telemarker Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 (edited) Trip: The Enchantments - The Flagpole Date: 6/7/2008 Trip Report: Apparently, the Flagpole is visited by more birds than humans. However, with yesterday's gusting cold winds, no bird would be stupid enough to be anywhere near the Flagpole. So many trips have been inspired by thumbing through the Beckey alpine guides. These days, as many trip ideas are sparked by browsing John Scurlock photos. This photo in his archive, I noted an easy looking gulley down the west shoulder of Little Annapurna that led to an easy traverse to the Flagpole. Four years ago, we approached the Flagpole up Ingalls Creek then up Crystal Creek. From there, we ascended the east side of Pennant Peak via a circuitous, non-obvious route. This approach made it impossible to knock off Flagpole in a day. So, with this new look at Flagpole courtesy of Scurlock, Kyle Flick and I knew we could climb the Flagpole in a day. The only unknowns were the bolts being old and the hangers too small to accomodate carabiners, and the top anchor. So, we hoarded our Neutrinos and headed out hoping for the best given the iffy forecast. It was gusty from the get-go, and cold. The forecast was right in predicting the wind, but wrong on the precip. The clouds seemed to dissipate in an apparent line right at Dragontail Peak. We started out from the car around 4.30am hitting this overly familiar trail up to Colchuck Lake. This was Kyle's 4th trip up there this year, and my 3rd. We're creatures of habit. The cold temps made for perfect cramponing. Kyle declared it, "Good neve." At the top of Aasgard the cold wind gusts seemed to be sustained and unrelenting. We were pleased to see that looking east there was sun and broken clouds, so we had hope for the Flagpole. We dropped down an easy snow gulley west of Little Annapurna and descended about 800 feet down around a rock rib. This placed us about 1,000 feet to the base of the climbing. An easy ascent put us at the start of the climbing, which was a pitch and a half to the base of the Flagpole. The second pitch to the notch was eye-opening. I climbed a tricky slab with no pro other than an old funky bolt. After that, it was an easy romp to the belay just below the Flagpole. The biting wind was our constant companion, our only comfort being that the sun was making its way around to us. Still, it was cold. I climbed up to the top of the pedastal just below the first bolt of the bolt ladder. I was balanced on this pedastal trying to extract the useless tat hitched to the hangar, fighting to maintain my balance and fear. Looking down the east side of this pedastal is a loooong drop, the west wind trying to topple me over. It took some time to get rid of the rotten webbing and finally put my own cord in its place. From there it was bolt to bolt aiding, using my cord or a rivet hangar, whichever seemed better at the time. On the fourth bolt which is reached by a tension traverse, there was an old oval jammed into the hangar cemented there. This put a bad outward torque on the old bolt, so I didn't spend too much time on this one. Between the 5th and the 6th bolt I had to top-step to reach it (I'm 6'2", with an ape index of 6'7") right at the end of my reach. I noted there is obviously a bolt missing something to keep in mind if you want to climb this. I reached the 8th and seemingly final bolt of the ladder which was a rusty "Beckey Bolt" but with a hangar that took real carabiners! There is a wide crack that leads to the final arete to the top, and I placed a nut in an adjacent flake to see if I could see if there was anymore pro up higher around the arete. As I weighted the stopper, the flake popped sending me for a ride. I had time to think, "Gee, this will be interesting to see if the bolt(s) hold a fall..." I came to a gentle stop ten feet later. Kyle says he's okay but that the flake (about 2 fweet in diameter and sharp) landed a couple feet from him-the good news-but that it landed squarely on the ropes-bad news. He lowers me and we inspect the double ropes. They both have multiple core shots. We flake both of them carefully and end up cutting the ropes about five times where we see the core. We coil up both ropes and use what we can to rappel, using the extra pieces as rappel cord. In two rappels we're at the base of the climbing and back to our gear. We're a bit shaken up as Kyle states that moments before the fall he was sitting right where it landed. We could only imagine had he been injured what a rescue would have been in cold conditions in such a remote location. It was a vivid reminder of the dangerous game we play sometimes out there. We pack up our stuff relieved but also bummed at not making the summit. We still feel fortnate to be out there. We decide to exit out the gulley that cleaves Little Annapurna. We top out on this easy couloir and run over to the summit of Little Annapurna the wind gusts beating us down the whole time. In fact, there was no respite from the wind the entire day until we got down to Colchuck Lake. The long trudge around the lake and down the trail deposited us at the car at 11.30pm, 19 hours after leaving. A few too many photos of the trip: Hiking towards Little Annapurna, with McClellan Peak in the background Hiking up Little Annapurna Heading down the gulley west of Little Annapurna The Flagpole in the middle of the formation Kyle at the second belay Me contemplating the first bolt. What you don't see is the unrelenting wind The tension traverse the next bolt South of Little Annapurna Looking West towards Stuart Exit gulley Top of Little Annapurna Walking towards Aasgard Backside of Dragontail Edited June 9, 2008 by telemarker Quote
DRep Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 I'm glad to hear you guys are alright! Thanks for the bolt condition beta. How's the snow at Colchuck Lake? Quote
telemarker Posted June 9, 2008 Author Posted June 9, 2008 Thanks. There are just small patches left around the lake now...Probably be gone in a week. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 what an awesome day trip, with tons of great beta and a bit of excess excitement. Quote
John Frieh Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 Nice job sniffing out that approach! Good you guys got away unscathed! Great TR! Quote
G-spotter Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 Apparently the problem you experienced was due to your skinny rope having been "flake magnetized". After having this problem with several of my own ropes over the years I have come up with a 100% organic rope degaussing solution which I am selling for $50 a bottle. One bottle contains approximately 10 applications. Send PM with your address, credit card # and expiration date. Your ropes will thank you! Quote
Sherri Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 The tension traverse the next bolt Incredible shot! (glad it wasn't me up there though. Yikes.) Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 It's good style to knock down loose rock so us future climbers can have more fun. I like reports like this one. Quote
plexus Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 Yikes! Glad you guys got down safely. I've dislodged a couple of near-widowmakers and those shook me up almost as much as it did the person it almost plunked. Quote
olyclimber Posted June 10, 2008 Posted June 10, 2008 nice! i approached from the other side like you did on your last trip and had a FAIL expedition. i have been thinking about going back this way, and now i'm sure it is the best approach. Quote
telemarker Posted June 10, 2008 Author Posted June 10, 2008 nice! i approached from the other side like you did on your last trip and had a FAIL expedition. i have been thinking about going back this way, and now i'm sure it is the best approach. I agree. Crystal Creek basin is indeed gorgeous, but it leaves you a long way from the Flagpole. Quote
Tokogirl Posted June 11, 2008 Posted June 11, 2008 Heard you and Kyle were heading up there from Linda! Glad to know you didn't blow away Quote
Rad Posted June 11, 2008 Posted June 11, 2008 Cool. Thanks for cleaning the route! I was not able to convince my partner to head over there after we went up Prussik. Do you think that thing could go free at 5.11 or under, perhaps if bolts were placed in different spots? Is there quality climbing (at least 5.8, sustained, clean, protectable, interesting) in your approach? Just curious. Quote
telemarker Posted June 11, 2008 Author Posted June 11, 2008 Cool. Thanks for cleaning the route! I was not able to convince my partner to head over there after we went up Prussik. Do you think that thing could go free at 5.11 or under, perhaps if bolts were placed in different spots? Is there quality climbing (at least 5.8, sustained, clean, protectable, interesting) in your approach? Just curious. The climbing is okay leading up to the Flagpole. Nothing remarkable. Mostly broken, a few 5.8 moves at most. As far as bolting Flagpole in, "different spots," I think it would be a shame to turn it into swiss cheese just so it can be free climbed. If anything, if you feel ambitious upgrade the existing bolts and try to free it. Quote
telemarker Posted June 15, 2008 Author Posted June 15, 2008 (edited) Kyle and I finished the Flagpole yesterday in perfect conditions. This additional information will hopefully fill in the gaps about this climb. The approach is very easy on the west side of the W. Buttress of Little Annapurna. Look for easy class 3 ledges leading straight to the Flagpole. This approach makes this climb an easy day trip. Now that the flake has been "cleaned", there is a wide crack that you must use to make a few free moves to the finishing arete. We protected it with a #6 camalot and it worked great. Top anchor is a rusty 1/4 inch bolt, a solid knifeblade and a shiny new bolt. Combine Flagpole with the S. Face of Little Annapurna, which we climbed in two pitches of 5.8 on excellent rock. 16.5 hours car to car. Edited June 15, 2008 by telemarker Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 16, 2008 Posted June 16, 2008 Cool - good job and thanks for the update. It was nice chatting with you guys at the Colchuck TH Sat night (we were the two guys planning the Colchuck-DTail combo) Quote
telemarker Posted June 16, 2008 Author Posted June 16, 2008 Cool - good job and thanks for the update. It was nice chatting with you guys at the Colchuck TH Sat night (we were the two guys planning the Colchuck-DTail combo) Hey, nice meeting you guys too. How'd the link-up go for you guys? Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 16, 2008 Posted June 16, 2008 Cool - good job and thanks for the update. It was nice chatting with you guys at the Colchuck TH Sat night (we were the two guys planning the Colchuck-DTail combo) Hey, nice meeting you guys too. How'd the link-up go for you guys? Awesome. I'll post a TR. We didn't get home until late. We didn't need to run up the gully below Pandora's box after all- there was an easy step across move from the cornice. Quote
Bishopp66 Posted June 18, 2008 Posted June 18, 2008 Glad to see you made it... a long hike for that last 15'. I was one of the two guys you talked to camped by the pond next to Colchuck Lake. Same day we did Colchuck, Dragon Tail, Witches Tower Scramble Route (I was getting tired, so I kept heading to Little Annapurna) and Little Annapurna. What a great day in the upper basin. Saw 11 people total in 2.5 days... NICE!!! Quote
telemarker Posted June 19, 2008 Author Posted June 19, 2008 Glad to see you made it... a long hike for that last 15'. I was one of the two guys you talked to camped by the pond next to Colchuck Lake. Same day we did Colchuck, Dragon Tail, Witches Tower Scramble Route (I was getting tired, so I kept heading to Little Annapurna) and Little Annapurna. What a great day in the upper basin. Saw 11 people total in 2.5 days... NICE!!! Wow, you guys covered a lot of ground up there. Nice meeting you. What happened to Prusik?! No legs left? Quote
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