Best small cams

[BDEL]

I am moving to Leavenworth this summer to do as much climbing as possible whenever the Forest Service doesn't need me. To round out my rack I've decided to buy some small cams. I'm not much into aid climbing, and I have been trying to decide between the C3s and Metolius' Ultralight TCUs. From what I've read they are about equivalent and whichever brand you prefer (Be it BD or Metolius) makes the best TCUs.

 

What I've noticed is the Metolius TCUs have a much larger head width due to the two cables on the sides of the cam lobes. Also, C3s seem much more flexible to me, which is appealing for use in horizontal cracks. I've never used anything that small before, any thoughts?

 

Also, I've been comparing the new Master Cams to the C3s and feel that any difference in head width is negligible when looking at the #1 (Met Blue and BD Red). The Metolius is much more flexible than any of the TCUs and also has 4 lobes. I'm not sure if the 4 lobes is an advantage or not. I called down at Metolius and they said, for those interested in free climbing, try and wait for the 0 and 00 in the Master Cam. They aren't going to start manufacturing them until Mid-June.

 

I think that the Metolius Master Cam would probably be the best buy for size 00 and 0 when compared to the C3 or UL-TCU, due to equivalent (with the C3) range and head size and also has increased flexibility. (Price also is $55)

 

I would appreciate any help with my dilemma. I have no preference between brands, as I own an even mix of Metolius and BD cams as it is (Although I do live in Oregon).

 

Thanks!

[ericb]

to add to your dilemma....there's the highly polarizing aliens, and also, many seem to like wild country zeroes.

[rob]

i prefer zeros to c3s, but I've only climbed on c3s a couple times. I love aliens.

[ivan]

aliens, unless they kill you

[BDEL]

I've heard good things about both Zeros and Aliens, unfortunately they aren't 20% off at REI right now.

[ericb]

I've heard good things about both Zeros and Aliens, unfortunately they aren't 20% off at REI right now.

 

since C3s are 20%+ more than zeroes to begin with, I'm not sure why this would drive the purchasing decision

[BDEL]

OK so I checked out the zeros and they look pretty sweet. Does the longer stem on the newer version make a big difference? There is also a larger trigger on the newer one that is appealing. Thanks!

[ericb]

OK so I checked out the zeros and they look pretty sweet. Does the longer stem on the newer version make a big difference? There is also a larger trigger on the newer one that is appealing. Thanks!

 

Yes - on the smaller sizes, I found that the short stems made getting to the trigger very difficult if the cam was deep in the crack at all. I think a lot of shops don't carry the short stems for this reason.

[tradclimbguy]

I have a full set of the long stem zero's and of course a couple sets of aliens. I just can't shake two sets of aliens but the zero's are very nice. They really seem to like Yosemite granite and stick like glue.

 

The only problem I have with the zero's is he very small range each has. Of the four only three are really useful on the free rack and of those three they have a very narrow range each. Still good as doubles or maybe triples behind the aliens.

[BDEL]

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to go with zero long stems #3 and #4, which are the equivalent of a 00 and 0 BD. I also have a Master Cam #1. That's about all I think I'm going to buy for the small stuff (smaller than a .3 BD). Maybe I'll double up on the Zeros, but I don't think I'm going to go smaller than the #3. Thanks!

[hemp22]

for what it's worth, i have the 4 largest WC zeroes, Z3-Z6, and I have never placed the Z3. At such a small size, the range is just miniscule (not to mention to low strength). I'd be inclined to get a double in the size of the yellow #2 metolius, or the 0.4 camalot, before getting a Z3.

 

As for which brand, I think both metolius and BD make solid, quality gear, so the decision between TCU, master cam, & C3 is really up to your personal preference.

[catbirdseat]

I've been quite happy with the one zero I own, the #6. I wish they made a couple of larger sizes.

[G-spotter]

the best small cams is the one having the most fun

[minx]

i have both older aliens (hopefully they won't kill me)and zeroes and i've used some of the c3s. i like the aliens the best but the zeroes are just fine with me.

[billcoe]

The Metolius Master cams are the one to buy, by a nose.

 

Offsets: Aliens still. The C3's are better than the Metolius TCS, which are pretty good and nothing to diss on at all.

 

They all have a place, there are some great TCU placements on various routes around here.

 

Thats my take.

[denalidave]

So Bill, if you were to buy just one set of small cams, it would be the new Master Cams? I'm updating my original Aliens soon and think the Master Cams are the ones I'm getting but have yet to actually fondle one, let alone place any. The one thing I really hate about the original aliens is the way the trigger would get all twisted around but I'm guessing they fixed that flaw on the later versions?

[texplorer]

They haven't changed a thing on the aliens in forever (except the heads). I have tried out a few of the first master cams in production a month or so back. As a long time alien fan I will say I was actually impressed. The master cams are so similar to aliens its probably some sort of copyright infringement (not that the pot-smokers at CCH would ever realize that).

 

The short story is that the max cams are a good alternative to aliens. They are still not quite as versatile but then again you aren't wondering if it was a 1 or a 4 bong-hit day at the factory.

 

If your even more of a gear junkie take a look at my buddy's extremely detailed review at RC.com

[JosephH]

I use Lowe/Byrne ball nuts pretty relentlessly. I did a route yesterday that went with a #3 and #1 in the mix and I rarely leave the ground without a #1-3 or 4 on my rack. So at the very small end I'd say watch ebay for the Lowe/Byrne units or pick up the Trango BallNutz. They're rated 8kn except the #1 which is 4.5kn