an old guy and the rock warriors way

[markwebster]

I'm 53, and have been wondering lately if my best days of climbing are behind me. I seem to have some really bad habits of sewing stuff up, and living by the mantra of: "the leader must not fall".

I recently began reading "the rock warriors way" by Arno Ilgner and it seems to be having a positive impact on my climbing. Here is a short tale about climbing yesterday with my buddy Nick at Tieton.

Nick only had one day available, so we drove down Friday night over Chinook pass, which was entirely bare of snow. Windy Point campground still does not have water, but we were in and out so fast it didn't matter.

 

We started on the easy 5.4 routes just around the corner from Cutting Edge. Nick led the one to the right of the route with the ledge, and I led Good Timer 5.4 three pillars to the left. It has a steep section just below a yellow roof that is surprisingly hard for a 5.4. This time I stayed in good control and didn't get stuck under the roof. I stayed to the left, carefully planning my protection and body movements so I was always within reach of a bomber jam.

 

Next, Nick led Level Head-5.6 in the pillar just to the left. It has a cool layback on the left side and he did great, staying in good control. Nick (24) is a 5.11b bolt climber, but new to trad. His hex placements are getting very good, though he is still short slinging a few friends/cams, which usually go bad. I was feeling confident after following that and jumped on Mush Maker-5.7, a climb that spanked me when I last climbed it eight weeks ago.

 

After my recent spanking on Godzilla (5.9 index), I was fully prepared for more abuse on Mush Maker, though there have been indications I'm improving. On Wednesday at the gym, I took two long test leader falls in a row before I began leading, and the confidence those falls inspired was amazing. Climbing up the first 50 feet of Mush Maker, I tried to remember all the tips I've been learning in my new book: "The Rock Warriors Way".

 

When I came to a long section of steep hand jam climbing, I placed a good hex, and just kept going. I saw some nice placements as I climbed, but remembered how Arno says extra gear can be a "power sink", and simply kept climbing. Finally the jams thinned out a bit and I realized I was looking at a 25 footer if I came off. Right in the middle of a hard move, 12 feet above your last piece is not the best place to be testing out new attitudes toward climbing, but I forced myself to stay calm and poised and carefully placed Nicks blue camalot.

 

When I got to the crux, I was surprised to find myself flowing smoothly through the hand jam sequence. I'd reach up, sink a locker hand jam, step high for a sweet toe jam and stand up, sinking the next hand jam as soon as I could reach it. There was a rhythm to my movements, and I felt like I was 'in the groove'. I got just a little bit tentative when the crack leaned back to vertical, as I was beginning to loose power. Still, I forced myself not to overgrip and placed two quick friends about four feet apart, then went for the crux. The jams never stop being sinker, and as long as you don't overgrip, the sequence is quite do-able.

 

I pulled over the top in a great mood and let out a whoop of delight and my standard: "Yeah, baby!" All the hard work this season of carefully building my skills is finally paying off. We were both basking in the afterglow of a great day of climbing as we started the three hour drive home.

 

I think this Arno guy is onto something.

[bstach]

I placed a good hex

 

Hexes rock.

[Sherri]

Thanks for sharing that, Mark. Great job working through those challenges. Sounds like getting into that "sweet spot" with your rhythm on the jambs was worth all the effort.

 

I liked that book, too. Even though it's been a year since I first read it, I find that its lessons still pop to mind from time to time, helping me through a sketchy lead or quieting a noisy ego debate in my head.

 

BTW, I regularly climb with a guy who is about your age--he's one of the most talented, energetic and motivated climbers I know. It's quite an inspiration...and kinda makes me look forward to being "old", especially if I'll be climbing even half as well as him by then.

 

 

[catbirdseat]

The thing I remember about Mush Maker is that there are certain places where pro just drops in like a dream and others where it's fussy. When you get a good placement you can rely on it and focus just on the climbing. About 10 feet above the top I remember starting to fuss with a placement and then thinking, "these jams are bomber, why are you wasting your energy. Just go for it!" So I did, and it was fine. So what if I fell? It would have been a big one, but I was way off the ground, with many pieces below me.

[Jens]

Inspiring post Mark!

 

Keep at it!

[sk]

Mark,

 

thank you for sharing your story. I have been meaning to read the rock warriors way for ages and it looks like i need to make that more of a priority. I am a nervous leader. my head is just not in the game and i need to get it in the game if i am going to keep climbing.

 

thank you for the inspiration!!!

[Rad]

Great post. I had a similar experience in Tuolumne meadows leading Phobos (twin hand cracks on a vertical wall).

 

I've found inspiration in Goddard/Neumann's Performance Rock Climbing. About two thirds of the book is on mental aspects. I used to think getting better was about getting stronger, but even that comes down to mental factors (being disciplined to train, to develop and execute a good training plan, to best utilize the strength one does have etc etc.

 

You've inspired me to read Ilgner's book. Thanks.

 

[billcoe]

Nice read, you've inspired me to not get old.

 

Thank you.

[Trent]

Mark: I have not read “The Rock Warrior’s Way”, but regularly climb with a 67 year old. He is still putting up new rock routes in the low tens, and some of his alpine leads have haired me out on second. In other words, I don’t think that age will keep you from improving your climbing. Good headspace and the physical ability to apply it can be used well into your golden years. Just look at Fred.

[lizard_brain]

I never even think about this stuff. I did my first ice climb with a guy that was 62, and the first time I summited Adams was with a guy that was 82. Like Trent said - look at Fred. I think it's attitude as much as physical ability. I ran my first marathon at age 47. There were about 350 participants, and 5 of them were in the 'over 70' age catergory. 4 of those 5 'over 70' guys beat me, one of them by over an hour. Those are my role models.

[TREETOAD]

good to hear from other old farts, I only started climbing at 48. It keeps me keen to stay in shape etc. Also because I only started five years ago I don't have a peak of ability to decline from.