jrwclimbs Posted November 24, 2002 Share Posted November 24, 2002 Trying to whittle down the choices out there and it seems that both the Patagonia Das Parka and the GoLite Six-Month Night are the way to go. (Any others recommended that I'm missin'?) BUT...looking for some beta on ACTUAL use in cold, high places and technical situations. Warmth, durability, packability, pocket sizing/access, cinching, hood happiness, helmet happiness, range of motion, access to harness, hot water bottle pocket use, etc. etc. etc. Thanks! Also, anyone ever use the golite 1/2 vbl vest? jr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted November 25, 2002 Share Posted November 25, 2002 you might check out the wild things belay parka, I think Pro Mountain Sports has them. It won the "guides choice" award, whatever that means. also the Integral Designs Dolomiti jacket is lighter, cheaper and probably every bit as good as any of the above. I don't know who has those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainier_Wolfscastle Posted November 26, 2002 Share Posted November 26, 2002 [ 11-25-2002, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: Rainier Wolfscastle ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainier_Wolfscastle Posted November 26, 2002 Share Posted November 26, 2002 I've used the Wild things belay jacket for ice climbing and liked it alot. It is all insulation with no useless features/weight. It packs down alot smaller than my old Lowe Alpine belay jacket (about the size of a sleeping bag stuff sack on my harness). The MEC belay jacket is also pretty good and has a dryloft shell for extra water resistance, but as mentioned before, is no longer made. Can't go wrong with the Patagonia model. I would have bought one of those if I had the extra $. I think Marmot also makes one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted November 26, 2002 Share Posted November 26, 2002 I have a Das. Really like it. Nice big hood to go over a helmet, sized large to fit over all your climbing clothes. I really like the mesh glove drying pockets on the inside for belays. Used it in New England and BC last winter and wasn't cold. On the downside it's pretty big, if you're carrying it on multi-pitch ice routes then get a compression sack to hang off the back of your harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 26, 2002 Share Posted November 26, 2002 MEC Belay Overparka too bad they stopped maing them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwills Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 wild things belay parka - only way to go. check their website, they are having a special on last year's model. the jacket has a great cut (much better than the marmot belay parka) and an epic shell. i'd also try to stick with primaloft as it is more compressible than polarguard (not sure how it compares to the new polarguard 3d though). anyways, check out the wild things belay parka and their bouldering pants...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishstick Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 What are you using the parka for? I've tested jackets with 5, 6 and 8oz PL1. For very cold multi-day conditions where the parka is being used around camp or for long belays, I'd rather be wearing 8oz, but bulk is a big issue. For most alpine climbing situations, 6oz would be more practical. 5oz works well for day trips or when you chose to just wear the insulated parka all day long. 5oz is my favorite as a waterfall belay jacket. Although I firmly believe that synthetic is the answer for climbing, not even the 8oz PL1 is anywhere near as warm as a good baffled down jacket. The latter would be practical for prolonged ski trips in drycold, or perhaps tourist routes on big peaks up north. GB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 ditto on the ID Dolomiti ..... you can mail order them direct from ID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Just bought a Golite 6-Month Night. It is VERY puffy, and the fit is way better than any of the others that I've tried, like the Wild Things or Patagucci Puff (?). For $100, it is probably a good deal. Once I've used it I'll write more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 According to the folks at Patagucci here in Portland, an entire shipping container of DAS parkas was stolen from the docks when they arrived in the US. Evidently, someone just drove up to the container and hooked it up to a semi, then drove away. So, look for some good deals on ebay, but expect the normal stores to have a hard time getting them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 (edited) I was just surfing the sale at www.wildthingsgear.com and noticed the Denali jacket is on sale for $200.00, just $20.00 more than the Belay jacket. Anywho, it's 8oz heavier, and it's got a "real" shell, but you might check it out if you're looking for a do everything type belay parka. That sucker looks substantial! Personally, I have several insulating layers for different weather & conditions that I probably paid a total of $200 for. Big old Eddie Bauer down parka. Been in -30f weather standing around and warm. However, the shell is 60/40 cotton/nylon so I have to be careful with that potentially big problem in this climate especially. Oh yeah, it weighs in at about 3.5 lbs! LL Bean primaloft hooded jacket. I think it's got about 4-oz of fill based on comparing it with other jackets. It's my primary winter climbing jacket, but hood won't fit over my helmet.. and the DWR seems to be toast already (1 season). Sierra Designs lite primaloft jacket without hood. nice lightweight layer to stow in the pack if I (or partner) end up underdresssed for conditions. fits under either of the above coats or just a shell. This combo (lite prima and shell) actually is great down to about 20 f and is more versitle than just the LL which seems to be good down to about the same temp. With Temps below that, the LL would get layered over the SD which I haven't gotten to test out, but, I imagine it's good to about 0f. If it's colder than that, the big ole' down parka comes out. That being said, I'd trade the LL Bean and Eddie Bauer for any of the Wild things parkas (anyone?)as the Denali and Belay are designed for climbers and have a better shell in case you get wet, and you will get wet especially in winter around here. Your friend Bronco aka: the KING of coats, at least according to my wife. Edited December 3, 2002 by Bronco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 I have the Men's Puff Jacket from Patagucci and it is great jacket even in the regular –20° on NE Mount Washington and the normal 50 MPH wind there it kept me warm on top of the other garment I was wearing I highly recommend it I got mine for $80 on sale up on lake placid But if u to pay full price go with the belay jacket from Wild things its worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 (edited) I've been trying to figure this out too - the ones I've tried on are the Cloudveil Enclosure Mountain Parka, the Marmot one, the Wild Things Belay Jacket and the Arcteryx Fission-whichever-is-thicker. I liked the Arcteryx best, it's awesome but it costs a fortune, and the Cloudveil second best. The Wild Things Belay Jacket is cool except the fit wasn't great for me. I have no use for that Marmot thing, the cut is odd and the smallest size is good for a midsize Sasquatch. Wish MEC hadn't stopped making their Belay Parka :wazzup: Edited December 4, 2002 by fleblebleb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 OK where did the :wazzup: gremlin go? :wazzup: :wazzup: :wazzup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EV Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 Does anyone have any experience or seen any comparisons of the Patagonia DAS belay jacket the Wild Things Belay Jacket as to which one is warmer. I know it's all relative, but just curious. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 The DAS is a little heavier, so you could assume it is probably warmer. Although an old carpenter once told me "you know what happens when you assume, you make an ASS out of U & ME" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobBob Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 I think I'm gonna try one of the Golite six-month night parkas...they are in the bargain basement now at $109. I bought an overshirt from golite for running. When I got it, I thought, what a piece of shit for $40...there's nothing to it and it's gonna rip. Turns out it's warm, extr.light, and I love it (the orange faded a little after a couple of washings though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 The Golite packs also look interesting, especially the Gust. If they made an Epic-shelled Six Month Night it would be the best jacket around. Lets wait, maybe they will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 Be sure you try on the Six Month Night Parka before you buy. I had my mind set on it and then I wore it. It is stiff and bulky. The Marmot was cut like a circus tent. The DAS was nice but out of all of the belay parkas I tried on the Wild Things had the best fit and cleanest lines and was the most compressible. I bought it and have not regretted the decision. Can't vouch for the warmth, cause I have not had it out in real cold weather yet. The main difference is the Wild Things is made of Primaloft while the others are Polarguard. The DAS also has less insulation in the sleeves than the body. Just from trying on all of the jackets, I would guess the Wild Things is warmer than the DAS. The Six Month for sure would be the warmest, but I would hate to pack it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobBob Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 Hey, thanks for the advice. I don't want it if it isn't pliable and compactible. Hell, the cheapie in me says get one of those $68 Lands End parkas, but I don't want to get wet in down on that one-in-a-million-chance epic I might find myself in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 IMHO the Puff Jacket is the one I will recommend as far as price Vs warmth Vs compress ability and fit for the lower 48 it is the bomb and in 1.5lb it is very light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 I dunno. The primaloft garments seem to have almost no loft. Wouldn't that translate to less warmth? As for Polarguard being too bulky, my Golite 6MN is about as bulky as two fleeces, but way warmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobBob Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 how many gold pcs for the Puff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 Isn't it like 150? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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