Off_White Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 Crusing For A Care Bear, now that's a helluva name for a new route! Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 The guy's pretty much like a wind up toy. Push the button, get the bear. Except, you know, he's like a "credentialed" wind up toy. A perfect fit for the drain filter of arrested development and social dysfunction that is academia. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 It also strikes me that fewer BLTs and more BOLTs in his life might help this couch Jaba recapture a slice of those Glory Days. Quote
StevenSeagal Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 The guy's pretty much like a wind up toy. Push the button, get the bear. Except, you know, he's like a "credentialed" wind up toy. A perfect fit for the drain filter of arrested development and social dysfunction that is academia. Predicted response: "you know nothing about my credentials, education, occupation, or penis size. So stop your speculating, Simple Jack, and check out my junk [insert clown photo here] [care bear photo] Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 I'm reminded of the Terminator, with it's limited menu of responses to stimuli. Except, you know, that it's a 'credentialed' Terminator. Quote
kevbone Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 This thread needs a little old school..... Quote
StevenSeagal Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 I'm reminded of the Terminator, with it's limited menu of responses to stimuli. Except, you know, that it's a 'credentialed' Terminator. FUCK YOU ASSHOLE! Oh wait...they didn't use profanity in Raindawg's time, back then all climbers knew each other, had the same values, and didn't swear! Quote
StevenSeagal Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 Every thread can always use less of kevbone and the photo of his spent out, hepatitis-laden skin job he calls a pinup. Quote
Off_White Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 Don, maybe you're looking for a blow by blow response Even if its radically overhung, this looks pretty uncool to me, looks like some decent cam placements. While out of the question for me, out in the world of hard climbers, 12c just isn't that hard anymore. Presumably this represents about eight face routes? Looks like most have 3 to 4 bolts on the pitch? There's a lot of lines squeezed in close, but the spacing on any individual route doesn't look any closer than one would sew up one of those cracks. The funny thing about a short route is that you never really get out of ground fall range. Aside from the red circles, the ugliest thing in that photo is the chalk. I can see as how you'd advocate that all these could be top roped, and that's certainly true. I don't really accept the idea that top roping is the same as leading bolt protected routes, based on my personal experience, but I'll concede all these routes could be top roped. Yeah, I remember this photo, where is this again? It looks pretty silly and that feature appears pretty short. Looks like a fine candidate for a TR or boulder problem. You tend to make fun of the pad people, but they climb things that high unroped all the time, so you might want to reconsider your disdain. You gotta admire them environmentalist-sport climbers! They just tryin' to help us all out by dumbin' it down for us average folk, so makin' a mess is A.O.K! Whoa, hold on there Kreskin, what gives you any insight into what "they" are thinking? I guess since it's a strawman you built yourself you can claim to know what "they" think, but for a guy who always disputes anyone who believes they can discern your thoughts and motives, you're awfully quick to hold forth on your imagined thoughts and motives of others. Do you consider that valid since you are an actual individual, whereas "them environmentalist-sport climbers" is just some silly pigeonhole you've created? Ah yes, the classic BLT photo. Lets consider it, shall we? First, it looks like 3 different routes. Is your issue the sandwiching (heh heh, BLT, sandwich, get it?) of these lines close together? I can understand that complaint. Without climbing all three lines and really looking at the area I can't hold forth on the merit of the routes, which is most worthy, which is a dull johnny come lately sandwich route, but I'll concede that's a possibility. Is your issue the frequency of protection? Well, that center line seems rather closely bolted, but the others seem reasonable if you don't want to hit the deck. Granted, they're a little better protected than some of the things I tend to put up in Tenino, but I can easily imagine placing gear that closely on a crack route, especially when close to the ground. Would you advocate removing the first bolts and using a stick clip? Certainly a viable though often sneered upon tactic. You could use a bouldering pad at the base and skip the first bolt. Do people routinely bring pads and/or stick clips to this crag? Either of those options only make sense if its the prevailing ethic at that crag. Option C, using riff-raff bolts, especially if installed by first ascensionists climbing well below their limit, are a fine example of ego driven wankery, but that's just my opinion. Frankly, it looks like a choss pile or a road cut, is this exhibit A in your body of evidence of degradation of the sacred rock by sport climbers? Sorry, I don't think the drama really bears up under scrutiny. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) I'm reminded of the Terminator, with it's limited menu of responses to stimuli. Except, you know, that it's a 'credentialed' Terminator. FUCK YOU ASSHOLE! Oh wait...they didn't use profanity in Raindawg's time, back then all climbers knew each other, had the same values, and didn't swear! The funny thing is, I'm from Raindawg's time. The climbers I know from that time either a) have moved on to other things or b) are still doing it, albeit it at a more relaxed pace and often in a different form. Even as their relationship with the wilderness has matured and changed, some are just as passionate as they ever were about getting out. I don't personally know anyone from 'back in the day' who continues to chest beat about their Pleistocene accomplishments or, even more embarrassing, their decades-old academic degrees. Pope and Dwayner are unique in this respect, as far as I've been able to tell. But then, I've never really hung around with any pure road-side craggers, so I'm not that familiar with the species. In general, those who throw a bit of alpinism in the mix, even the most talented of said group, seem to have an healthy humbleness when it comes to their exploits. To this group, it's pretty obvious who remains in charge. Perhaps Don and company have more alpinism under their belt than I realize. If so, it seems that they may have forgotten the lessons others have taken from that experience, at least as far as their online personas are concerned. One might argue that their egos need a little pin prick, but I'd wager that deflation has already occurred, and what we witness here is an inability to accept the inevitable and age gracefully. Along that vein, I understand and don't entirely disagree with Don's revulsion to over-bolting from a preservation standpoint. Unfortunately for him, his credibility drops to zero with his kindergartener's 'my pie is better than your pie' delivery and 'with us or against us' attitude. But then, he's not really a part of the climbing community anymore, so, I suppose he feels like he doesn't really need to give a shit about his relationship to it. Edited August 11, 2009 by tvashtarkatena Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 I can predict the response that's coming: "...you don't know me or what I've climbed, buddy!" i.e. "I just might be an original badass you never heard about" Dude, he's climbed Rainier. RAINIER!!! Quote
Off_White Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 It's funny what a glitch will do, but after going back to Spray after my last post the way-back bug filled my list with vintage threads. This one from eight years ago is quite relevant and entertaining: Bolt Mania. To give some historical perspective, you'll come to understand that the "anonymous" who started the thread was Donna Top Step, one of Raindawg's old avatars. Cute that he lays claim to a female perspective. Way back then folks were complaining that the tone of the conversation starter inspires dissent from people who might otherwise agree but are offended by the attitude of the poster. Same now as it ever was. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 Rainier's just a hike...until a 150 foot wide snow patch collapses underneath you. Then it becomes a real mountain again. Quote
StevenSeagal Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 I can predict the response that's coming: "...you don't know me or what I've climbed, buddy!" i.e. "I just might be an original badass you never heard about" Dude, he's climbed Rainier. RAINIER!!! [pee wee herman molesting a clown photo] Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 They say a picture is worth a thousand words.... your postings summarized in 1000 words: Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 It's funny what a glitch will do, but after going back to Spray after my last post the way-back bug filled my list with vintage threads. This one from eight years ago is quite relevant and entertaining: Bolt Mania. To give some historical perspective, you'll come to understand that the "anonymous" who started the thread was Donna Top Step, one of Raindawg's old avatars. Cute that he lays claim to a female perspective. Way back then folks were complaining that the tone of the conversation starter inspires dissent from people who might otherwise agree but are offended by the attitude of the poster. Same now as it ever was. You gotta love the poster's 'my pie is better than your pie' comparison with Fred B, a guy who, although famously quirky, seems to have his ego in check, particularly with regards to his crushing accomplishments. Get fucking real, dude. Quote
StevenSeagal Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 It's funny what a glitch will do, but after going back to Spray after my last post the way-back bug filled my list with vintage threads. This one from eight years ago is quite relevant and entertaining: Bolt Mania. To give some historical perspective, you'll come to understand that the "anonymous" who started the thread was Donna Top Step, one of Raindawg's old avatars. Cute that he lays claim to a female perspective. Way back then folks were complaining that the tone of the conversation starter inspires dissent from people who might otherwise agree but are offended by the attitude of the poster. Same now as it ever was. On a side note, today's Peter Puget seems so comparatively sedate. Too many M's heartbreaks? Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) Also, I climb with folks who put up a ton of rock FA's in WA. None of them, not one, advocate or celebrate repeating the run out/shitty gear style of climbing they practiced back in the day. They realize that that was then, they were young and crazy, and this is now. In fact, several of that same group actively still upgrade the bolts, anchors, and trails at the areas they developed way back when. Darrington comes to mind. Thanks from the rest of us, guys. Your continued efforts to keep Washington's wedder little jewels maintained to a high standard are greatly appreciated. Edited August 11, 2009 by tvashtarkatena Quote
Pete_H Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 get your filthy fucking hands off me asshole. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 11, 2009 Posted August 11, 2009 get your filthy fucking hands off me asshole. THAT was funny (the Tvash equivalent of an anti-CareBear) Quote
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