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bivchad

[TR] Dragontail Peak - Variation of Triple Couloir

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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Variation of Triple Couloirs

 

Date: 3/18/2007

 

Trip Report:

Here's a link for anyone wondering about Dragontail.......obviously until it warms a little, there won't be any real ice.....we slept up top w/o sleeping bags......coldest night of my life! We climbed a couple pitches towards the second before it got too time consuming (ice-glazed rock) for me, hence the rappel pic, so went this route that we saw from the lake. Fun but not as hard as it looks.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/ChadBeeman/TripleCouloirsDragontailPeak

 

Gear Notes:

mostly rock...couple cams, bugaboos, nuts

 

Approach Notes:

Road closed, snowshoes helpful

Edited by bivouacjack

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How about some description? Drew a line on Dragontail's photo which way U went! Otherwise we do not know where? what? when?

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My husband and I climbed Dragontail via Serpentine arête a couple of years ago. It was in the summer. No ice. Thanks for sharing.

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Were the upper couloirs out of shape, forcing you onto a bad-ass line, or did you take the bad-ass line by choice?

 

Either way: bad-ass line, and great pics.

 

Speaking of Dragontail, anyone have beta on the Cotter-Bebie route described in Washington Ice? I believe it finishes up the corner/groove to the right of this variation...

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I believe it finishes up the corner/groove to the right of this variation...

 

There is nothing further right, except Backbone ridge and the Fin itself.

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Rockstar leading in tough conditions Chad!

 

The snow was mostly solid, some sections with grapuel under firm tops -- in shape for climbing but you were glad when you hit the plastic stuff.

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I believe it finishes up the corner/groove to the right of this variation...

 

There is nothing further right, except Backbone ridge and the Fin itself.

 

Let me rephrase: where, in reference to the marked route in BJ's picture, does the Cotter-Bebie route ascend the higher part of the face?

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I thought the Cotter route was between backbone & serpentine, finishing up the huge LF corner on the right edge of the fin.

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marek, look at all the pics, there is one on the way they chose

Man! I see it now, you really have to look for that faint yellow line. Yup! Bad Ass line!

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I climbed it exactly that way once. We went that way when we came up and found zero ice in the runnel section that would lead to the second couloir.

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I climbed it exactly that way once. We went that way when we came up and found zero ice in the runnel section that would lead to the second couloir.

 

Same here in February 2000. I came back a few years later in April and we found the crux ice couloirs well iced. The route we did the first time was significantly more difficult than the standard route.

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