olyclimber Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Trip: Prusik Peak - South Face S-B route/West Face Adventure Climbing Date: 7/27/2007 Trip Report: This past weekend I went up into the Enchantments with three others, included Sir Hansel teh Great. Jeff and I went cragging on Prusik a couple of times. First we climbed the das toof...errr...Stanley-Burgner south face route. This is truly a super classic alpine climb, every pitch was very fun, and the line is so cool. Failing Upwards The next day we decided to go climb the West Face, a route put up by Boving and some other guy that tops out just after the first horn on the West Ridge. For beta we had a crumpled up photocopy of the route drawn (roughly) on a photo, and Beckey's brief description. We started up the 5.9 lie-back pitch, but quickly got off route by going up left to a roof/cave and it was time for some adventure climbing. From there we climbed over the roof to a fun left leaning hand -to- off width crack and ended up right below the yellow spot on the West Face. The tiny crack above looked like it may have been aided, but we decided to rap from a newer looking nut someone who had come up this way before us had left. We rapped down and pendulumed slightly to the left, down to another anchor someone had left (a small single skinny mammut sling on a horn with a leaver biner). From there we climbed a fun crack with hard roof moves (OK, I frenched it), and over to the two trees prominent in most pictures of the West Face. At this point we weren't sure which way to climb, but I remembered that I had taken a few pictures with my digital camera, so we looked at those pics on the LCD and low and behold we need to go up (straight up). Jeff went up and while belaying I discovered the rope had tangled on the tree and Jeff yelled down for more rope ("MORE #$^(%*$#(& ROPE NOW WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING!!!" to be precise). Following him up I discovered the cause of the excitement was some pretty tough, perhaps "R" rated climbing. Another easy, short pitch and we were on the West Ridge, where we down climbed the West Ridge route. That next to last pitch left me wondering if Jeff might take the crown and title away from THE BIG BALLER. I was glad he climbed it though, with a single rope our descent options were pretty much zero. Jeff freed the entire climb clean. This is how we rolled: Here is a picture of Jeff going off route on the second pitch of the West Ridge: Love, Olyclimber Some dudes on the West Ridge crux (Friday, I think) Goat-see: Gear Notes: For S-B South Face: Standard recommended rack For West Ridge Adventure Climbing: Up to #4 camalot would have been nice. Jeff made it work with largest being #2 and running it out. Approach Notes: In/out snow lake. Many Goat-sees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Hey man, don't bogart that Hansel. I want a hit off your ropegun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 nice report portersteak, cool adventure. re: TBB, that's ok, never 'deserved' it anyway, you can call me "rolf". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share Posted July 31, 2007 I'm sure Jeff would agree though that the name is yours. You might as well get a tattoo, you're stamped for life. actually, i can't remember who the big baller is. could somebody help me out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 (edited) those pics are outstanding. looks like kick-arse climbing. Edited August 1, 2007 by lunger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZimZam Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Nice one Oly. Great pic too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 Pikturs added. Love, Olyclimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Roslyn Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Dip Set! Killah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Now picking jaw up off floor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Hell yeah, nice looking climbing. I miss granite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Dammit! Gwanite! I love you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Great photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Why are those goats on the run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 3, 2007 Author Share Posted August 3, 2007 my lil buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 Uhh. What's up Salty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 Hey, how did you get permits? Same day lottery at the USFS? Advanced? Nice climbing and photos, BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 4, 2007 Author Share Posted August 4, 2007 I was going to try the lottery, but i got sick right before that happened. I got lucky and a co-worker got some from the lottery and ended up he couldn't use them so he gave them to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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