highclimb Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 Office space, thats a good movie by the way....ok back the Topic. i aggree that the moment you wrote that you could lead 5.9 at Si and that you were up for the north ridge of Stuart. you opened yourself up for some bashing. i can lead 5.9 sport too, but that is sport climbing. it is sOOOO much diferent from trad. i get really pumped leading 5.8+ trad and leading trad at a crag and leading trad in the mountains is also diferent. i cant get the never up to lead hard stuff in the mountains. also you did not mention whether you knew much about trad climbing because all you said was that you can clip bolts at 5.9. maybe be more specific next time. Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Blister Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 Office Space: I'm sure you didn't expect some of the responses you received, but I'm not sure you fully appreciate how the locals might view the tone of your initial question. If you think 5.9 at Little Si compares to the Gendarme or the crux pitches of the lower N. Ridge (neither of which I have climbed, for the record), I respectfully suggest that you're in for a scary surprise. Many climbers, myself included, rap at the base of the Gendarme because: (1) it is intimidating as hell; (2) by then you're likely to be tired and ready for some easier climbing; and (3) any serious fall on the Gendarme would be really bad news. I know one person who fell on the first pitch of the Gendarme and waited, with broken bones etc., for over two days to be rescued. No fun for anyone. As for what types of climbs you should aim for at your level, please remember (and I say this in all seriousness) that the Cascades are full of routes that are class 3 & 4 that can completely overwhelm people due to their complexity, size, objective danger, difficulty of retreat, etc. Most of us have been humbled enough times to develop a sense of deep respect that goes way beyond the ratings. You may have too, but that didn't exactly come across in your initial post. Hence the strong reaction. All of that said, have fun and be safe. And as a former civil litigator in Seattle, I hope you don't feel the need to sue anyone as a result of comments on this thread or because of your experience on Stuart or anywhere else for that matter. Have a good climb, and give us a TR when you return. John Sharp [This message has been edited by Mr. Blister (edited 07-24-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 I heard a rumor that Office Spice is really Donna Top Step posting under a different name??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 it wouldnt suprise me...they act the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Space cadet, "Your" thread is now 3 pages long because you are so fun and easy to pick on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Sorry Office Space- The moment you said that you could lead 5.9 at Little Si, so you thought you'd be ready for Stuart, you pretty much invited the dogs in on you. Its kind of like saying that you can lead 5.9 at the gym, so now you're ready for the Steck Salathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Hey spacedout, My partner had to bail on me due to work, so it looks like I won't be able to drop rocks on your head after all... And you won't be able to sue me for money I don't have. Anyway sorry I upset you, but you didn't have to go and call me a childish renegade. That hurtss man. It seems everyone agree's that you brought the spray upon yourself. Maybe this climb will do you some good, getting out of the office and all. Anyone need a partner this Fri-Sat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 When I started gym climbing, back in 1992, for the first couple of months, I could do 5.9 at Squamish, but not 5.9 in the gym. One of the reasons I hated gym climbing. Don't have that problem anymore but lots of new reasons to hate gym climbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 I guess that's my biggest beef with gym mentality. It can propagate a false sense of ability. Hero: "I can top rope 10a in the gym easily so a casual day of leading 5.9 at Index should be no problem" Next day at Index Passerby at Index: "What was the loud noise" Climber at Lower Town Wall: "See that guy up on Godzilla..that was the sound of his sphincter slamming shut" Hero: <gripped on Godzilla> "Mommy!" I started off face climbing and progressed to leading 5.10 pretty quickly, but when I started climbing trad I was pretty pressed to lead 5.8 and it took a good bit longer to start progressing up. I think Dan Cauthorn and someone else recently put out a good book on progressing from gym climbing to the great outdoors. Forget the title. Anyone read it? Is it any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wopper Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 I have nothing useful to say, I just want to interupt OfficeSpace's thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backcountry Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 I have a drivers license so I must be able to race on the IRL circuit.........right..... Whatever dude....FLAME ON! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Blister Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 News Flash: Office Space is one of us, boys, not some arrogant newbie. We've all been had. The joke's on us, I guess. You'll have to climb the complete N. Ridge this weekend, though, to find out his real identity! Go to it. John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 *********************** [This message has been edited by dberdinka (edited 07-25-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 After a layoff announcement suddenly there is time to browse the web. The thread started quite OK and office space seemed to know what he’s (or it’s? don’t know, our own office space is pretty ugly talking about. Then the first lamb (it’s a joke, man didn’t see the humor and decided to “help”. OfficeSpace’s ego couldn’t take such patronizing and took over from there. Lambone instead of just saying sorry and forgetting about the whole thing decided to drag on to improve his public image (besides, gotta do something during the day). Really interesting to watch! No, no morals here, just contributing to the clutter J (oh, my god, am I bringing the flames upon me?!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 It once happened that a child was spared punishment through earnest solicitation Kobayashi Issa [This message has been edited by Matt (edited 07-25-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Praise be to Caveman For he hath found the funny Site full of icons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backcountry Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 yo ain gunna be jiving en tell yu foos dis a damn shayme... Ann ta Spacey bru-tha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Just a little recent beta. I was at the base of the Upper N. Ridge yesterday morning. The snow gulley leading to the ridge has patchy snow. An ice axe was very useful in crossing the glacier. As the season progresses crampons should be useful to cross the glacier, it looks like some sections are starting to get a bit icy. The route looks to be very beautiful. Much to our surprise, a weak weather system came in early yesterday morning causing a white out on the north side and some sporty wind. Cool thing is I got to see the Stuart rain shadow action in full swing. After waiting a while my partner and I bailed because I didn't think we could complete the route in the manner I was hoping. Enough lamenting. A question to everyone who has completed the upper North Ridge of Stuart. Is it easier to carry over and head out via Longs Pass or leave bivy gear at Goat Pass and come back for it after the climb is completed? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 [This message has been edited by jblakley (edited 07-25-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freak Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Timl hey I'm not sure the best way but I carried over and it was okay, exited via longs pass, leaving gear at goat pass will set you up for alot of hikeing but its doable I guess, it will take you a long time to get back over there after a southside decent, I would say go with really light bivy gear, carry over and go out longs pass, nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollyclimber Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Back from a climbing trip, have to throw myself into this fray... 5.9 at Little Si? I can only think of 2 5.9 routes there, one is an ok warm up (Reptiles) and one sucks (some devil name or something). If that is what you climb at Little Si, how can you like it so much? Just seems wierd to me. Not where I go if I want to climb 5.9 Ok...now I go back and read some things and maybe office space was joking? [This message has been edited by hollyclimber (edited 07-25-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Blister Posted July 25, 2001 Share Posted July 25, 2001 Tim: Carry over and out Long's Pass whether you have a day pack or a light overnight set-up. If you sleep anywhere, make it Goat's Pass. But don't expect Rose to be there because she will be with me. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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