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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

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billcoe

Red Rocks pictures

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You know when everyone is talkin about clipping bolts to their shoes, it's time for a climbing pic or 2. I've put some words on the site earlier about this trip, so this will mostly be pics.

 

Me topping out on Lotta Balls

Bill_topping_out_lotta_balls.jpg

Me leading the Elephants trunk on Epinephrine. 9 hours 10 min car to car.

Bill_leading_the_Elephants_trunk1.jpg

Next day: rest day at the Pool, the temp was 76 degrees. Thats not a 6 pak, thats a pony keg:-)

Bill_on_rooftop.jpg

 

The crowd on Turkeys - this is the optional top pitches, like P 8 and 9 up there. We'd been waiting for @30 min at this point and bagged it there, figuring 1000 feet of varied 5.10 and interesting moves was good, why F* it up with a clusterF*. It was a good call.

The_waiting_game_on_Wild_Turkeys.jpg

Start of Wild Turkeys

Bill_on_P3_belay_of_Dream_of_Wild_Turkeys.jpg

 

Bill on P2 of Dream of Wild Turkeys after the traverse below:

Bill_on_P2_of_Dream_of_Wild_Turkeys1.jpg

Ujahn P3 Wild Turkeys

Ujhan_on_P3_of_Wild_Turkeys.jpg

 

On Lotta Balls

Bill_on_Lotta_Balls_p31.jpg

 

This may have been the last pair of tennis shoes made in the USA

Bills_shoes_rack_for_Black_Pantys.jpg

Ujahn following p2 Epinephrine

Epinephrine_p2_Ujahn_following.jpg

Ujahns awesome wife Tara had seen fit to send down some medicine for his foot. This is what happens when new shoes converge with a long route. Fortunately - she sent 3 bottles of medicine. The other 2 were used as a toast to presage a quiet moment to commemorate Jim Anglins passing.

Ujahns_foot_and_medicine.jpg

 

Ujahn leading on P2 of Dream of Wild Turkeys: Dwayner will be happy to know that because of bolts, some of the most incredible routes in the world are now do-able, this being one of them, all bolts were clipped in the making of this picture.

Ujan_on_p1_Wild_Turkeys.jpg

 

Ujhan leading upper Epi.

Epinephrine_p8_Ujahn.jpg

These guys were on the route we wanted to get on, so we jumped on the route to the left: Lotta Balls. As I'm on route, I realize I'd done that one before many years ago. Thank the Lord the 1/4" bolts had been replaced! I don't climb as good now as then. The dudes yammered back and forth on walkie talkies , we did our route, then jumped on that one, this is a pic as we blew by them.

Dude_on_Brujas_Brew.jpg

Here's some more, mostly Epinephrine shots. We had that route to ourselves all day, which was nice as I hadn't climbed for 2 months letting my elbow heal and we both were out of shape, me more than Ujahn as he's always in pretty good condtion working as a contractor. (Side note, if you need a guy to work on your house, he's your dude-honest, hardworking and skilled). Note to anyone who wants to do this route, although I love the Metolius double big wall gear sling, especially since you can cram a water bottle in it and it is perfectly balanced, a single gear sling probably works better on this route.

 

Ujahn in the chimney...somewhere.

Ujahn_leading_P5_don_t_fall.jpg

Ujahn after the last technical pitch, we simuclimbed the last 400-500 feet with pro. If you're doing this route for the first tie, as there is some real loose stuff up there, I'd definatly recommend staying roped up. I think it can be simul-soled with no rope relatively safely if you stay on the route, but the speed gain is negligible, so Ujahn just ran up dropping in pieces, and I followed tied in, a rope length back. Why not just be safe for the last bit?

Ujahn_last_400_feet_epinephrine.jpg

P6 Epi

Epinephrine_p6.jpg

2 pitches above the Elephants trunk

Ujhan_on_2P_above_the_trunk_Epinephrine.jpg

 

Ujhan_on_P_above_the_trunk_Epinephrine.jpg

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Thanks Bill... RR was my stop'n grounds for many years and it's nice to see your pics. Sure hope I can get down there to climb this year as it has been at least 7 years since I have had the fortune to do so.

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Ujahn following p2 Epinephrine

Epinephrine_p2_Ujahn_following.jpg

 

Totally awesome pictures Bill. This looks like pitch one? Or maybe we did a long first pitch?

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I would believe whatever you say Kevin. You have an uncanny ability which I don't share to remember every lil foothold, reach, placement and move of every route you do. I can't even remember the names, even if I named it.

 

For instance: I didn't remember being on Lotta Balls till I started up it, I was thinking "hmmm, this looks familiar", then I finished the first Pitch and remembered the bolts on P2.

 

:wave:

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Nice pics thanks for the porn. A friend was just down there, I was unable to go. After hearing his accound and looking at your pics I am really wanting to go now.

 

 

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Great pictures and wonderful post. I love that place too, what a truly splendid place to climb.

Happy to hear you had such a productive and fun outing!

 

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Thanks. Yeah it was good, and the climbing was only part of it. Saw my brother in law and his wife, was up some gambling too but only came back with $400+ more than I left with. My son estimated he made me $600 on basketball alone. I was up on cards too. Don't know where all the rest of the winnings went cause I wasn't really spending it (I count as I leave my house and then when I get back to determine the outcome), did the company work I went down to do, got to hang with my brother on my birthday too as he came down and also came back with a slight tan too.

 

 

Sherri's going back down New Years, maybe we can all crowd into a corner of her car and she won't notice us.

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If you hide under a pile of money, I'm sure I wouldn't notice you at all. :eveeel:

 

Looks like you had all the fun, though. Shoulda saved sum for me. :(

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If you hide under a pile of money, I'm sure I wouldn't notice you at all. :eveeel:

 

Looks like you had all the fun, though. Shoulda saved sum for me. :(

 

Oh theres still plenty left Sherri! Both money and fun!

 

A couple of the more enjoyable things for me after the climbing with Ujahn was over this time was calling my son everyday for the rundown of the basketball games.

 

I'd say, looking at the sheet full of scores and the days scheduled games: "OK, Denver is playing at Houston and is favored by 3."

 

He'd reply something like: Well, Alan Iverson's playing good, Denver will beat the spread."

 

Me: "Iverson is playing for Denver?" What happened to Philly?"

 

"Dad PLEEAASSSE! ! Whatta, live in a cave? Iverson got traded 3 years ago! Besides, Iverson's hitting that 20' step back jumper and he's getting strong crossovers and a half step on even the new guys since his calf muscle healed! He'll probably get 20 points on drives alone, Denver for sure."

 

Me: "Oh" (making frantic notes). "Uhh, Ok, what do you think on the over-under if I said 212?"

 

Lad: "Over."..... Denvers also got Carmello Anthony dad, and Houston's healthy and will be takin it down court on the fly, over for sure".

 

long pause.....

 

 

OK, "How about the Lakers and Sonics?"

 

And that's how that went. Lad was 32 wins, 18 losses. Some of the loses were when his team pick had their opponents drop a bucket in the last second to beat the spread.

 

I was up on Blackjack too, but I bet low stakes and mostly just visited with folks: hanging with my brother at a blackjack table can run towards being a 3 ring circus where everyone is involved.

 

Brother says to the card dealer: "How do you get comped for breakfast here"?

 

Dealer " Oh that's Jacks call, he's the pit boss".

 

Bro: "Oh, thanks - could you call Jack over here?"

 

Jack gets to the table. Bro then starts what will prove to be a relentless running series of side negotiations with Jack for the next mornings breakfast as the cards continue to fly and the friendly Midwest couple at the table stare amazed at this display of unbridled Chutzpah unlike anything they've ever seen or perhaps ever will see.

 

"Jack", says bro, waving his hands to show he's including everyone at the table "this table wants breakfast comped tomorrow".

 

Jack: "I'm sorry, but complimentary breakfasts are for registered guests or players club members only blah blah blah".

 

"Jack, please": starts in bro with his opening salvo of what will prove to be more than Jack ever has to deal with: "Millie and Don there came all the way from Topeka to be here," pauses for effect and gestures to the beaming couple, who appear enchanted to be involved in the discussion "and we've been sitting here having a great time giving your boss's money and supporting your casino so you can get a big paycheck and don't you think it's only fair that you give us a little something in return?"

 

10 min of this dialog and Jack leaves. No breakfast....yet.

 

5-10 min later...the card game continuing... Bro notices Jack on the other side of the pit again and within a few seconds has the whole table chanting and clapping in unison like the frikkan world series game is on the line "JACK JACK JACK JACK JACK. With at least 1/2 the casino looking at us, stopped dead in mid-card deal to watch this unusual interruption, Jack comes over to the table which is now at fever pitched laughter at having won this little drama and gotten Jacks attention, and Jack is torn because they don't like this raucous behavior in casinos, but this group is still playing, laughing and joking: obviously having a great time and to Jack they look prepared to give up their kids college funds and the title to their homes once the bank account gets depleted if it continues, so Jack tries to be cool and with a wry smile quietly and almost shyly asks everyone to keep it down a bit by saying "shhhh, guys, keep it down a little will ya, you don't want me to lose my job now do you"?

 

Everyone gets quiet and then Bro starts in again: "Come on Jack, how much is breakfast really going to cost you guys?". You're buying the eggs wholesale, at a nickel and egg, why thats gonna cost you only" ..pause to do the math...."40 cents..thats if everyone here even has 2 eggs tomorrow morning.....blah blah etc etc", "why hell Jack, I'd think you'd want us wandering back in tomorrow for breakfast so we'd drop all our sports book money here...etc etc."

 

This little drama plays out for about an hour until finally Jack relents and gives everyone at the table a complimentary breakfast, thus saving everyone the $2.99 they would have had to pay otherwise. We give our leave to Don and Millie, and everyone walks out with the breakfast coupons and are feeling like Ed McMahon just told them they'd won the Publishers Clearinghouse Sweepstakes.

 

On the way over to breakfast, coupon in hand and still high from that winning feeling, Bro says: "What do you think about heading over to look at the new Bentleys in the Wynn?"

 

When we get there, they want $10 to just walk in the door. People are paying it too. Bro has never paid to look at a car in his life and won't start now so he will have none of that of course...it's game on again! Culminating with bro getting us in the dealership and trying to suck a complimentary lunch out of them as well.

 

And so it goes.

 

My brother, he's so damn much fun. This kind of thing happens on and off the whole time he's there. Never a dull moment. Yeah, I'd better join you Sherri. I might be under that pile of money behind your drivers seat. :wave:

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If you can bring your Bro, we won't need the pile of money. Sounds like with his negotiation prowess, you guys went first class all the way. ;)

 

I bet Millie and Don are gonna want to come too. :laf:

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Bill was there still a 2.5 gold friend stuck on the sweet 160ft P3 that Ujahn led of dream of wild turkeys. My buddy stuck that cam of mine almost right where he is in that picture. Did you have a chance to go to the "Out of Control Area"? It is across the canyon from dark shadows.

 

ps: I have a growler to fill up and we should get a pub club together after all the santa craziness is done. I am in PDX until the 10th.

Edited by powderhound

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Bill was there still a 2.5 gold friend stuck on the sweet 160ft P3 that Ujahn led of dream of wild turkeys. My buddy stuck that cam of mine almost right where he is in that picture. Did you have a chance to go to the "Out of Control Area"? It is across the canyon from dark shadows.

 

ps: I have a growler to fill up and we should get a pub club together after all the santa craziness is done. I am in PDX until the 10th.

 

Sorry Bryan but I think your cam had been bootied. Don't remember it. Didn't get to the out of control area or even get on Dark Shadows, which is a great climb.

 

Plan a pub club, and come by if you're around, wife is doing the New Years day thing this year too.

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Right on Bill and UJ :tup:

 

With all this rain, some fun in the sun would be really nice right now. Thanks for the momentary escape enjoying the pics! :cool:

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