Picket Range end of May/June am I stupid?

[dietcookie]

A buddy and I are flying out to WA in hopes of climbing something, anything at all. Initial plans were Rainier but I'd like to explore some actual ranges, not a big volcano. If weather doesn't cooperate, then we will settle with Rainier, Adams or Baker.

 

I've been eying the Picket Range. Long approaches, cross country travel etc etc in the Sierras make me think I *might* be able to handle it. I understand that the typical visitation period is in the middle of the summer since the chances of being rained out are too great otherwise. With about 5 days we can dedicate to being out there, will it be worth it??

Edited February 5, 2008 by dietcookie

[Mal_Con]

Assuming this is not a troll, It is not like the Sierra at all.This will be a heavy snow year. The brush may be covered making for possible travel. It requires full snow and rock gear and persistence but is doable. Skoog Ski Traverse cir. 1985

Edited February 5, 2008 by Mal_Con

[Dannible]

May/June can be a very wet time of year around here. Look at the long term forecast and decide where you will go based on the weather. You might have better luck if you go somewhere east of the crest such as Washington Pass or the Pasayten Wilderness instead. If the weather doesn't look good then there is no point in going to a volcano, as the weather will likely be really bad up there.

[letsroll]

second what Dannible said. If weather is bad for pickets the forget the volcano's. It will be really bad there.

[goatboy]

Long approaches and cross country travel in the Sierras.....entails elevation gain in open terrain, large timber, or granite slabs....maybe snow in early season.....but is nothing like the Pickets.

 

The Cascades are known for tough weather and terrain. The Pickets are known as some of the most challenging terrain in the Cascades.

 

I don't want to discourage, but I'm not sure I'd suggest choosing an itinerary like this so far in advance without having weather-dependent backup options! East side options (like the enchantments outside of Leavenworth) or the WA Pass area (outside of Mazama) might be very reasonable things to research as well.

[dietcookie]

Thanks for the suggestions. I just read something along the lines of some dudes from that link..

 

"Parties have been known to spend days wrestling the brush to travel just a few miles down one of those valleys. "

 

That sounds pretty shitty if this will be one of the only trips i'll be able to go on for the year. But If this is a heavy snow year and some of the brush is covered in snow, i'd be willing to suffer. The Ptarmigan Traverse (or part of it) would look pretty fun around that time of the year.

 

 

Edited February 5, 2008 by dietcookie

[mattp]

Goatboy has the right idea. If weather and snow conditions are favorable, you could have a good five day trip to the southern Pickets but if I were you I'd keep in mind some alternate destinations. The east side of the range might offer some slightly drier alternatives but in stormy weather the higher areas around Washington Pass and Leavenworth are likely to be hard hit as well. You might end up cragging or something.

 

Don't fear the brush. The horror stories you read are true but you can avoid that nightmare by doing a little homework before you go and paying attention once you hit the trail.

[sobo]

...The Ptarmigan Traverse (or part of it) would look pretty fun around that time of the year.

 

I was thinking of that for mid-August this year meself...

[AlpineK]

I tried to do an early Southern Pickets trip in '06. It wasn't nearly the snow year that things are shaping into this year.

 

Things looked questionable but not outrageous when we started in. We got up to about 5000' then things looked bad so we camped out, but the next morning it still looked bad.

 

We hiked down and drove to Mazama. One day of cragging and a climb of Clean Break on Juno worked out just fine with reasonable weather.

[Blake]

That time of year would be nice for ski tours (assuming the weather is ok, which is unlikely...)

 

You could potentially ski the Ptarmigan traverse, climb some stuff along the way, and never look at the Sierras the same way again.

[dietcookie]

Ptarmigan looks awesome, I don't have access to a topo at the moment, but from what I can remember its near the pickets somewhat correct? So if the pickets are getting bad weather, then I might as well not go near the northern cascades... typically at that time of the year in the northern cascades in the higher elevations does bad weather typically bring snow, rain or a combo of both?

[Stefan]

I think early June is a good time--only if the weather cooperates. As others have said, I recommend a backup plan for the eastside of the Cascades. The weather does not cooperate in June as much as it does from mid July to mid September.

 

With early June you have:

Higher elevation brush beaten down.

The alpine rock is free of snow.

And you do not have to deal with annoying scree.

some mosquitos

 

With May you have:

Pretty much most brush beaten down...but appearing.

alpine rock on steep faces is definitely gone..but some cracks and crevices have snow.

Could have snow showers.

Do not have annoying scree.

not really mosquitos, but may appear

 

With July you have:

The existence of brush at all elevations on the approach.

The alpine rock is free of snow.

You have annoying scree.

Mosquitos.

 

BTW: Hottest time period is usually end of July to first week of August.

[chucK]

Could be good weather, could be bad weather. Bad weather would likely bring whiteout and drizzle. Possibly snow. Good weather could bring massive afternoon avalanches. Pick your route/time of day wisely!

 

Like Goatboy said, the jungle factor and the rugged terrain make off-trail travel in the Cascades much more problematic than in most regions of the Sierra. That said the early season that you are thinking of will minimize brush and steep couloir problems. You'll certainly want to plan for maximizing snow travel even if you don't choose a volcano (that is, ice axe, crampons, camping on snow).

 

 

 

 

[dietcookie]

Thanks for the breakdown Stefan.

 

I could just tick off Adam's Glacier route which I attempted last year if anything. I'm going to hope the NW keeps getting snow, i'd rather slog up snow than scree and brush any day. Thanks for all the suggestions so far. This time period will be the only time we can really get into the PNW and I really wanted to do some real mountaineering stuff, you know snow, glaciers, cool views all the goods. We get all that here in the sierras, except for the glaciers.

[Nick]

June, in one of the nice weather windows, can be a great time to climb the volcanoes. Most of the crevasses tend to be filled in so the routes are usually direct and easy. Climb early so as to be back down before the afternoon heat makes the snow nasty, slushy and more prone to slide.

 

When choosing a route for May and June, particularly on a heavy snow year like this one, keep in mind that the upper reaches of many access roads may still be snowed in, so you may have an extra long approach.

[Skeezix]

No... You're not stupid.

[dietcookie]

June, in one of the nice weather windows, can be a great time to climb the volcanoes. Most of the crevasses tend to be filled in so the routes are usually direct and easy. Climb early so as to be back down before the afternoon heat makes the snow nasty, slushy and more prone to slide.

 

When choosing a route for May and June, particularly on a heavy snow year like this one, keep in mind that the upper reaches of many access roads may still be snowed in, so you may have an extra long approach.

 

Yeah we figured that some if not most of the trail heads we want to start out of will be inaccessible. We first planned this trip for the end of March, we were expecting to add miles to any approach. I have my mind set on the Pickets, I guess if the weather is good once we are up there then we are there. If not, either any of the volcanoes or some goods along mt baker highway. If the weather is crappy for sure, then i'm down to suffer with a shorter approach.

[mattp]

The standard trailheads for the Pickets will be accessible. They are on highway 20.

[Dannible]

If not, either any of the volcanoes or some goods along mt baker highway.

 

Again, be careful heading up to a volcano in bad weather. You can do it in a whiteout, but things can get pretty crazy with strong winds and snow and all that good stuff. Lots of people have died on them because they ignored the weather. Easier climbs on smaller mountains (like some on Baker HW) can be a lot of fun in bad weather.

[goatboy]

What about the Pickets are you interested in?

 

Northern Pickets (harder approach, arguably more spectacular area) are kinda different from Southern Pickets ("easier" approach but still not EASY - more rock routes with glacier travel than snow and ice).

 

Something like McMillan Spire? Or maybe Fury or Luna?

 

I think either Fury or Luna might be reasonable objectives for you to consider, not knowing what you're after, in particular...

[dietcookie]

If not, either any of the volcanoes or some goods along mt baker highway.

 

Again, be careful heading up to a volcano in bad weather. You can do it in a whiteout, but things can get pretty crazy with strong winds and snow and all that good stuff. Lots of people have died on them because they ignored the weather. Easier climbs on smaller mountains (like some on Baker HW) can be a lot of fun in bad weather.

 

Any suggestions on the smaller guys that would be fun?

 

Goatboy: Mt. Fury, looks fucking bad ass. Thats it. I have to be there.

 

This whole time I was looking at the various goods in the Pickets but I just sat here for an hour going through info on Fury. I think I have made my choice

[wayne]

Mmmm, Fury. My personal favorite. Anyone ever climb the ice shield route?

[goatboy]

Hey Wayne,

 

I scraped my way up the NE Face ("Ice Shield") back in about 2001 or so. It was fabulous.

 

The snow arete (top of the N Buttress route) was memorable.

 

One of my best days ever in the Cascades!

 

The next day, grovelling down the SE Glacier in a total whiteout, was suitably humbling as well....

 

Was I Stupid???

 

goatboy

[Squall]

...The Ptarmigan Traverse (or part of it) would look pretty fun around that time of the year.

 

I was thinking of that for mid-August this year meself...

 

Why wait for august?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[wayne]

Stable weather, firm snow, mosqs start going away, etc