el jefe Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 you know you've nailed it when pink shows you his neener neener lizard... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 Can you toprope it? Â Nice cheap shot from another small-minded sport wanker. Pretty sure Mr. Cilley has climbed pitches you'll only dream about. I completely respect that he chooses to toprope where pricks like you would pound a line of bolts. Â Maybe it'S just me, but you come off sounding like a bit of a prick there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 don't worry, bill, it's not just you... Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I think there are really only 4 hard rock routes in the enchantments that hold enough worthy stone for the motivated free-climber. Â CBR-West Face (5.12a): barely holds its own in this category, an awesome line, amazing climbing, but barely more than 10 moves of 5.11 in its entirety. the warm up. Â CBR-The Tempest Wall (project): when freed it will proabaly be the hardest climb in the enchantments, 12a-12d. While the roof pitch will be hard to forget, the rest of the route proabaly isn't much harder than 5.11b. It'll be good climbing through the headwall roofs and the easier crack pitches are good, but it just isn't sustained enough to be the best. Â Dragontail-Dragons of Eden(project): I think this is the one. All it needs is a scrub, a couple of fixed pins, and a sender. Pitch two is five star quality, very aesthetic. The pitch 4 crux (unfreed on lead, reported as 12b) is awesome climbing too: funky face crux above the pillar, then classic thin fingers in a bottomless corner. The quality climbing continues up the great white headwall, with the 11b middle pitch being one of the wilder free pitches i've ever climbed (exposure!). Easy approach, easy descent, an aesthetic line, awesome hard freeclimbing, and a long finish will make this the classic hardperson freeroute. Â Prusik Pk-Der Sportsmen (12a): I do beleive this one's waiting for a second ascent. This one could be a contender. Haven't been on it so i can't really comment, but the line is sick, the topo claims brooke sandhal 5.11 spicy, and the finish is supposed to be wild. Coming into shape right about now, so maybe in the next couple of weeks ill have more to say. Â I think it's an exciting era for the enchantments. In the next couple of years these lines will likely be scrubbed and freed, heralded as the new classics. It's cool to think about them being linked-up, and besides der sportsmen, there isn't a bolt to be found anywhere (please lets not get into that tired uninformed "i heard" bullshit about der). Train hard and get hyped. Oh yeah, and wouldn't it just complete the puzzle if someone put up a hard rock route on Mt. Stuart and we could climb quality alpine 5.12 on each of the big 4. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 Nice post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 You might want to run that list past Mr Doorish Sol... I bet he could add a few more 12s to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 cool, in the enchantments? Â i know that there are hard 12's on some peaks of the cashmere crags, but i was focusing on long, super high-quality, 5.12's on the big 4 (stuart, prusik, cbr, and d-tail). Â i remember hearing that doorish was banned from this website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Guess it depends on your definition of long  I would talk to Craig... seems him or Burdo would at least have an idea of some possible additions to your list or could at least talk to Pete for you. Pete has been very very active in the Enchantments  I dont know about banning... based on what I know/have heard about Pete he is out still putting routes up (@ 59!) instead of wasting time here. That and Pete is so recluse I kinda doubt a BBS is his style. Maybe a mod could chime in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 i remember hearing that doorish was banned from this website. Â I don't believe that's the case, I don't know that he's ever posted here, or on any climbing related BBS for that matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 And to think you didn't believe me when I told you that Wa rock climbing was hopping. Â When was the last time you were in the enchantments? 1970s? Â Forget the mountains let's go cragging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 i remember hearing that doorish was banned from this website. Â I don't believe that's the case, I don't know that he's ever posted here, or on any climbing related BBS for that matter. Â Dru had said he posted as Trask. Trask was banned...ergo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Nope, Pete Doorish was never Trask, I assure you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 There's also a route called the Joust on Prussik Peak near Der Sportsman put up by the infamous Dan Cappellini that has not yet been completely freed. There's also two or three pretty rad looking cracks in the vicinity of Dragonfly / Dragon's of Eden that have yet to be climbed at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 i remember hearing that doorish was banned from this website. Â I don't believe that's the case, I don't know that he's ever posted here, or on any climbing related BBS for that matter. Â Dru had said he posted as Trask. Trask was banned...ergo... Â Did you know that "gullible" is misspelled in most dictionaries? OMG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Did you know that "gullible" is misspelled in most dictionaries? OMG! Â That's bullshit, I just looked it up to see and not only was it spelled correctly but my picture was right there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 WTB colchuck lake floatplane access...and maybe just a long tram from icicle road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoodrat Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Can you toprope it? Â Nice cheap shot from another small-minded sport wanker. Pretty sure Mr. Cilley has climbed pitches you'll only dream about. I completely respect that he chooses to toprope where pricks like you would pound a line of bolts. Â Jeez, dude...did you forget to take your meds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.