Brass Balls Solo Vid

[JayB]

http://www.professorpaddle.com/media/videoview.asp?File_Id=1545

[Serenity]

That guys balls are officially made of brass. Cool vid, thanks for the link.

[Snide]

superdave!

[slaphappy]

Brass Balls... and Smut and The Bone and Crack of Doom. All from a guy who "quit" climbing. Fuckin impressive...

 

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[lancegranite]

He looks different, must be the lack of a t shirt on his head.

[mattp]

Yes, but his little laugh at the start is all Dave.

[Raindawg]

The guys filming this stuff must have been impressed because they made that special high-pitched "woo!" noise when the climber "turned The Bone."

 

 

[kevbone]

Wow....where is that? What is the grade?

[slaphappy]

Was up snomo-boarding by Van Epps this past Feb. Some solo dude rolls up and starts yammering about the Boving route on Dragontail, turns out it was Dave's brother Dan. He offers to show us some "exciting" terrain. We get to this HUGE open bowl and Dan beelines 1000' straight to the top, turns up a narrow coulior, charges through it and turns out just below the rocky ridge top. I just shut my sled off and watched in awe.

 

Apparently the extra large steel sac runs in the family...

 

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[Matt_Alford]

Wow....where is that? What is the grade?

 

Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon

 

Smut 10a

Brass Balls 10b

The Bone 5.9

Crack of Doom 10a/b

 

I was up at Castle a few weeks ago getting my ass handed to me on Devils Fright/Delight

 

Super mellow Dave sails past me on Crack of Doom like it is 5.6.

Dude has good head space!

 

 

[Dannible]

That's bold. 10b is an oldschool rating (castle rating) for Brass Balls, I'd call it c or d. Pulling through the first roof your body is parallel to the ground (can't really tell in the video), and you have to swing out and pull up on jugs. The crux for most people is pulling through the second roof on insecure finger locks.

[lancegranite]

Having climbed w/ SD a couple times, these climbs are nowhere near his limit.

Didn't he move to Ouray and blow the locals minds?

 

[chucK]

That was what blew me away. On that first roof he didn't swing anywhere. It made it look like some slab overlap on the Tooth or something.

 

He did pause briefy at the second roof crux.

[olyclimber]

Damn! And he wasn't even wearing a helmet!

[billcoe]

Damn! And he wasn't even wearing a helmet!

 

Oh oh

 

Braceing for hard left turn helmet discussion.......

 

Nice video!

[AJScott]

I just did brass balls with dannible for the first time a week or so ago...thats a fun route! all the beer at uli's clouded my memory and i thought it was a 10a...second roof got my attention for sure...I like the way he climbed it, the lie back thing looked way easier than what i was doin. cool footage! doods a solid climber for sure!

[Raindawg]

Since we talkin' "Brass Balls" and soloing, here's a couple of snappy pic's of my buddy "pope" going "leashless" on that scary route a few years ago. Note: he'll be the first to tell you that he's "toned it down" since the kids came along and you'll rarely see him these days without a rope on anything serious...although "serious" is a relative term.

 

 

Here's a close-up of the roof moves:

 

Here's a close-up of the roof moves with a dog-head on "pope".

 

 

[pope]

On that first roof he didn't swing anywhere.[/qutoe]

 

Notice his right foot is jammed in the crack, then the left foot goes on the jug well under the lip. That solves the swinging problem.

 

 

He did pause briefy at the second roof crux.

 

I remember hand jamming (palms away) while swinging the left leg onto the spike. You can sit on that thing with toes hooked under some overlaps and have both hands free for placing gear.

[pope]

up of the roof moves with a dog-head on "pope".

 

 

Ain't that IceGirl's dog?

[hawkeye69]

that must be really hard wih a dog head on.....

[telemarker]

Geeze! He makes brass balls look like 5.8. Whenever I lead it, you would think it clocks in around 5.11b.

[Tony_Bentley]

I just climbed BB for the 1st time last Thursday. Awseome.

[skyclimb]

Thats fucking smooth. Good headspace for sure, he's got that shit dialed. Even busts out the cliffhanger for style points.

[billcoe]

Damn proud solo Pope.

[pope]

Damn proud solo Pope.

 

 

"Those were the days!"

 

I gave up that kind of foolishness when (don't laugh) my mother found out what I'd been up to....it made her cry. That and a couple close calls and I realized life could be satisfying without going to the point where only a smear and a finger jam existed between a gratifying experience and closing the final chapter of my story.