ivan Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Trip: Beacon Rawk - Windsurfer/Pipedream Date: 9/1/2008 Trip Report: great day at the big b - taste of fall in the air - lotza folks in the house - jimmy o and fighting the Man - warmed up on little wing n' jills - first time climbing w/ moof, a good guy and hella patient! spent far too much time laying seige to pipedream - pulled the first pin on the traverse off the ledge out w/ my fingers, just by touching it - the next next pin and 1/4 inch bolt held, but rightly belong in the goddamn smithsonian pipedream took a long, long time as an aid climb - typical beacon story for a route that hasn's seen traffic in god knows how long - lots of gardening and cleanign and now i'm blind - 160 feet is a looooong pitch - it's all clean now 'cept a giant blackberry bush just below the less-than-inspiring anchor (get at it joe!) - i was frustrated the last 10 feet as i was out of bigish gear and was contending w/ the demon bush and a sloping ledge that was 120% 1000 year old fern - my one fall on the route came 3 feet below the anchor - a nut blew as i aided through the thorns and i took a nice long ride of 30 feet or more - enjoyed getting to free climb back through that section, which would be classic if it wasn't such a motherfucker to get to - eschewed the topout to the trail and did a double rope rap back to the anchor at windsurfer my first time using hooks! the giant eagle talon worked great as both a cleaning tool and sod-sticker. a fantastic end to my summer and now it's back to school in the morning, but at least i didn't spend all day dreading it! my carharts resembled a dali painting by days end from the kaladioscope of lichen colors nature hate crime again! and will the complete stepphenwulf fall by my gumby hands on saturday? time will tell... :) Gear Notes: x3 .5, .75, 1, 2 x2 3 lotza brassies (key) x3 aliens x2 sets of nuts Approach Notes: moist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 if you decide to swap out the anchor at the top of pipedream, joe, be sure to change out the other anchor 30 meters lower and halfway over to jensens - i thought about stopping there first until i got even w/ and got a good look at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I'll donate some stainless bolts and hangers to the cause if that helps. As long as I don't have to sit at the Windsurfer belay for another 5 hours... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I'll donate some stainless bolts and hangers to the cause if that helps. As long as I don't have to sit at the Windsurfer belay for another 5 hours... 5 hours? WTF, sounds like you were climbing with Jim! I once belayed Jim (OK it WAS a new route) for 8 hours from a hanging belay. Had time to shit, piss 8 or 9 times had at least one birthday and even plenty of time to pleasure myself before he called "Off Belay". Holy F*ck!! Established route? Maybe should have untied and free soloed so you could get home in time for Starsky and Hutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 3, 2008 Author Share Posted September 3, 2008 sure didn't FEEL established as a nut tool was required for most every placement and enough vegatation was pulled to earn the vaunted "least cool man of the year" award from the Society of Pretentious Eco-Friendly-Fucks my glaz-balls still feel fucked today as i'm pulling out lichen-enhanced eye-boogers - i was so red-eyed this morning at school i was afeared someone might get the wrong idea 'bout me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Billcoe said: "5 hours? WTF" Hey! That's my line! Pissing required waiting for a lull in the traffic. Last thing I needed was a public indecency charge while climbing with someone as felonious as Ivan. I'd probably get an extra frisking just for climbing with him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Billcoe said: "5 hours? WTF" Hey! That's my line! Pissing required waiting for a lull in the traffic. Last thing I needed was a public indecency charge while climbing with someone as felonious as Ivan. I'd probably get an extra frisking just for climbing with him. Try waiting in the border crossing with that sketchball!!! I was already planning on how to sell him out to the border pigs to avoid getting the cavity search! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 I'm thinking that a repeat of this (with bolt kit) is in order. Maybe fix lines on this Friday or Saturday, then go back the next to rebolt both anchors. Anyone interested? Ivan? Joseph? I'll lead and provide anchor materials, lines for fixing, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 24, 2008 Author Share Posted December 24, 2008 i would but i'm going north to climb ice after xmas for a half week or so, maybe in the new year? (we still have a solid month - i wanna finish that neo-stone age aid line of lolp too and recover my fixed line) the only bolt that oughta be replaced is that one off the anchor - be sure to leave the original or suffer the ire of jim opdyck - don't add any bolts on the pitch - the thin ass nature of the line is half the fun, plus the history book says it has been freed in the existing condition, so it'd be heresy to change it - the upper anchor bolt could use a swap-out, but leave the fixed pin as its solid - the lower bolt anchor on the ledge is totally new shit of course i think that climb would be crazy in its icy state right now, quite beyond the realm of anything i'd thing sane! take pix! oh yeah, and if i'm around, i'll be glad to take the winter version of the 5 hour belay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 Leave the original? Maybe I'm misreading you there Ivan. My intent was to pull and replace that first lead bolt (as well as the top anchor bolts), and our saying local ethics say not to do that? Really? Top anchor bolts are on the hit list, and I'll take the stuff for the ones off left halfway to Jensens as well, but they'd be secondary (dependent on sunlight). If it doesn't happen this weekend, I'll take you up on the New Years offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 24, 2008 Author Share Posted December 24, 2008 yeah, jim likes all originals to be left in place - i'd def like to be in on checking on those other anchors, as they're at the top of axe of karma/silver crow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 So he'd really rather have an extra hole than to recycle the old one? That's messed up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 24, 2008 Author Share Posted December 24, 2008 "it's a fool who looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaconben Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 I'm all for an ascent of pipedream, and anchor replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 Benny.....what up? See you on NYD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 at a place like beacon where all i here is people bitching about bolts and every damn ethical thing under the sun. here i read dont pull old bolts just drill next to em... WTF is up with this place. ivan wanna go aid elsewhere sometime? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 25, 2008 Author Share Posted December 25, 2008 at a place like beacon where all i here is people bitching about bolts and every damn ethical thing under the sun. here i read dont pull old bolts just drill next to em... WTF is up with this place. ivan wanna go aid elsewhere sometime? of course tyler, just name the place/date i still havne't been to any of the classic oregon spots, 'cept monkey face i wouldn't look for too much ryme nor reason to beacon (or any other place's) rules - mostly i do what i like wherever i am and so far that's worked okay - about the only thing that would annoy me on pipedream would be for it suddenly to have a bunch of bolts where none were before - replacing/removing old bolts ain't a big deal to me, but it is to at least one guy i really like and respect there who's been climbing there since i was still swimming around in my daddy's nutsack, so i tend to listen to him tyler, you'd dig on aiding at beacon big-time - lots of very long, very solid, very scary climbs to be had, and many in essentially FA conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 I kinda like seeing the old shit people used to call anchors. If all the ancient bolts were removed it would be like The Dunes being replaced by whatever hotel is there now. The history would be gone. Sure you can look at it in a musemum some day. It's more exciting to arrive at a belay and see some of that shit but comforting to know you don't have to rely on it. Just got the history of the 900 folks that have bit it in Yos. It seems bolts ripping was a fairly common event along with rope chopping. That being said, it seems they're ripping those old bolts out of walls in the Valley as fast as they can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaconben Posted December 26, 2008 Share Posted December 26, 2008 At first I wanted to get old anchors out of the way, but Opdyke requested that we leave them for history sake. Now I am totally on board with leaving the anchors and adding new ones. As has been said, it's pretty cool to see the crazy old anchors that were used but not have to rely on them. Of course if you are crazy ivan you just rap off whatever is there. As far as the lead bolt, if it is going to be replaced, lets pull it and use the hole, unless it is really unusual one of a kind jingus mank. In that case leave it for others to see. Of course you can just do whatever you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 Keeping old anchors and bolts with any 'history' around them by placement or type has been done. But leaving more than one or two rusted SMC plated hangers or other entirely common junk around is just leaving trash - nothing historic about it. If the idea is anchors are only added, not replaced, regardless of the 'history' quality or content they represent then that's just f#cked up from my perspective. Bolting shouldn't be a one-way deal - they go in, but never come out. And also, it's about the rock and routes, not the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Joseph, I love when a clear cut consensus exists. How about the bolts all magically get refreshed, and nothing gets said about them. Given the state of Pipedream when Ivan went up it, it'll likely be years before Opdyke notices (if ever). Problem solved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Joseph, I love when a clear cut consensus exists. How about the bolts all magically get refreshed, and nothing gets said about them. Given the state of Pipedream when Ivan went up it, it'll likely be years before Opdyke notices (if ever). Problem solved? JO will be awakened from his morning slumber in PDX the moment someone breaks out the drill and starts tapping on his beloved rock. They are one, you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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