wayne Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 Trip: Graybeard - North Face Date: 5/6/2007 Trip Report: Wild climb! It is also in great shape right now, though watch out for slides down the gullies. We got clocked numerous time by moderate ones. Also do it while there is a 15 foot tunnel bored through the summit cornice! A bit of a sand bag by the select book saying: snow and ice to 65 degrees. I am no inclineologist but seemed vert for a couple of steps. It is about as much fun as you can have in a day from Seattle or Portland in the case of my partner , Mike Layton. Gear Notes: Screws, pickets, some rock gear,pins Approach Notes: Not bad for postholing except on the way down. We took part of the Colin way out, Left and swam down the deeps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 pics? nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 Ya there are some fucking huge cornices out there right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 I'd say game over with the warm weather headed our way, we barely scraped by...the route calved after we returned to the base. Pics later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 Wow. Nice work. It was miserable and dreary in town all day yesterday. Way to crush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 The spirit of the General was with you with each step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 We were skinning up enroute to the Mesahchie traverse Sunday morning when we heard voices up on Graybeard. A couple in our party saw you guys, but I couldn't make out where you were. It felt warm and looked loaded. Congrats on squeaking by! I'd love to go back and finish the upper section of Graybeard in the right conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 How was the traverse Kyle? How much of Ragged Ridge did you encompass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 We just traversed over to the col between Kitling and Mesahchie. We skied down Mesahchie glacier up over the ridge/pass on the other side and down a drainage to the west of Kitling Lake to the road. It was a great tour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Wow. Nice. I agree with you, I've been at the base of the thing and it ain't no 60 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Cool pics. Glad you made it unscathed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 I'd like to stress that this climb is a lot harder than you think after reading the guidebook, and would be really hard to bail off past the middle step. Bring some rock gear (1-2blades/4 cams), we used it, as the guidebook doesn't recommend it. We used 4 screws total. Pickets are your friend, bring at least 4. The log crossing is now a bridge so if you can't find it... Also, don't bring snowshoes or skiis. The hike in is short (1.5hours) and if you're postholing, just imagine how shitty the climb's gonna be. Conditions for this face need to be perfect. It is the main dump for the ENTIRE face. Wayne and I got fucking pounded by "spindrift" that poured onto us like a fire hose at times. I would highly recommend doing this route mostly in the dark, and on an overcast day. The descent around the opposite way Nelson reccomends is probably quickey, but a bit tricky. Traverse high as possible as a general rule. We encountered loaded slopes and some steep "fuck" snow that was up to our waist on steep slopes above nasty cliffs. If snow conditions were better on the "hike" out (we were soling 5.4 rock) it would go very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Sweetness! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 There were bail pickets, pins, and screws up the 1st 3rd of the face. This has GOT to be one of the most bailed off of winter alpine climb. I've bailed before, so has wayne, and most of the TR's are of people bailing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Sweet looking pics, way to send the sickness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 There were bail pickets, pins, and screws up the 1st 3rd of the face. OMG BOOTY! Did you find a Neutrino up there? Maybe sum windshirts? Where is the picture of the cornice tunnel sickness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 camera or wayne or both froze at the top damnit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 nice job, proud line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted May 8, 2007 Author Share Posted May 8, 2007 Both were well frozen at that point. Sorry , I should have worn a wet suit.Glad I didnt drown your camera, I may never dig another snow cave again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Damn right that looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for putting up some pictures. I really do need to get back to the PNW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 Wayne and Mike, I have a couple digital pictures of the face around 10:00 am that morning which after magnification show you guys as specks about 1/3rd the way up. I'd be happy to post or send them to you, but I'm afraid my computer technology is from the caveman era (Windows '98). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 hell yeah post em! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 Looks like a great climb guys. Shit, that looks like some bomber ice for May? Fuckin A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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