Oregon coast bouldering?

[chugachjed]

I am coming down to seattle/oregon coast in mid-may and I am trying to find out if there is any climbing around seaside/cannon beach area interested mostly in boulders because I've got no partner

[corvallisclimb]

The book... Rock Climbing: Southwest Oregon: Rouge Edition

 

Is the only known(by me) recent publication that has some coastal climbing stuff in it. It does have a fair amount but I dont have it sitting right next to me so I can't tell you if any of the areas in it are near Cannon Beach. But there is tons of choss out there so I imagine you'll find something.

 

Linky

 

 

 

Edited May 4, 2007 by corvallisclimb

[wayne]

McGown was working on a coast gude but punted. there us some stuff but dont count on finding much..

[BigChief]

The rock in that area can be good as long as the weather cooperates and dries it out. Low tides can lend to some good bouldering along the waters edge where the water has cleaned the loose rock away. Cannon Beach area has some. Seaside has nothing I have found.

Edited May 8, 2007 by BigChief

[drater]

I remember some cool stuff south of Cannon Beach, ShoreSands or some place like that. Lincoln City has some cool stuff too.

 

Ton's of choss, take a look.

[matty_g]

Arch Cape (Just S. of Cannon Bch) has some bouldering on the beach. Look for Hug Point, then head South along the beach, where there are some short boulders (chossy, often wet, and some bird shit), including a cave which faces South, is overhanging, and sometimes has a sand landing zone (sometimes it's just rocks)

I love coastal bouldering, and always wanted to bring shoes and surmount the haystack rock at Cannon Beach at low tide sometime. Let us know if you send any hard problems!

 

[dan_forester]

while a noble objective for the serious choss connoisseur, i'm pretty sure haystack rock is off limits on account of the birds nesting there?

[MCash]

Short little boulders made of wet choss that are plastered in bird shit. Sounds killer.

[MATT_B]

I love coastal bouldering, and always wanted to bring shoes and surmount the haystack rock at Cannon Beach at low tide sometime.

 

If I remember correctly there are a bunch of signs saying it is a wild life sanctuary/nesting area and off limits. That and it looked like the options are overhanging loose choss or near vertical grass. Much more than a boulder problem to reach the top.

 

I have done some dinking around at road's end area of Lincoln City. Drive north as far as you can. Walk up the beach for a mile or so at low tide. You can usually get around the headland. Some cool little sea stacks and stuff around there. lots of protable holds too. Don't expect much.

[Adventureboy]

there are some good boulders south and north of indian beach.

i think i got the fa.s of most of the most obvious problems between v2 nd v7.

drive to indiann beach and walk south along the beach about a mile or so. in the process you go around a bend with one good arete porblem and further to the south are some bigboy problems, highballs probably harder than v6. further south through a bunch of boulders strewn about the sea you come to a sandy little cove with two obvious big boulders which both have a couple of ok problems. the big one on the left has a line that follows some raazor sharp little pumice bits from right to left and up a large prow about, v3 the sit is much harder. and a sick sitdown v6 further on the right of the boulder.

immediately right of this boulder is huge rock with 1 v2ish slabby highstep route.

around the sea side and about 15 yards further south is another boulder with a sweet v4ish sloper traverse and between the two is a coole jumpstart v3 mantel onto a chokestone between the two.

also further to the north of this outcropping is a big highball arete probably 25 feet tall with a really cool line on the right side i did maybe v2/3, start as low on the arete as you can.

 

to the north of indian beach is a really cool basalt outcroping about 200 yards long with some really cool highball problems, but, as all of the problems end in a band of highly brocken basalt bits at about 25 feet all of the problems end in really sketchy 58-5.9 freesoloing over broken terrain.

here i climbed a 45 foot traverse that starts on rightmost section of wall and ends in a dihedral to there it faelt like about 5.12 and you could probably go all the way to the end wich would probably be quite hard.

the arete where the traverse ends, v4

thin crack on the right of the arete, 5.9

and thin crack on the left, 11-

but theres quite a bit of potential if you were to be bored.

all of the routes i climbed required much cleaning, and are probably still gritty, also tide is a factor in climbing and reaching the sectors, as you can't climb if the tide is high.

maybe i can give you some more specific answers after you go and find the areas.

 

 

[billcoe]

I think Ujhan already did those.

[Adventureboy]

who's ujahn?

[Adventureboy]

well fa or no fa it was sweet to go explore those problems with no outside info

[Drederek]

Thx for sharing the info A-boy, but where is Indian beach? I spend some time every year in Lincoln City and am wondering if its nearby. We also camp at Cape Lookout (Tillamook) and Harris Beach (Brookings) Most of the northerly stuff I've looked at is a bit on the loose side but down south it seems there is more that is in better shape. It'd be nice to sneak away from the family vacation for an afternoon of bouldering.

[Adventureboy]

to get to indian beach drive south from seaside or north from tillamook, as to go to cannon beach. take the off-ramp and head towards town. before you get to town you get to 4 way stop. hang a right at the 4way and then take another right up a winding roaad that leads you to ecola state park. go right once you get past the gate as for going to ecola head and then your there after about abother mile of winding road.

also if you maintain a low profile you can sleep there for free.

just be sure to get up early before the host makes the rounds.

i slept there for about a week and a half. but i also tried to get to the parking lot to sleep after dark

besure to bring some brushes and a long stick to tape them to as well.

all of the problems probably get dirty quite quickly

Edited June 6, 2007 by Adventureboy

[schnitzem]

Kissing rock in Gold Beach Oregon has two three pitch routes on it. One bolted by me about 7 years ago - which also requires some chocks. Very good exposure on top.

[KingsMM]

I've climbed on the coast just south of Lincoln City. This is the best stuff i've found. The highest is 30ft high. The rock is grity and best described as vertical gravel. Fun! A few cool boulder problems. some easy gear routes if you don't mind the loose, corse rock. I just did a 5.7, two 5.5s, and Top Roped a 5.8 face.

The Location

Some of the Rock

Jerusalem - V3/4?

 

[KingsMM]

Adventureboy you have any pics?

[Drederek]

Found some very good quality rock at Whaleshead Beach, about 5 mi north of Brookings. Didn't have my shoes but had some fun, just had to take the easy options on the traverses and pass on a great looking line up out of a cave.