthy old wankers

climb it all as alex lowe once told me

yo overhanging sport with a bunch of young climbers climbing hard with the hotties is the shit

eat your heart out sausage fest dudes ...keep talk' your smack, is it time for the pope and raindawg to get up from there nap and have ther milk toast before they change there dipers :brew:

phuk off :fahq:

Dick head :wave:

meant that in the most admireing way :fahq: STFU :wave:

DICK HEAD :wave:

eric and don your rep and ego is at my keyboard :fahq:

 

 

ooops did it again :brew:

this is like drunk dial'n your friends but drunk post'n

Posted
....It seems a wee bit ironic that the old skool folk always want to tell us all how much better their generation was and how useless the up and coming kids are, now Dawg is telling ....

 

Please provide an example of either Raindawg or Pope promoting their generation as better than any other. I don't think it exists. What we're promoting is a restrained, ground-up approach to bolting that would provide rock climbing enjoyment for many generations, instead of the grid-bolted mess that we currently have. BTW, I started climbing just as rap bolting/sport climbing were being introduced in the U.S. I didn't have any traditions to protect. As a young man, I analyzed the arguments and made a decision. Also, climbers who started the same time as I (or even before) are the ones who adopted and promoted sport climbing and they are largely responsible for the mess we have today. You seem to forget that sport climbing has been here for several decades. I would suggest that many young climbers have no idea that other options exist.

Posted
I love all types of climbing, trad, bolts, artificial, and aid. Its all about whos having fun, the environment will take care of itself in due course.

 

Its time we all just got along and had fun.

 

 

Stardancer, Mt. Rushmore 1987

pope_rushmore.jpg

 

Now here's an example of a route which, according to a former Devil's Tower ranger, was bolted on the lead from stances. Must say the results were excellent.

Posted

 

 

Nice point... It seems a wee bit ironic that the old skool folk always want to tell us all how much better their generation was and how useless the up and coming kids are, now Dawg is telling us the future generation is going to have this old skool ethic and look down on the sporto generation of climbers. Can't have it both ways Dawg. Either your generation is the last of the greatest dying breed, or not. Make up your mind already.

 

I climb with 30 somethings and 50 somethings. Love 'em all. Yes, it's a different experience between the two generations (but mostly between individuals, of course), but it seems to me the tradition of intelligent irreverence and love of the mountains runs as strong as it ever did.

Posted
....It seems a wee bit ironic that the old skool folk always want to tell us all how much better their generation was and how useless the up and coming kids are, now Dawg is telling ....

 

Please provide an example of either Raindawg or Pope promoting their generation as better than any other. I don't think it exists. What we're promoting is a restrained, ground-up approach to bolting that would provide rock climbing enjoyment for many generations, instead of the grid-bolted mess that we currently have. BTW, I started climbing just as rap bolting/sport climbing were being introduced in the U.S. I didn't have any traditions to protect. As a young man, I analyzed the arguments and made a decision. Also, climbers who started the same time as I (or even before) are the ones who adopted and promoted sport climbing and they are largely responsible for the mess we have today. You seem to forget that sport climbing has been here for several decades. I would suggest that many young climbers have no idea that other options exist.

 

Granted there are a lot of shit show grid bolted routes that were put up on rap which should be aborted, but I've been on routes put up ground up style which weren't much better. Shouldn't the bench mark be the quality of route, such as the necessity of the bolt for pro, rather than how it was put up?

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