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[TR] Valhalla Range - 8 Days in Valhalla 8/3/2008

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Trip: Valhalla Range - 8 Days in Valhalla


Date: 8/3/2008


Trip Report:

Jesse, Graham and I spent 8 days based out of Mulvey Lake climbing and scrambling. we took a lot of gear, hoping to do a couple hard routes, but ended up climbing mostly easier stuff after some encounters with vegetated cracks on Gladsheim and recent rockfall scars on Asgard's south face.


We climbed:

Nisleheim east ridge, 4 pitches, 5.7

Asgard SE ridge, 3 pitches, 5.7

Gladsheim SW Face, variant to the Brown/Marcus, 5 pitches to 5.8 plus 400m of scrambling

Midgard, north and south ridges, 3rd class

Nott to Dag traverse, much scrambling and one rappel, rappel pitch TRed at 5.9 on return using rope left through anchor


We got stormed on the last few days, otherwise, a great week.


Snaffles are voracious at the bivi below Gmli S ridge, not so bad down by the lakes if care is taken to hang food.


Plenty of goats and other critters around. 8 flavours of snafflehound are in situ:

-bushy-tailed woodrat


-Columbia ground squirrel


-regular red squirrel





Bring a saw. We were trapped behind a fallen tree on the way out and had to chop through it with ice axes, a very slow and tedious job that blistered up my city-slicker keyboard-fondling hands but good.


Some pics:






























































Gear Notes:

Full rack, most pieces not needed for the routes we did but we took'em anyways.


Approach Notes:

Bannock Burn road is 2wd. Bring a saw!

4 hrs to hike through Nisleheim-Gimli col and down to lakes. Bring crampons and ice axe for descent from col.

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Awesome pictures Dru!!! I like that one of the guy picking out a souvenir hold to take home with him.



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Sweet! Are there any pics at the traverse from the top of Gladsheim towards Wedge? Does it look feasible?

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1. Nisleheim.


2. It looks like the better option would be to go the other way, from Wedge over to Gladsheim. You could drop down the headwall and climb the SE or SW ridge routes on Wedge to start. The north sides of the crest, out of Gwillim Creek, are glaciated/rubble and offer easier traversing than the ridge crest option.

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The Valhallas do not exist: all pics in this TR were either photoshopped or pulled from other known locales.


Nice TR Dru, I'm jealous. :tup:

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Nice TR Dru, I'm jealous. :tup:

Me too! Great pics. Is that First/Last shot of Mt Gimbly? If not, it must be Mt Gimbly's evil twin... Got shut down on Gimbly about 10 years ago by weather and would love to go back someday. :tup:

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What happened to everbody's ROFLcopter trips?


Edited by jordop

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Hey Dru:

so you're the one who chopped that tree! I told Lucie that it looked like someone had cut it with a knife... hope your ice axe was sharp! Thanks for that anyway!

Just did the S ridge on Gimli yesterday. Great climb... and the views!

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No. There is no overlap of the Jones guide and the Valhallas.

The AAC guide is out of print. Look for a copy (Columbia Mts of Canada W&S) through rare book dealers or online sales.

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