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Matt_Alford

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Everything posted by Matt_Alford

  1. Agreed on the 5.7 r rating on this one. I took a 50 foot factor two fall on the second pitch about 25 years ago. The tree in your first photo and a good belay kept me from much worse outcome.
  2. My spiritual homeland has been desecrated. WTF....climbed that central arete a few years back and the abundance of good gear on solid rock was nearly overwhelming.
  3. Jason- Thanks for the show. Nice photos. The Golden Eagle is amazing, likely a rarer sighting than a wolverine in the North Cascades. I would dare say more elusive than Sasquatch as well, but Darin has seen several of those. Matt
  4. I was going to post a trip report for the Inspiration Traverse July 17-20 from North to South, but the important approach beta would seem redundant. I will just add to the visual stoke and affirm that this is one of the better traverses that I have done in the Cascades. \
  5. Hey, easy there young man...who you calling no-one? Nice job Michael T....crushing it! Cheers, Mr. Alford
  6. Micheal T. sends the Dragon of Eden! Does your mother have a clue what you are up to? Nice job throwing yourself at a hard project! Mr. Alford ;-)
  7. No joke Jason. Have a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that someone that would do the work to get there would act in such a manner.
  8. Trip: Noisy Diobsud/Stephen Mather Wilderness - Bacon-Hagen-Blum High Route Trip Date: 07/20/2018 Trip Report: From July 20th-23rd Dave, Darren, Matt and I traverse from Anderson Lakes to Blum Creek summiting Bacon, Hagen and Blum along the way. The route is characterized by excellent views of the Baker and Sister Range to the west the the National Park to the east. Awesome camp sites and outstanding alpine lakes make this a most memorable route. Brush bashing wasn't all that severe save the walk down Blum Ridge to Baker River. You won't find me walking up that route anytime soon. I have been doing trips with these guys for nearly 20 years and I am ever thankful for the friendships and the adventures over the years. I would like to have an intense conversation with the douchbag that left a pile of trash shoved under a rock and shitty TP strewn about at the high camp SW of Bacon. Beer cans and mountain outhouse bags don't decompose and it doesn't seem that difficult to pack out your trash. Alpine eye candy Gear Notes: Ice axe, light crampons, and glacier rope. Approach Notes: Anderson Lakes to north side of Mount Watson.
  9. Old men crush! Nice work and thanks for sharing!
  10. Nice work Michael Telstad! Public service for Darrington Climbers! Way to make the best of a rainy day! Cheers, Mr. Alford ;-)
  11. Juan- To tell you the truth, I never even saw the the pin (or looked for it). We stayed left on the 51 rib to it's terminus with the glacier. The climbing felt mostly 3rd and 4th class with a couple short sections that could have been fifth. We encountered no snow between the avalanche cone and the upper sill glacier. No Fanta can either mate...sorry to dissapoint.
  12. On the list Ivan...just gotta fill my good luck bucket back up. Might take a couple years.
  13. Agreed, the upper glacier climb and summit block is the best climbing on the route and a really classy finish the mountain.
  14. Still up there Tom...with all 4 of your ascents....nut job;-)
  15. Trip: Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 Date: 8/26/2016 Trip Report: Eric Murphy and I continued to peck away at the North Cascades Blue Collar tour, climbing the 1951 Rib on the NE aspect of Johannesberg over two days on August 26th and 27th. We found the climbing both physically and mentally engaging with plenty of "don't f**K-up terrain. We belayed about 4 pitches on the route and descended using a combination of extensive down climbing and several rappels (mostly due to the rain/cloud that enveloped us on the descent.) Information from Steph Abegg's site regarding the route and descent is really valuable if you are considering this route. http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/johannesburg It has been almost 20 years since I first gazed at JBerg across the Cascade River Valley from Boston Basin and wondered if I would ever have the gumption to attempt to climb it. Definitely a route that I am glad to have climbed, but not super anxious to repeat. Crossing the CJ avalanche cone on the short approach. Our route took the slabs left of the waterfalls and crossed back right into the wooded rib. Easy scrambling across the waterfalls before the 1000 feet of vertical bushwacking. Pictures from the route are few. Ours hands stayed pretty busy gripping heather, small cedar trees and mediocre rock. Million dollar bivy. Might just be the best part of the climb ;-) Pretty good North Cascade Sunset Old men. Gear Notes: 60 meters of 8 mm rope (essential), handful of nuts and hexes, 8 shoulder slings and a couple doubles. A couple thin pins could be really useful in the descent. Approach Notes: Up.
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