LostCamKenny Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 Greetings to all who view or respond! I'm looking for beta on Chair Peak's North Face route... Never done it and am planning to try in February 09, but I'd like to hear about it from someone/anyone who has done it. I'm most interested in the approach and descent, but any beta concerning gear and pro is gladly welcome. Cheers! Quote
Bug Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 There are lots of trip reports on the nf route. If you use the search function you will get more than you care to read. Enjoy!!! Quote
DirtyHarry Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 Beta is: Wait for a favorable avy forecast. Walk to the north face and start climbing. Stop when you get to the top. Quote
Kat_Roslyn Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 Watch yourn rope knot don't get chewed on by badger, bear, and other forest critters Quote
pope Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 Instead of hiking the Snow Lakes trail, find a service road out of Alpental which always seems to be well-packed and could save you some effort getting into the valley. With a 50 or 60 meter rope, if snow is not well consolidated, you might find the second belay doesn't offer great anchors. I'm sure many options exist, but we found ourselves simulclimbing so the leader could reach good anchors. Probably stretching the first pitch would avoid these problems. For the descent, we belayed down a gully to the south. You may find a piton rap station. I've been up there a few times and never found spectacular snow and ice. On my first trip we climbed the east face and enjoyed perfect sticks with adequate ice screw protection. Quote
coldiron Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 Has anyone had a look at Chair Peak recently? I'm wondering if there is any decent ice on the North or East Face routes. Quote
Serenity Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 Beta is: Wait for a favorable avy forecast. Walk to the north face and start climbing. Stop when you get to the top. Outstanding response! Gold star work! Quote
kevino Posted December 3, 2008 Posted December 3, 2008 Has anyone had a look at Chair Peak recently? I'm wondering if there is any decent ice on the North or East Face routes. I was up there last wednesday and it was pretty much sugar snow on top of rock. This warm weather/rain probably hasn't helped much. Quote
Alpinfox Posted December 11, 2008 Posted December 11, 2008 Stop when you get to the top. Pffft... quitter. Quote
Reilly Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 And don't forget it was soloed the winter of '73. Quote
G-spotter Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 And don't forget it was soloed the winter of '73. omg call the magazines, forget that Ueli Steck guy this is a late breaking news flash! Quote
DirtyHarry Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 If you waited for the right winter you could probably down solo it on skis too. Quote
dbconlin Posted January 24, 2009 Posted January 24, 2009 If you waited for the right winter you could probably down solo it on skis too. I believe that has been done - oh, wait, on small section was rapped. Quote
DirtyHarry Posted January 24, 2009 Posted January 24, 2009 Oh that's right. Its the east face that still needs to be skied. Quote
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