wayne Posted July 24, 2009 Posted July 24, 2009 (edited) I am so ready for this.... Edited July 24, 2009 by wayne1112 Quote
dberdinka Posted July 24, 2009 Posted July 24, 2009 The movie and book rights required a confidentiality agreement. Plus the families of the dead have yet to all be informed. Quote
wayne Posted July 25, 2009 Author Posted July 25, 2009 Ok , Patience is needed here obviously. Take your time. Quote
Little Gorilla Posted July 25, 2009 Posted July 25, 2009 Nice work Jens and Sol!!! Â Hint: What were these two doing this time last year? Quote
wayne Posted July 25, 2009 Author Posted July 25, 2009 No news flash here..These guys have been on a crazy ripping tear lately. We are just lucky that they modestly tell us a little about it on occasion. Can you say Golden Age Redux? I think they need a nick-name and their own star room in our little hut. It is a dazzling time they are having up there lately! Congrats on your lives, not just some climb! Quote
Sol Posted July 25, 2009 Posted July 25, 2009 The tr might take some time. As jens's blog says we made the FFA of Dragons of Eden on July 22nd. The line clocked in at spicy 12- and is the most inspiring chunk of stone i've been on in the Cascades. Photo courtesy of Max Hasson. Â Â Quote
denalidave Posted July 25, 2009 Posted July 25, 2009 The tr might take some time. As jens's blog says we made the FFA of Dragons of Eden on July 22nd. The line clocked in at spicy 12- and is the most inspiring chunk of stone i've been on in the Cascades. Photo courtesy of Max Hasson. Â Â SIICCKK! Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted July 25, 2009 Posted July 25, 2009 Awesome! And even cooler that you had a 2nd team around for photography! Quote
marc_leclerc Posted July 26, 2009 Posted July 26, 2009 nicely done Jens and Sol..... that looks like a stellar free route. Quote
JensHolsten Posted July 26, 2009 Posted July 26, 2009 Thanks for the patience guys...still no pics, but I wrote some thoughts on jensholsten.blogspot.com  Hope you enjoy it! Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted July 27, 2009 Posted July 27, 2009 Jens or Sol, How much 12 climbing is there on the pitch. Are we talking a few moves of scarry and hard or a half a pitch of desperate stuff? Â Quote
JensHolsten Posted July 27, 2009 Posted July 27, 2009 The 12a pitch on DOE is quite solid...75% of the pitch is on difficult ground...a fight all the way to the end. Something to consider for those who want to do the route, but are not up for the spicy 5.12...Blake and Pete repeated (they did not summit) DOE with a variation that is around the corner and off to the right. Their pitch went at 5.10. Sol and I noticed this variation and I think it will be climbed often. That said, so will the 5.12...it is clean, hard, sustained, and technical, really one of the best pitches in the Enchantments (if not the best). You guys should all go take a lap! let's clean this thing up. Sol and I only had three days for this project so I did a lot of selective cleaning for myself to send...repeat suitors will find a lot of grain that needs to come off still...unless you climb the crux. Beautiful smooth stone on that one. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 Nice work, Guys! Â Giving this rig 5 stars. Â Climbing Link Quote
rmncwrtr Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 Congrats! This came across on a Tweet from Climbing Mag. Quote
billcoe Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 Awesome granite with super pictures!!!! Â Fing a dudes! Nice. Â Photo by Max Hasson. Â Max nailed it. Quote
Pete_H Posted August 5, 2009 Posted August 5, 2009 This is a very impressive send. DOE is still very dirty even though Sol and Jens cleaned it and is much more difficult than the grade suggests. Quote
Rad Posted August 5, 2009 Posted August 5, 2009 So do you bounce off that tower if you fall at the crux? That could ruin your day. Quote
Sol Posted August 7, 2009 Posted August 7, 2009 Yeah that's the deal Rad. Ktaylor and Tyree recently climbed the route and claimed one of the best routes anywhere. Kris was able to get a bomber green alien in from his tiptoes on the pillar, which basically takes the R out of the crux pitch (i'm glad we didn't fix a pin). Â They were able to onsight a number of pitches, made a proud free-attempt burn, and unlike Blake and Pete felt the grades were spot on for every pitch. Â Thanks for the patience with the TR everyone, i'll write it early next week. Quote
Pete_H Posted August 7, 2009 Posted August 7, 2009 Hopefully the route will get cleaned up more. For the record, I thought the grades were accurate. Quote
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