[TR] Fossil Rock - 6/21/2008

[Off_White]

Trip: Fossil Rock -

 

Date: 6/21/2008

 

Trip Report:

Remarkably, though it lies just 20 miles from my house and I've known about it for probably 17 years, I'd never been to Fossil. Perhaps it was tales of chossy rock, drilled pockets, and bolt on holds that put me off, but between a one day climbing window, an interest in something different, and the high cost of gas, I horned in as a third person on cc.com posters Drederek and Logcabinfish Saturday outing and got a good tour.

 

We did a long moderate as a sort of meet the rock outing, and I'll tell you, it's strange stuff. Cobble city, and some of the things you grab and stand on do not inspire confidence, but as the well worn nature of the trails suggest, these routes have seen some traffic and the holds have been tested and approved.

 

 

The formations were interesting, and the vegetation somewhat unusual for the area, with lots of Madrone and poison oak lurking about, some large firs that had escaped the saw (I believe it is on Weyerhauser land), copious honeysuckle, and even a good sized yew tree.

 

It was the rock that was most notable though. I've never really climbed on conglomerate before, unless you count the odd pebble pinching bit at Smith, and this stuff was a whole different ball of wax.

 

 

The climbing was a lot of fun, and with a few routes I began to learn the language.

 

 

While there are some smooth sections, for the most part you're never really at a loss for something to put your foot on.

 

 

The climbing is all quite steep, often with a jutting cap section that tests just how much gas is left in the tank. Sometimes it doesn't matter how big the hold is if you can't hang on.

 

 

At it's best, the stuff was downright stellar, and always fully engaging. One route featured a huge cleaver built out cobbles and matrix sticking straight out, and you wind up grabbing and then standing on top of this thing on the overhanging wall. Damned thing even vibrates, but Drederek assured me it wasn't any more scary or insecure than it was 16 years ago. Still, I wouldn't stand underneath it.

 

 

We ranged about the crag, getting in 7 or 8 pitches and seeing one other climbing party. We closed out the day with a route on the west side, huge fir trees shading the route and keeping the temps pleasant, and a really lovely setting.

 

 

 

Sure, I did see four bolt on holds, and a couple suspiciously tubular holds, but if I get on these 5.12's I suspect it won't be the engineering I'll be pissing and moaning about. Different rock, different crags, different rules. While I wouldn't recommend the area to Raindawg, I'll be back before too long.

 

Big thanks to my partners for a great tour and day out.

 

 

Gear Notes:

It's sport climbing, and what cracks there are would provide questionable placements at best.

 

Approach Notes:

Park at the gated road off Bald Hills Road and bike in. Obvious gated spur on the right in a clearcut leads up hill, stay to the main track until it ends. A short trip down some single track leads to a boulder with a couple eyebolts glued in to lock the bikes to, and a short uphill trudge leads to the crag that crowns the hill.

[Rad]

Interesting rock. Looks a bit like Pinnacles Natl Monument.

Hope those bolts are long glue-ins!

 

[billcoe]

Interesting rock. Looks a bit like Pinnacles Natl Monument.

Hope those bolts are long glue-ins!

 

I was going to ask about this as well. Thanks Doug.

 

 

 

 

 

The backside of this formation is 500' dead vertical and a breathtaking testicular shrinking experience. I am feeling tense, sweating palms, breath catching heart palpitations as I gaze longingly in fear at it's nubbing popping potential and know that I must, no matter what internal conflicts arise, I must ascend and mount her.

 

Oh yes: she will be mine.

 

And Dwayner can go to hell, for she will lovingly caress and enjoy the warm embrace of my firm hard steel as I slip it slowly and steadily into the hole while warm sticky fluid gushes out as I plunge to the final resolution and we merge into oneness......

 

Oh yes..... she will be mine!

[Off_White]

It's not readily apparent what the bolts are. I'm pretty sure some are 5 piece rawls, and some might be glued in. If Lucky is around perhaps he'll chime in, since I heard he's done quite a bit of hardware upgrading out there and knows far more on the subject than I do. Hangers tend to me a mixture of manufactured Fixe or Metolius and welded cold shuts. The bolts are sometimes in the matrix and sometimes in a large embedded cobble. We didn't encounter any loose bolts or alarming installations.

 

 

[Rad]

Bill,

You are sick, but that's why we like you.

Many routes at Pinnacles were put in ground up, drilled by hand on hooks. You could try ground up on hooks for extra spice. Or perhaps go up the backside and then lower down the frontside with your drill for the quickie.

I'll be watching on google earth, the 0.001M resolution version, to properly time my pebble poaching pinkpoint!

R

[catbirdseat]

 

 

Damn thing looks like a giant termite mound.

[billcoe]

Bill,

You are sick, but that's why we like you.

Many routes at Pinnacles were put in ground up, drilled by hand on hooks. You could try ground up on hooks for extra spice. Or perhaps go up the backside and then lower down the frontside with your drill for the quickie.

 

Sick is the word bro! This is one of those supersecret spots for now. I have some brand new 9/16 tied supertape slings I'm a gonna wrap around the nubbins, clip and pray. So the only bolts will be on top, at least in my view, but negotiations are underway on this point yet. This side should go fine, it starts a bit steep and as the elevation increases gets what appears to be remarkably easy. The underlying ash, however, is not as consolidated or as strong as most of us are used too...which explains the interesting weathering patterns and why this area is not a climbing destination. In this case I'll be praying for the belayer and perhaps merging the enterprise with some helmet testing for that same unlucky soul. The backside, in addition to being dead vertical, unfortunately looks like the horrendous "before" picture on a Moss-B-Gone commercial.

 

But this is OW's TR, I don't mean to hijack it. Sowwwwwry!

 

[Drederek]

Thanks for writing this up Off, it was a good day with good peeps. You really showed your depth of experience and proportionately large huevos with your acceptance of the rock as it is, and the ability to climb it in fine style. I've seen "better" climbers than us lose their cool out there.

 

Where are you Humble Ted Ossome?

[Jens]

Great pics and TR!

_________________________

 

The "Ted's wall" (purposefully left out of guidebooks) and had bolts pulled is or was one of the finest sport cliffs in WA and featured some of Washington's very early 5.13 climbing. Ted Otto's "ottoman empire" cave with bolt on holds will challenge to next generation someday (they won't be using the bolt-ons). I'll say that the ottoman empire will be at the forefront of Washington climbing in 20 years. Fossil has lots of really small features that are needed for extreme routes.

I miss the place (I haven't been in 15 years), but want to bring a whole crew of my Seattle Vertical World friends down some Saturday.

Their are a lot of massively overhanging soaring faces way back in the deep woods (most are secret)- The battle of the Bulge area was probably my least favorite venue, but it seems to be the most popular.

 

 

[ivan]

where is this again? how far from da 'couve?

[ken4ord]

Cool TR, first time seeing any pictures of the area, it's reputation as choss and other not so appealing descriptors always kept me from going there.

[LUCKY]

I think Fossil is sedimentary tuff, that meaning a fossilized mud flow, the suspiciously tubular holds are rotted out tree limbs and natural, the rock is like poor quality concrete with jutting out holds, some are Ice burgs some are time bombs, distribute your weight like alpine climbing on choss and you’ll be fine.

The bolts are wedge anchors, there has never been a bolt failure at Fossil, there are left over cold shuts because I could not get the nuts off to replace them with hangers, none are at a hard crux and they will catch you anyway.

Like most climbing areas some climbs are good some are not, if it’s green that should tell you something, it’s best to take a local the first time there, the crag and the good climbing is hard to find.

Beware of ticks in the spring.

Ottoman Empire was striped of holds and hangers years ago by an unknown thief and has long been a henious bushwack to even get there

Jens is right the potential of Fossil being one of the best crags in Washington exists, if it were not for access issues to the mile long valley and taller walls of the same stuff(tuff)

The access at the end of Piessner road has been closed by the Cascadian’s religious retreat that bought the property, the 1000 road access is iffy during the week because it is one of Weyerhaeuser’s main logging roads, Fossil has become more of a weekend crag now, if you go in during the week give the logging trucks plenty of room and if the security guard talks to you be respectful, NEVER drive past the gate.

BTW Fossil is CHOSS don’t go there !!!!

LUCKY

 

[miladugga]

I've been there and agree it's a terrible place, don't go! BTW, has anybody seen the Yoder guide for sale recently, I was looking for one and can't find it? Out of print I suppose. I've got the Washington Rock Climbs.

[pope]

.... Perhaps it was tales of chossy rock, drilled pockets, and bolt on holds that put me off,

 

Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off".

[pope]

...there has never been a bolt failure at Fossil..

 

Although according to Magic Mike, a bolt drilled in a boulder cemented into the matrix on Battle of the Bulge once pulled out and the boulder pulled with it.

[pope]

Park at the gated road off Bald Hills Road and bike in.

 

Used to be able to drive my '79 civic on a "4wd" route around the gate.

[LUCKY]

.... Perhaps it was tales of chossy rock, drilled pockets, and bolt on holds that put me off,

 

Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off".

 

Dude that’s just rude!!!! OFF has declined putting up easy manufactured routes at his crag and it’s a freak’n quarry. He lets people come to his house to climb …just who would put themselves out like that but a very stand up guy!!!

Dude your show’n your ASS!!!

 

 

[LUCKY]

...there has never been a bolt failure at Fossil..

 

Although according to Magic Mike, a bolt drilled in a boulder cemented into the matrix on Battle of the Bulge once pulled out and the boulder pulled with it.

 

That must have been in the days of old before the crag was retrofitted and you used to have to rap from the small madronas at the top of the crag.

I see Mike regularly and I have not heard this story, Yoder is the one that told me there has never been a bolt failure, and he has climbed there longer and more often than anyone else.

 

My girlfriend says your old and crotchety that means you’re like the old wanker that gets up at a meeting and before making his point he starts spray'n about what he used to do until he forgot his point

:wave:LUCKY

 

[pope]

.... Perhaps it was tales of chossy rock, drilled pockets, and bolt on holds that put me off,

 

Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off".

 

Dude that’s just rude!!!! OFF has declined putting up easy manufactured routes at his crag and it’s a freak’n quarry...

 

link (don't know why OW took down the photos)

[pope]

My girlfriend says your old and crotchety ..

 

Don't know/remember your girlfriend. Please advise her to get over me (and stop calling).

[LUCKY]

Park at the gated road off Bald Hills Road and bike in.

 

Used to be able to drive my '79 civic on a "4wd" route around the gate.

 

Thats like eco unfriendly and a good way to screw up access please don't anyone else try this BS

[Off_White]

.... Perhaps it was tales of chossy rock, drilled pockets, and bolt on holds that put me off,

 

Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off".

 

Dude that’s just rude!!!! OFF has declined putting up easy manufactured routes at his crag and it’s a freak’n quarry...

 

link (don't know why OW took down the photos)

 

Uh, that would be because they weren't my photos, fool. It was some educational venue in New Zealand, I guess they took them down. Someone seems to have swallowed the hook though...

[hanman]

Looks similar to the cobbles up at Big 4 NE tower

 

 

MH

[LUCKY]

I just looked up crotchety in the dictionary ….Capriciously stubborn or eccentric; perverse just had to share that

 

Replace Pooh-Bah with crotchety under pope's avatar, it sooo fits his personality .

 

[pope]

.... Perhaps it was tales of chossy rock, drilled pockets, and bolt on holds that put me off,

 

Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off".

 

Dude that’s just rude!!!! OFF has declined putting up easy manufactured routes at his crag and it’s a freak’n quarry...

 

link (don't know why OW took down the photos)

 

Uh, that would be because they weren't my photos, fool. It was some educational venue in New Zealand, I guess they took them down. Someone seems to have swallowed the hook though...

 

You got me! OW, we should do a climb some time. What's on your wish list?