Plaidman Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Good one Dave. Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Bolts are for protection not sentimental value. Replace all the bolts. Use the existing hole if possible. Thanks for the community service Moof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 john, you make a lot of sense, but from what i've seen, making sense isn't of much value where these beacon quibbles are concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 At first I wanted to get old anchors out of the way, but Opdyke requested that we leave them for history sake. Now I am totally on board with leaving the anchors and adding new ones. As has been said, it's pretty cool to see the crazy old anchors that were used but not have to rely on them. Of course if you are crazy ivan you just rap off whatever is there. As far as the lead bolt, if it is going to be replaced, lets pull it and use the hole, unless it is really unusual one of a kind jingus mank. In that case leave it for others to see. Of course you can just do whatever you want. What he said up there goes for me, however the last sentence is still specific bolt dependent (IMO). I mean, if the ideal placement is that old shit 1/4" er and the new one gets shunted off to a less than ideal placement while the old one is left in the way.....(this is the "use your best judgment" riff) Benny, I still have your 2 Metolius cams, I cuddle them at night as if they were my own. I oil them and talk to them so they are not lonely....but at some point I'm sure they will want to go back home, and they haven't forgotten you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 If you want to replace bolts a beacon.....just go do it. Dont ask....just do it. No one will notice. Jim does not care. He may say he cares......but at the end of the day he does not care. Since I know Jim better than anyone on this site....I am going to speak for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 If you want to replace bolts a beacon.....just go do it. Dont ask....just do it. No one will notice. Jim does not care. He may say he cares......but at the end of the day he does not care. Since I know Jim better than anyone on this site....I am going to speak for him. Huh? One of the things I really like about Jim, is that when he comes to an idea like that (preserving the history), he does it from a position that others (not himself), would and should benefit from it and that's why it's the right thing for all of us to do. See, he's already seen all that old mank, and I suspect he doens't care, for himself, if he continues to see it. But if you would ask him, he'd most likely be thinking that there are pups not yet even climbing that would benefit and personally grow by the presence of seeing and perhaps even useing (with a new 3/8 bolt added to the mix so no-one dies) what use to be the gold std, but is now considered trash. That way, when they get off route in the Mts or in Yos, they have a basis of knowledge and won't freak out when they encounter this stuff. Can't speak for JO on that one although I'd bet he'd agree with it, but for myself, I totally concur with that idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Gonna try and fix lines tomorrow. No bolting till the weekend, as soloing in the rain will be slow at best... I also have to see if I can scrounge up some shorter bolts, looks like I am down to just a couple shorty SS Rawls, the rest are 3.5" beasts (what was I thinking!). Not sure of other folks plans, but if you see an icicle dangling in the amphitheater tomorrow, that'll be me. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 i might be able to get out sunday duuude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Why is a thread about a Washington Crag in the OR cascades forum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBo6 Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Why do you post that question every six months or so? Wait, why isn't this in spray, all TR's are spray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Yeah, screw climbing in the rain/wind today... Ivan, weekend looks decent with "few showers", so I'm going to try fixing lines Saturday instead. If you want to join up for the bolting fun on Sunday, that would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Why is a thread about a Washington Crag in the OR cascades forum? Seems like a pretty dumb question when we all know the best climbing in Portland is in Washington. I'm sure even you knew that Kev. Happy New Year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 Why is a thread about a Washington Crag in the OR cascades forum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 The Dude abides! Might have to rent that one later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaconben Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Sorry Kev, I love The Big Labowski. Had fun at the party. Bill sorry I did not make it to yours. Keep those cams warm and cozy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) if you decide to swap out the anchor at the top of pipedream, joe, be sure to change out the other anchor 30 meters lower and halfway over to jensens - i thought about stopping there first until i got even w/ and got a good look at it! Said anchor is now redone. Pipedream was all oozy and nasty looking, so I aided the next left, whatever it was. Lots of fun, without ooze or excess spice. New bolts are 3/8" stainless with the Fixe double ring hangers (no rap webbing required). FYI, the pitch is 115' long from the leftmost bolts aboveWindsurfer, and ~180-190' from the ground (two 60m ropes will get you down in one rap). Rack is triple aliens blue to red (especially red), double camalots #0.75 to #3 (save some for the top), lots of draws, few small offset nuts helpful but more than a single set of regular nuts is overkill. Fixed line is still up so I can get back next weekend for the two jingus lead bolts, and hopefully get up to the Pipeline anchor too. For the record, the bolts were pretty standard 1 1/4"x1/4" bolts. One button head, one threaded, both with SMC non-stainless hangers. Holes were reused. If someone wants them for their twisted sense of posterity, they can have them. Maybe we can permanently leave some Gatorade bottles at the base to remind folks of the days when littering was more common too. Edited January 11, 2009 by Moof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Stout, good job Moof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Hey Moof, I snapped a couple pics of you with my cell phone today. PM me if you want them. Nothing to exciting. I thought the Gatorade bottle was yours. I heard it falling down from somewhere and it scared the crap out of me as I first thought it was a rock coming down. I only little gear there. Looks like it will be pretty wet Sunday so good thing you got it done today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) Dave, I have no idea where the Gatorade came from, as it clearly had some velocity on impact. It's becoming a tradition to pack out at least one drink container per trip. Last time it was a funky Jolt color mega-sized can. Lots of folks stash their cans and bottle under a rock to foil wind and gravity, then forget to retrieve on their way out. I was more commenting on the baffling and unique museum ethics of adding holes to allow museumification of the stations. I'd love any pics you got, their just fun. Edited January 11, 2009 by Moof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 The litter is annoying, especially the cig butts all over the routes. Some people got no respect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) Old Bolts: The button head was harder to pull, the threaded was in a slightly cratered hole, so a good 3/8" on the left side of the bolt was not actually embedded in rock, and it correspondingly was pretty easy to pull. According to my book the anchor is for Pipeline Headwall II, no anchor is shown in my Olsen guide there (probably because nobody has done the route in 25 years). If you want to pencil it in your guidebook, mark it on the right side of the that is depicts (1.5" above the "125" route number in my guidebook). My blue alien I think is finally getting retired: The copper widget got pinched over a sharp edge on this outing enough this time to bind on the cable. That is the final injury for it. Long ago the trigger wire bar got mangled, and one spring has been funky for a while and keeps popping loose. Edited January 11, 2009 by Moof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 good info moof and glad we didnt' kill you! you should come check out our new line b4 the park closes - think we're gonna go w/ the uber-gay "it takes a village" moniker as it is most appropos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 How about "A Thousand Monkeys"? Referring to the old addage of a thousand monkeys at a thousand typewriters for a thousand years will eventualy write a great novel. Less gay. My weekend is wide open, so if I can wrap up the last two bolts (shouldn't take long at all) then I definately want to check this beast out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 How about "A Thousand Monkeys"? LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Anyone been up to Beacon lately? How's the wind? Looks dry enough but I'm seeing reports of strong winds up there. Anyone going to brave the cold and do it this weekend? -Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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