Ken Nichols convicted and fined for bolt chopping

[billcoe]

From Rock and Ice, breakiing news:

(BTW, I in no way expect Raindawg and Infinite Bliss to be drug into this conversation..................................................NOT......)

Link

 

"chopping the chopper

Online News Article

By: Jeff Squire, Western Mass Climbers Coalition

 

On July 16, 2007, Ken Nichols, a veteran rock climber and infamous bolt chopper from Connecticut, pled guilty to charges of violating a No Trespass Order and received a Continuation Without a Finding on willful destruction of property under $250 in Orange District Court, Orange, Massachusetts. The plea was the result of charges filed against Mr. Nichols for chopping bolts at Farley Ledge on April 27, 2007; an incident that had an eyewitness account. The charges and subsequent plea agreement were the result of a collaborative effort by the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition, landowners and the Town of Erving police department.

 

Originally, six Trespass Notices had been delivered to Mr. Nichols in June of 2005 prohibiting him from entering both Farley Ledge and Mormon Hollow properties, two popular crags in western Massachusetts managed in part by the WMCC. The initial charges against Mr. Nichols for the chopping incident at Farley Ledge included the trespass violation and a felony charge for destruction of personnel property valued at over $250.

 

Mr. Nichols plea agreement was the result of negotiations by members of the WMCC and Mr. Nichols attorney as well as the Northwestern DA Office. Conditions of his plea agreement included two years probation, a $250 fine, prohibition of him entering five western Massachusetts crags and the prohibition of him chopping or damaging any bolts or hangers on any climbing route.

 

This decision marks the end of a 3-year concerted effort by the WMCC to protect area crags from being repeatedly damaged. In addition, it demonstrates the effectiveness of a collaborative working group aiming to protect valuable climbing resources and makes a significant lawful statement about the actions and conduct of Mr. Nichols over the past 15-20 years."

 

 

[kevbone]

Good to see the vandals getting the chop.

[ericb]

Good to see the vandals getting the chop.

 

$250 bucks.....that's stiff

[kevbone]

Good to see the vandals getting the chop.

 

$250 bucks.....that's stiff

 

Yeah....but he has record now. He is in the public eye for vandalizing art work.

[archenemy]

Mormon Hollows?

 

Creepy.

[billcoe]

If you feel bad for the fella we can send him a CC.com t-shirt.

[kevbone]

If you feel bad for the fella we can send him a CC.com t-shirt.

 

 

Yeah...but what would it say?

 

 

cc.com

 

See IB thread! eh....threads!

[rob]

...prohibition of him entering five western Massachusetts crags and the prohibition of him chopping or damaging any bolts or hangers on any climbing route.

 

WTF? For how long? lame

[kevbone]

...prohibition of him entering five western Massachusetts crags and the prohibition of him chopping or damaging any bolts or hangers on any climbing route.

 

 

For how long?

 

Hopefully forever. He has done enough damage.

[Raindawg]

 

Yeah....but he has record now. He is in the public eye for vandalizing art work.

 

a) he's not in the "public eye". It's reported in Rock & Ice Magazine and the general public probably doesn't know, nor care about the issue and its complexities.

 

b) vandalism? one could argue that the original vandalism was perpetrated by the bolters and Mr. Nichols is erasing the ugly graffiti.

 

c) art? How conceited.

 

Anyone know where we can send Mr. Nichols a few bucks? He probably had a few legal fees from being railroaded by the local "Climbers Coalition". (Did they have their own lawyers as members of that group?)

 

And, if you think the bolting controversy is just a fabrication of Dwayner, pope and a few others, check out the little link at Rock & Ice:

 

North American Bolt Wars

 

Read the whole thing, and the examples, but here's a few quotes for starters:

 

Among climbers, there’s nothing like placing ... or chopping ... or even just talking about chopping ... a bolt (never mind a whole route) to stir up a real sh*tstorm...By now, nearly every crag in every corner of the country has felt at least a little reverb from the bolting debate: a favorite line chopped, a gear-protected route bolted, a few extra “chicken” bolts added to ease a historic runout. And the wars are far from over...

After decades of dispute, a community-wide consensus on the “rules” of the climbing game isn’t any nearer—the closest peace treaty seems an agreement to disagree."

 

 

[kevbone]

 

a) he's not in the "public eye". It's reported in Rock & Ice Magazine and the general public probably doesn't know

 

When I say “public eye” I mean he has a public record of his activities. Public….as in anyone has access this information. General public…..what does that mean? You mean folks who watch Fox News? Or do you mean the climbing community? If it’s the latter….I would say you and I know about it….and Bill posted this on a climbers web site……Rock & Ice is a climbers web site. Hmmmmm…..maybe more people are interested than you lead us to believe…..and maybe not…..

 

 

b) vandalism? one could argue that the original vandalism was perpetrated by the bolters and Mr. Nichols is erasing the ugly graffiti.

 

The vandalism comes when one comes and destroys others work. And yes one could argue your above point……but IMO….that is very weak argument.

 

 

c) art? How conceited.

 

It is not conceited at all…..I think (and you have heard this from me before) that chopping bolts is conceited. My way or no way style of thinking is all about ego.

I see routes, bolted or all gear, as art work. Someone took time to clean, scrub, maybe put an anchor in, trundle, top rope, clean some more, bolt if necessary, then lead and name…..art work bro……

sickie

[pope]

 

a) he's not in the "public eye". It's reported in Rock & Ice Magazine and the general public probably doesn't know

 

When I say “public eye” I mean he has a public record of his activities. Public….as in anyone has access this information. General public…..what does that mean? You mean folks who watch Fox News? Or do you mean the climbing community? If it’s the latter….I would say you and I know about it….and Bill posted this on a climbers web site……Rock & Ice is a climbers web site. Hmmmmm…..maybe more people are interested than you lead us to believe…..and maybe not…..

 

 

b) vandalism? one could argue that the original vandalism was perpetrated by the bolters and Mr. Nichols is erasing the ugly graffiti.

 

The vandalism comes when one comes and destroys others work. And yes one could argue your above point……but IMO….that is very weak argument.

 

 

c) art? How conceited.

 

It is not conceited at all…..I think (and you have heard this from me before) that chopping bolts is conceited. My way or no way style of thinking is all about ego.

I see routes, bolted or all gear, as art work. Someone took time to clean, scrub, maybe put an anchor in, trundle, top rope, clean some more, bolt if necessary, then lead and name…..art work bro……

sickie

 

A trail of bolts might be called crude engineering, but it ain't art. Occasionally, a natural weakness in a vertical wall may provide an adventure to a team that is willing accept an uncertain result by climbing UP into the unknown, perhaps placing an occasional bolt where their lives depend on it. Some incredibly challenging and bold climbs were established this way.

 

But let's stop with the nonsense already. Most bolt climbs today represent a cowardly approach to rock climbing, where nearly all risk and uncertainty are removed from the equation. The results are often pathetic, imposing on the landscape grids of alien hardware that eliminate adventue for the mobs of "climbers" who probably wouldn't have anything to do with the sport if they couldn't chase bolts and deceive themselves into thinking they're really climbing 5.12.

 

You call this art? I call it convenience. I call it a rejection of retraint and aesthetics in the pursuit of something that is closer to beach volleyball than rock climbing the way I learned it.

[Rad]

I climbed in MA and CT for a few years. Chopping bolts was only one mode of destructive protest by Nichols. I will be surprised if he stays clean during his probation.

[dmuja]

What bullshit. Fucking wanky, sniveling, government suck-ups. I want to see the WCC try pulling this. Then you will really see a bolt war and a lot of "routes" disappear.

[dmuja]

Bolt heads arnt the only ones who can "organize"

[dmuja]

This is what happens when you get a bunch of retard so called climbers organizing into coalitions and allowed to "manage" (WTF!) shit. Next they will be cooperating on undercover 420 busts to gain more favor and keep their "access". What really pisses me off is that these pussies went to the man to get their way. "Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition" What a bunch of punks.

 

ok, bye

[olyclimber]

I suppose you have a better idea for coming together to protect climbers rights/access dmuja? Or are we supposed to grab our ankles and remain unorganized? I can only assume your posts are a troll, they are so asinine.

 

If you're making assumptions based on a few posts here, maybe there was more to that story.

[dmuja]

Nothing wrong with organizing - if you remember your roots. If you don't, soon you sell out and become just another politician (see WMCC for example of how that comes about). If it comes down to the government blindly protecting bolted climbs, that just crosses a BIG line as far as Im concerned. Personally, if its going to come down to this, I'll revert to my extremist environmentalist roots etc... fill in the blank.. If this kind of dispute can't be resolved amoungst climbers, without government intervention, in Washington State, I'll bet there are a lot of folks who would chose to cut off ALL access to certain areas that are now considered climbing faves. If it comes down to escalating the stakes via bullshit tactics like this, so be it.

[olyclimber]

Well, maybe you could actually get involved rather than throwing stones from afar. You could even keep people focused on their roots, if that is your gig.

 

There is actually quite a history behind Nichols. I don't claim to know everything about that story, but I do know that there was going to be nothing "resolved amongst climbers" (they tried). How do you come to a resolution when there is no middle ground, and people (Nichols in particular) aren't willing to compromise? So how would YOU deal with that situation? I'll be waiting here for you to propose your great solution to the problem. In the end they engaged the law after exhausting the other options they saw.

 

Apart for that situation, remember that any group or "coalition" are only as good as the people that are its members. If you in fact actually care about climbing and what your local coalition is doing(which are in fact your peers, if you call yourself a climber), then get involved and influence from within. Its much more effective that throwing stones from afar.

 

 

 

[dmuja]

They (you) would not like me as a member, believe me! Why? mostly because I have no interest in protecting access to bolted climbing ares. Since that is the main purpose (declared or not) of the WCC I simply would not fit in.

 

BTW Porter, neither you (nor I) have a "right" to drill bolts into rock and climb on it. You may have a defacto "right" to access such areas, but vandalizing momma nature will always be a crime in my view.

 

Write that into your mission statement and I'll join

Edited July 19, 2007 by dmuja

[catbirdseat]

Mr. Nichols committed his acts on private property. This property was being managed in accordance with agreements between the owners and an organization of climbers. Any conduct outside of that agreement is in violation. Bolt chopping on those particular properties is considered vandalism under the agreement.

 

The property owner has a right to mangage his property in any lawful way he sees fit. He has a right to form agreements with climbers organizations. An individual who disagrees does NOT have the right to do as he pleases. That is called anarchy.

Edited July 19, 2007 by catbirdseat

[olyclimber]

Have you ever clipped a bolt (not just in a climb, but at a set of anchors)? If you have, you're a hypocrite based on what you say above.

 

Are we not vandalizing "momma nature" just by building a road somewhere or even starting up the car? Clearly humans should leave the planet immediately, they're not NATURAL! Sure, in wilderness areas, power bolting is illegal, and there are rules you need to follow...but you're really coming off as lunatic fringe.

 

At any rate, while your beliefs are perhaps (I can't speak for these other people and what they believe) shared by a few others here on the site, they are in the clear minority. Unfortunately for you, your tactics of not organizing and just chopping routes are just going to back fire on you, if your goal is to prevent the "defilement" of areas such as Exit 32. The bolt will just be put back up, and you'll just cause more scarring of momma nature's rocks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[olyclimber]

Since that is the main purpose (declared or not) of the WCC I simply would not fit in.

 

 

you are wrong. there may be people in the organization that are sport climbers and are particularly interested in protecting sport climbing...but that is actually not it. if you're assuming this based on who the WCC board is, then you must be a mind reader, and a poor one at that.

 

 

and how easily you over look the things the WCC has done for climbers as an organization. if you look around at any other interest group, in order to have any representation in our chosen form of government, then you have to organize.

 

the cool thing about anarchy is that you have no responsibility and you can just spend all your time tossing stones. good luck with that.

[Off_White]

For a born again wannabe dwayner-lite sycophant, you sure know how to be a sport climber.

 

dmuja said: My "personal" set up..

 

dog bones (bolt climbs only) biners facing same dir..

 

gear biners (prefer dmm specters, helium, or bd keylocks) clipped on a sling, biner gates facing me..

 

runners for trad, singles, made of that thin skinny shit "dyneema" with a lone helium wire gate - I don't get why one needs to carry 2 biners on all yr runners if you already have one on your pro, maybe for stoppers tho b'cause you probly have them bunched up on one "carry" biner..

 

btw, the reason for the stiff side on the dogbones is so you can make a difficult long clip by "slapping" the q'draw into the hanger via grabbing the middle of the draw instead of the biner. Its easier to "slap" away from your body than to slap into yr body from the outside. Anyway, the siff side is not for the rope, its for the bolt hanger..

 

and it's so cute when you act all tough 'n shit

 

Personally, if its going to come down to this, I'll revert to my extremist environmentalist roots etc... fill in the blank.. If this kind of dispute can't be resolved amoungst climbers, without government intervention, in Washington State, I'll bet there are a lot of folks who would chose to cut off ALL access to certain areas that are now considered climbing faves. If it comes down to escalating the stakes via bullshit tactics like this, so be it.

 

What a tool.

 

Poor Saint Ken, martyred on the holy cross for proclaiming, "Fuck you, I am the boss of you."

[JosephH]

Well, Ken is a bit of a paradox no doubt. I climbed with him a bit during the two years

I lived in NH and in fact made off with his young protege Marco Fedrizzi when I left.

And let's be clear about a few things - like Ken was fairly eccentric before

the bolt wars started - but he was also a incredibly talented climber, put up a

string of endless badass routes, and prolifically chronicled CT climbing AAC-published

guide for CT.

 

He went way out of his way to put out the word far and wide that bolting wasn't

welcome in CT and he wasn't alone in that sentiment by a long shot. The inital

war was ignited when Ken was repeatedly provoked by folks coming in from out

of state and bolting. Now I'm not going to defend his behavior in response other

than to say that folks who knew Ken should have known better than to prod him

in such a deliberate manner. Ken being Ken all hell broke loose and in all the

clusterf#ck which ensued Ken is far from innocent with regards to failing to communicate,

beligerent and violent behavior, and an overreaching response.

 

BUT, he was one person who decided to take an unequivocal stand against unconstrained

bolting, and even though I don't agree with many of his methods and behaviors, I have

nothing but respect for his intent and motives at that time. What was and is

unfortunate is his continuing inability and unwillingness to communicate by any

other means than a hammer. There were other means and options, but make no mistake,

the insuing twenty years of relentless bolting speak for itself, and while you may

consider it progress and or evolution, many of viewed then and still view it as a

lowest common denominator activity. And today's prevailing attitude may be

that once a bolt makes it into rock it is somehow sacrosanct many - including

myself - will never accept such a view regardless of how minority our status has become.

 

There are still circumstances where I would have no compunction whatsoever about

chopping, but I would be excrutiatingly clear about communicating my

intent and I would ask they be voluntarily removed before acting. Bolt wars

are never a one-sided affair and they always start when bolts appear, not when they disappear.

 

P.S. He is also a fair photographer and took what I consider one of the photos that best

represented the spirit of the times - of Jim Adair on Maine's sea cliffs. Adair was

another brilliant soul who like many others was lost to us far too early.