Your Best Climbing Work-outs....

[Sherri]

Thanks for sharing that info, Mythos! Given that I do my weight training on the same days as my runs and swims, it's good food for thought.

 

Kitergal, if you can get out for some cardio(as opposed to treadmill/stairmaster), consider trail running. It gives you the cardio benefit in a great outdoor environment, and it engages your core muscles in a way that the cardio machines seem to neglect.

 

And a for what Dmuja said about muscles, too. I don't know a single thing about what it takes to train for something like Kili or AC, but as for worrying that "bulk" slow you down in your rock climbing endeavors...pfft.

 

Train hard, girl, and take those muscles to the crags! You won't be sorry you have 'em! Good luck!

 

 

Edited December 5, 2007 by Sherri

[dmuja]

One interesting physiology tidbit i learned the other day in my exercise physiology class is that if you are trying to become stronger by lifting weights, but also trying to get in good cardiovascular shape, you should not do cardio and weight lifting on the same day. It messes with the way your body responds to the weight lifting and doesn't end up repairing the strength-trained muscles (type IIa and IIx) as strong. Best thing to do is to do cardio one day and then weight train the next. That didn't seem to mess up the muscle repairing as much.

 

Thanks Mythosgrl

 

Though this is true and ideal, its still better to do them on the same day then not doing one or the other at all. Best to do strength first then cardio second btw if thats your only option.

 

The only reason I mentioned this is because a lot of "facts" have little or no context behind them and they often get overblown in importance because of this. Kind of like "eating fish". Fish are often somewhat contaminated with man made toxins, but still its better to include fish in your diet than not to - at least for now.

[ken4ord]

alright..guys & gals..it's been awhile, and I can tell it's been while by the enlarged waist-band that I now wear!!

 

So, in my absense..I have ALMOST completed my MBA (yeah!! One more class to go!!!) and also increased my pant size by 2 (not so yeah..).

 

Welcome back and congrats!!!

 

So, I need to get back in shape! I've got big plans for this summer to climb Aconcagua & Kili. I also want to get back into the old rock climbing gig!

 

I can't speak about Aconcagua since I haven't been there yet, but last year I did Kili and was quite disappointed. If traveling up some slog route in a mini-village is your thing then I say go for it, but I thought it was the worst big climbing trip I have ever taken. There was some nice scenery, but I wasn't really able to enjoy it with constant noise in the background of people talking and terrible radio reception being broadcasted. The only way I could recomend it if your goal is the 7&7, since there is no replacement for the highest summit in Africa.

 

I always get ready for slogging by hitting the stair master. Like Ivan, I use aid, by smoking some weed before to deal with the boredom and either listen to music or bring a magazine. Since I don't have a stair master around I am getting ready for a trip in January, by carrying my daughter around on my back.

[billcoe]

Did you read the part about wanting to train for Kili? Or did you just want to use this thread as another opportunity to remind everyone that yes in fact pink has climbed el cap?

 

No need to get offensive John. Pink use to run laps on Beacon all year long. Predated Ivan:-) 6 solo laps = over 5000' if you hit the top. He's just saying this is what he use to do way back when to stay in shape. I think that it may be the best thing ever for both cardio and rock climbing strength at the same time. I've never hit it in the wet cordless though, and the thought of heading out there in this kind of weather, in the dark too, terrifies me. I couldn't do it. I could do it naked on a warm sunny day though!

 

Since she lives in Seattle, she'll have to find her own lil playground locally. I like the workout partner idea. I notice that Ujahn and I will get some ski runs in, then sometimes also hit like Petes, Beacon, the woods or Ozone weather dependant. Course, somethings my legs are cramping from just the runs, and we'll go stand at the base of something and just hang out for a while, too satiated and content too want to get on anything. After work, wife and I will go for walks. I try to convince her that we should hike up the creek (I carry weights in the pack) but she's not into doing that in the dark.

 

But Kitergal is asking what should she do during the week. If you are still in school K-gal, I'd hit their gym after class or find something you love to do like swimming or racketball, otherwise, noticed that both John and Marcus do Crossfit and that shite seems to be doing the trick as there may not be many stronger folks on this site for sure.

 

Might take an exercise class at school. PSU does an alumnus deal, it use to be $45 a year to use their stuff, (it's got to be way more now) maybe your school does the same?

[NTM]

as for the getting back into rock climbing shape, the best workout i've found (if you have a climbing gym near you) is to go and do 3 sets of 1/2hr traverses on the wall with 10 minute rests in between. try to move quickly and shake out often (keep yourself just below the pumped level). this ends up being quite a bit of cardio in addition to honing your climbing technique

[jon]

One interesting physiology tidbit i learned the other day in my exercise physiology class is that if you are trying to become stronger by lifting weights, but also trying to get in good cardiovascular shape, you should not do cardio and weight lifting on the same day. It messes with the way your body responds to the weight lifting and doesn't end up repairing the strength-trained muscles (type IIa and IIx) as strong. Best thing to do is to do cardio one day and then weight train the next. That didn't seem to mess up the muscle repairing as much.

 

Mythogrl, do you have an literature references for this? I believe what you are saying is true on the extreme end of things, but at the intensities most people exercise at I don't believe this would be a problem.

[archenemy]

They have a free fitness test but require a high level before you can enter the group sessions. That means hiring a personal trainer for a while which is $$$$.

 

This isn't necessarily true and varies by facility. The facility I train at http://www.crossfiteastside.com/ does not require any 'tests'. They only require that you start in the 'elements' classes which are for beginners before you jump into the regular classes. No need to spend extra money.

 

It's more than you will pay at a box gym but those of us on this board who do crossfit all swear by it. One of the many attractions/benefits is not dealing with the cardio treadmill/stairmaster routine. I'd rather eat ground up glass than go back to that. The crossfit routines are varied, fun and hard but you never know what you are going to get that day until you show up. It completely eliminates the boredom factor.

Do the folks at Crossfit limit the number of people they are working with at a time? The gym I have been going to has gotten so crowded that going between 4-6 is pointless. And of course, it is the most convenient time to go for me as well as for everyone else in the world.

Also, do the Crossfit folks work around injuries well? Or do you need to be able to be worked no matter what?

Thanks!

[pink]

Did you read the part about wanting to train for Kili? Or did you just want to use this thread as another opportunity to remind everyone that yes in fact pink has climbed el cap?

 

No need to get offensive John. Pink use to run laps on Beacon all year long. Predated Ivan:-) 6 solo laps = over 5000' if you hit the top. He's just saying this is what he use to do way back when to stay in shape. I think that it may be the best thing ever for both cardio and rock climbing strength at the same time. I've never hit it in the wet cordless though, and the thought of heading out there in this kind of weather, in the dark too, terrifies me. I couldn't do it. I could do it naked on a warm sunny day though!

 

Since she lives in Seattle, she'll have to find her own lil playground locally. I like the workout partner idea. I notice that Ujahn and I will get some ski runs in, then sometimes also hit like Petes, Beacon, the woods or Ozone weather dependant. Course, somethings my legs are cramping from just the runs, and we'll go stand at the base of something and just hang out for a while, too satiated and content too want to get on anything. After work, wife and I will go for walks. I try to convince her that we should hike up the creek (I carry weights in the pack) but she's not into doing that in the dark.

 

But Kitergal is asking what should she do during the week. If you are still in school K-gal, I'd hit their gym after class or find something you love to do like swimming or racketball, otherwise, noticed that both John and Marcus do Crossfit and that shite seems to be doing the trick as there may not be many stronger folks on this site for sure.

 

Might take an exercise class at school. PSU does an alumnus deal, it use to be $45 a year to use their stuff, (it's got to be way more now) maybe your school does the same?

 

thanks bill

 

more importantly train for the climb you are going to climb . the tour de france dudes for example . the smart riders train on the course to train. this is what i'm trying say.

 

not bragging (john might feel different) but i could do the south east corner via little wing and uprising in about 11 minute and as far as training it was the full on strength/cardio/and get my head in the game package. sorry if i came across over bearing but i thought the question was your best work out. that's cool i get worked up sometime myself. it's all good we are all in the same boat and enjoy the same activities. isn't that why we are all here?

[Kitergal]

Thanks for all the info guys!! I'll definitely look into the cross fit gig. I noticed the east-side has a lunch class...I may look into that. (Yes I work 40+ hrs a week, and go to school 2 nights a week) Time is very...very limited. Definitely the biggest factor for me.

 

Do you know how many of the $15 drop in days I can do? The monthly fees are CRAZY Expensive!!

 

I actually live down south...so if anyone wants to do stuff on weekends or evenings (even though it's dark out)I'm in. It is very true that if you make plans with someone...it's way harder to forget or work late!! It's an excuse to get out and do something...and that is definitely what I need!!

 

Thanks again for all the tips and tricks and advice!

[hydroman]

Do you know how many of the $15 drop in days I can do? The monthly fees are CRAZY Expensive!!

 

You can do as many drop ins as you like. There is no need or pressure to become a monthly member. If you do more than 2 classes a week though the monthly unlimited becomes cheaper. Don't let the fees drive you away. It seems like a lot but as myself and others have said you can't compare it to a regular gym as it's a far cry from what you might be used to. Many people agree that the monthly fee seems low for what you really get in terms of results and what amounts to personal training at every session. The first class is free but you need to try a few to really see what it's like since it is so varied.

[hydroman]

Do the folks at Crossfit limit the number of people they are working with at a time? The gym I have been going to has gotten so crowded that going between 4-6 is pointless. And of course, it is the most convenient time to go for me as well as for everyone else in the world.

Also, do the Crossfit folks work around injuries well? Or do you need to be able to be worked no matter what?

Thanks!

 

They don't limit the amount of people per class but they also pay attention to how many people show up. For example the Monday 6pm classes started getting large so they just split it into 2 classes (5:30 and 6:30). The folks that run this particular gym don't pay a lot of attention to the bottom line as they really, really care about getting people fit. If classes get large (like Monday evenings) they split them up. They do it because they are passionate about what they do. Particularly since most folks are unlimited monthly members so adding classes only means more work for them, but no more $$. The classes are reasonable for the size of the place. It's nothing like trying to go to the YMCA or 24hr after work.

 

Also, do the Crossfit folks work around injuries well? Or do you need to be able to be worked no matter what?

Thanks!

 

I can't speak for all facilities but I know that eastside is very conscientious about working with peoples injuries. There are multiple people there dealing with various injuries (myself included, plantar faciatis). Some of these injuries are significant (low back problems, recent shoulder surgery, etc.) They are nice enough to specifically modify the workout for that person that day to work around whatever the problem is. That's going above and beyond IMO. I hesitated to join due to injuries but wish I hadn't as they were very good about working around and with the problems. If you are unsure, shoot them an email and voice your concerns.

[archenemy]

Wow, this sounds pretty good. I've seen a crossfit garage thing between Ballard and Freemont. Anyone been to that one?

[builder206]

http://www.crossfitseattle.com/

 

yeah, it's the gym I go ot

 

been doing it 18 months, huge improvements in strength, durability, ROM

 

run by an ex-SEAL, cool guy

[builder206]

The monthly fees are high, that is true. I have been to the big-box gyms as well as CF and from that experience I judge that you get what you pay for. I am happy to pay the CF fees given the level of knowledge, commitment, and client loyalty I get from the coaches at CF Seattle. They have know-how and experience that dwarfs the competence of trainers at places like Gold's or 24 Hr. Fitness.

 

CF, at least CF Seattle, is more like high-level athletic training than the so-called fitness training you get at the globo gyms. Think more along the lines of NCAA or NFL strength and conditioning programs---general physical preparedness they call it---than aerobics & toning. By design and intent it works on the general conditioning requirements any sport assumes you have going in. So a combination of CF plus your sport is the model CF excels at.

[hydroman]

I've been generally plugging Crossfit on most fitness threads becuase I believe in what I have seen from myself and others. That being said the 'flavor' of the various facilities is totally set by the people who own and run it. You'll learn similar stuff, but no two places are alike. Not much of a point other than you might really like one Crossfit gym and really dislike another. I'm not dissing any other facility as I've never been to another personally, but just something to be aware of. Hopefully they are all as positive and beneficial as the one I go to.

[builder206]

hydroman has a good point. I have worked out at CF Vancouver (B.C.). Very different place than CF Seattle. Also, because CF Seattle's coach Dave Werner is sort of a leader among CF coaches, many other CF coaches have visited our gym and helped run workouts. There is a huge range of styles and know-how out there.

 

Did any of you go to Feathered Friend's Rep Night a few weeks ago? The guy with the most pullups, Jason (22 pullups) and the #2 guy (I think his count was 15) are both regulars at other CF gyms.

 

CF excels in producing athletes who can produce enormous volumes of work. A dedicated CFer who has been doing the workouts for several months or more can crank out work at a hig level for VERY long periods of time. Kicking steps, swinging a tool, cranking up a chimney, prusiking or jumaring---a CF-habituated climber will just blow away anyone else.

[mythosgrl]

jon- Not sure which studies my prof was referring to- and i don't have time right now to hop on medline and look through all of them. This research is still pretty new, but i know at least a few studies have shown the transition from type IIA to type I when endurance and strength training is incorporated into weekly work out routines. This transition is lessened when strength training is done on separate days than endurance training. Some fiber transition does still occur, though.

 

Here is one study:

 

"We conclude that the interference of knee extensor strength development in Strength/Endurance training group versus Strength trained group was related to greater fast-to-slow fibre-type transitions and attenuated hypertrophy of type I fibres." In this study strength and endurance training was done on alternate days and the transition still happened.

 

 

 

Eur J Appl Physiol. 2004 Aug;92(4-5):376-84. Epub 2004 Jul 6

 

[Kitergal]

And I actually have to back Mythosgrl up. I've heard this quite a bit, most recently in Lance Armstrongs 'food for fitness' book by Chris Carmichel. Heck, body for life preaches the same mantra.

[ivan]

another thing i remembered - in the months leading up to denali every 2 weeks or so i'd climb hood via the dog-route at night - get off work, get a phatty-dinner while driving up to t-line, take a quick nap in the parking lot, then do the slog, get back down, take another power-nap, then drive to work. pink's right, getting motivated to get after it in inclement conditions/darkness is a big part of the training thang. a few months out i'd recommend doing 2 a day workouts too, 'fore work and after.

 

don't know how poor you are - i couldn't afford then or now much in the way of big gym or special class fees - running n' hiking n' climbing are pretty damn good training for running n' hiking n' climbing though...

[matt_warfield]

Kicking steps, swinging a tool, cranking up a chimney, prusiking or jumaring---a CF-habituated climber will just blow away anyone else.

 

I would be interested if enduro cragging folks like Caldwell, Potter, or Croft or alpine folks like Colin, the late Alex Lowe, Steve House, or Chad Lowe trained like this. I think one has to distinguish endurance things from gym activity. For endurance, doing is training.

 

And at Gym Jones, the following pullup totals are noted:

 

Mark Twight 40

Steve House 52

 

Nonetheless, I like the CF profile and might check it out sometime.

[builder206]

Twight took the CF model and calls it his own under the Gym Jones guise.

[matt_warfield]

Twight took the CF model and calls it his own under the Gym Jones guise.

 

And of course added a dash of snobbery. And some celebrity members of high caliber.

[eric8]

First off the number of pullups you can do does not directly relate to climbing ability. Second 22 pullups is not something you need to do crossfit in order to obtain. I can actually do more pullups when i'm doing more ice specific work outs then when i'm doing crossfit.

 

Steve House did thousands of hours of cardio to train for Nanga Parbat because as he says up there that is always the limiting factor. The only reason he is on the gymjones website is because he is Twights friend and believes in the gymjones philosophy. But you would be mistaken if you think that crossfit like workouts are the basis of his condition program. Colin also doesn't do crossfit he mostly just climbs a lot but he can speak for himself. Will Gadd is the only professional climber who I can think of that does crossfit when he is not doing mixed specific training.

 

In general i think lot of folks are way into crossfit who don't really climb that hard...I'm not saying its not possible and it certainly is a good way to get in shape but most folks i know who climb hard don't bother with it.

[eric8]

Oh, I guess Vince Anderson recommends crossfit on skywardmountaineering.com and Scott Semple has been known to do a crossfit work out or two. My point that if your just trying to get a generally level of fitness up you just need to start working out. Ivans method of running an hour a day will definetly do it, so will crossfit. Pick your poison, but don't forget climbing specific training.

[RuMR]

Eric8

 

the best training for climbing hard on rock is to climb hard on rock...seriously, all of these training "programs" don't hold a candle compared to just going climbing...