alpine packs

[wydrav13]

i have been looking for a new alping pack, for some time, i am thinking about going with wild things ice sac, does anybody have some input, or ideas of what to go with, for super light 1-3day outings

[psf]

I've got an ice sac and don't really care for it that much. The top flap is better left at home some times as it is a real pain but the worst part of this pack is the straps. they constantly need to be tightened, like every few minutes. If I were looking for a new pack right now I'd look seriouly at the Serrattus packs at mec in canada. Good pricing and real confortable.

Paul

[verticalturtle]

If price is no option and you want extreme versatility, Arc'teryx nozone is something to consider. Beyond that the chaos or chernobyl by cold cold world get rave reviews from everyone I encounter with them. These packs have lasted 12+ years for some I know and they are not easy on their gear (i.e. tossing off the top of a route). I personaly have two Lowe Alpine, Alpine Attacks, a 40 and a 50. They have both suited me well, are light and inexpensive. I also have been with several people who rave about their BD ice pack. I dont know anyone who loves their wild things sacks. They are certainly burley but dont seem to have much else going for them.

Honestly I would say look for features first. 50L works great for me for 2-3 days worth of stuff and a little extra. 40L was okay for an overnight on Stuart N ridge because ir was very light with only bivy gear and most of the time the rest of the stuff is in use. Some packs have gear loops on the harnesses, few have usable tool holsters just behind the hip belt. (this is the big reason I opted for the Lowe over the CCW, they are VERY handy on alpine and my harness has gear loops) Some have a substantial hipbelt, others have almost none. My 40 has only 2in webbing, which is not as comfy on the trail, but oh so nice on route. Also look for a useful removable back pad which can become your bivy pad, mine has many times which saves having to bring a pad. Also some larger packs like the old BD mixed master a big enough and have a sleeve long enough to be a bivy sack. Tool sleeves or no, convienence vs. weight. Crampon pouch/ sleeve vs. daisy chains.

Figure out what you want then get the pack the fits the bill. Most are under 200 and don't come in sizes like bigger packs.

If at first you don't find you like your purchase...go work at a gear store where you get to try everything and get discounts . Its nice to have options.

[Zenolith]

I really dig my Marmot Eiger. Very minimalist and just enough features to be functional and very lightweight. It is also very comfy.

[Rodchester]

I would really recommend the BD. I have used it and love it. It is simple and light, really focused on climbing. Big enough for 1-3 days for lightweight trips.

Everything you need in a pack and nothing more. With dual ice tool tubes, an expandable crampon pouch and built-in tail holders for skis, the Ice Pack was designed for alpine/ice climbers that appreciate the essentials, not fluff.

Comes in two sizes, go with the 50L if you want to do multi-day.

Surf By:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/alpinism/packs_ice_pack.html

 

Also try Marmot Front Point:

http://www.marmot.com/products/packs/packs_prod_bkpk_frntpt.html

It is a bit larger than the BD. And I have not used it, but it fits well into the class of packs you are looking at. It is lightweight and simple, really focused on alpine climbing. It was designed by Pete Takeda. I think he climbs pretty hard...ha ha ha.

Any way...good luck!!!

------------------

Have a nice day.

[Dru]

nozone! nozone! nozone! dey kik ass.

[Illimani94]

I've apparently had better luck with the Ice Sack than others here. The top lid is a pain, but no strap slipping problems, and the carry is pretty good for a totally soft pack. Better on me than the CCW Chernobyl I used to have.

Having said that, I think the BD Ice Pack is better in almost every way, except durability. Tool tubes will hold 2 tools each if nec., top lid is easy to use, hipbelt works better on me, pretty stable. Not as light as an Ice Sack, but not far off. My 44L is a bit small for me to overnight (yes, I overpack!), so the 50L looks like a good choice. Wanna work a trade?

Another pack I had a chance to try recently is Granite Gear's Alpine Light. About 3200 cu. in., tricked out for alpine climbing, and the size Med (not that it does in fact come in 3 back lengths) is just UNDER 3 lb. Frameless, and the back pad is a doubled up Z-rest. Might be worth a look. www.granitegear.com

For something a bit more supportive, but still light, Arc'teryx Nozone or Khamsin 52. These guys really know how to make a pack!

[This message has been edited by Illimani94 (edited 03-20-2001).]

[Bronco]

I am also searching for an Alpine pack and have a couple of questions.

How important are ice tool tubes as opposed to ice axe loops? I have noticed my tool is not totaly secure in the loops and I almost lost it last weekend bushwacking.

How important is the removable Biv Pad? It seems like a good idea but how useful is it? My thinking here is to get a light-wieght pack and just bring my own pad or lay on the pack itself in a unplanned biv.

Ryan

 

[Alex]

Hi, I have some limited experience with Wild Things packs and have what I believe is one of the best-designed alpine packs around, the Trango Alpine. It is the right size, climbs well, and is well made. Unfortunately, it is not manufactured anymore, but it serves as a great example of a perfectly sized and designed alpine pack.

Its features, specifically:

* 2 ice axe loops, tubes are overkill imo.

* thin removable foam pad. This is a useful pad sitting on snow or cooking or for legs when sleeping, so now I only carry a 3/4 length pad in addition and use this backpad foamy for my legs when sleeping on snow.

* its size is perfect for 2-3 day trips in the summer, including large rock rack and ropes, and long days ice climbing in the winter or even a light overnight in the winter. I routinely carry a Bibler, ultralight sleeping bag, stove, full complement of technical gear comfortably in this pack.

* slightly padded hipbelt. Nothing like a Dana, but not just 2 inch webbing either. The hipbelt features a way to add gear loops.

* ski slots.

* light colored body to make finding something inside the pack during the day actually possible

When looking for the perfect alpine pack, I believe this pack can serve as a good benchmark. Similar packs include the Cold Cold World Packs, Wild Things packs, and offerings by other random manufacturers.

[verticalturtle]

Bronco

tubes sure are nice even though many consider them a luxury. They are in fact not absolutely essential.

As for the pad, many removable (all I think) ones fold out either verticaly or horizontaly and at least one is a trifold. this makes for more space, and not having to sleep on all the straps a buckles. I have used mine many times and think them an asset. you can bring your own but on some routes they get in the way alot.

Just one guys opinion, but something to think about.

[erik]

i recently went through getting a new pack thing and i came home w/ an arcteryx nozone. i tried wildthings ice sac, it left a knot on my back for a week, mtn smith too many long straps, heavy and overkill on the suspension, osprey comortable pack too much suspension and really heavy. i looked at the ccw packs, they seemed to me a little lite in the contruction, i have a habit of breaking shit easily. the nozone has a removable frame and a tri folded ridgerest works great! in place of it. all the bells & whistles come off to strip her down to sub 2lbs. it has a really big collar so i can sleep in it(i'm not looking forward to this) the spectra cloth rips easy, but the damage does not spread.(i have also ripped codura packs so i wasn't that bummed though.) it comes with a 1 3/4" waist belt and a padded beast, both have gear loops and tool holsters. a bit pricy retail, but it is made in north america and arcterx has always been kind to me with any problems that i create. the biggest thing that i used to measure packs was the wieght vs capacity. i am really lazy(some people call them minimalists). tool tubes seem to add weight and if you have bent shaft tools sometimes it is difficult to use. if you are having problems keeping your tools in check then twist them a couple times before you lash the shafts down. hard to say what pack is best, but i only really trust my own opinion in the end. everyone else is just an appetizer for the brain. so go try them all on and you can borrow any pack i have to test out.

[forrest_m]

Another vote for the Arcteryx Nozone. I just got back from 3 months in south america, and I took the Nozone as my only pack, and I am a satisfied user. Most packs that try to "do it all" end up doing nothing really well, but this is an exception. Consider the extremes: I used it to carry 80+ pounds, including climbing gear and skis and food + fuel for two weeks. It was maxed out, but tolerable, as comfortable as you could expect for the weight (and I mean compared to any pack, my dana astralplane included). Later, took out the framesheet, put on the minibelt and compressed the straps and used it for light & fast day climbs and it did not feel ridiculously big. Usually when you try to squish down a bigger pack you end up with a bulging hefty sack or all you gear in a fat bottom, but the internal compression straps on the nozone do a great job of reducing the overall volume evenly. And Arcteryx stuff is built bomber. Two thumbs up.

[Bronco]

Coincedentally, I put on a Nozone and also a Lowe alpine Attack - it wasen't even close. The Nozone was much nicer and if you want tool tubes, Arcterex sells a nifty combo crampon pocket with tool tubes that strap on the back of the pack. Very nice pack and the price shows it.

I am going to try a couple others, but the Nozone is definitely the front runner.

I currently use a Lowe Alpine crossbow 90+15 which is a great load hauler but might as well be an external on a bush wack.

 

 

[Doug]

Another vote for Arc'Teryx! I don't have the nozone, but I do own 2 others (Khamsin 50 & Bora 95). Excellent craftmanship, very comfy, maybe a little heavier than purists would approve of, but overall a great buy. Speaking of which, to save a few bucks head northe to B.C. to buy one. 2 Years ago with the exchange rate, I got the 2 packs for $395.00 U.S.!

[Dru]

I'm contradicting you Bronco, the "alpine patch" for Arcteryx packs isn't designed to fit the Nozone specifically. The Khamsin-50(discontinued) and Bora 70/90(ditto, except you can still get them at MEC Vancouver I think) have alpine patches which replace the 'standard' back pocket. The Nozone comes with a flap type thing that has crampon bungee, two axe loops, and you can put a shovel behind it. It DOES NOT have tool tubes.

when I worked in the Arcteryx factory in shipping we played around with the alpine patches and Nozones and found out the 70/90 alpine patch fits it better than the k50 patch does. But it's really designed not to have either attached and neither will fit it perfectly.

(Look Jon, I posted something relevant! are ya happy now?)

[Bronco]

My bad for listening to the "counter help". Thanks for the info Dru. it probably saved me a few bucks.

There really dont seem to be any other packs designed as "thoughtfully" with the aplpine and ice climber in mind. But, you could almost buy 2 of the BD ice packs for one Nozone. A quandry for sure.

Bronco

[Bronco]

Dru:

Since it is apparent you are both the Arcteryx and BC guru, do you have any suggestions on where to shop in Vancouver?

Thanks for any help.

Ryan

[Dru]

Hey Ryan

If you want gear (packs, cams whatever) MEC is first choice. Then try Coast Mtn. Sports, they have all that TNF/MH/Patagucci stuff that the Coop doesnt carry, plus the full Arcteryx clothing line. If you are a guide or work in the industry (like for Metolius or whoever) and get pro deals, you can go straight to Arcteryx in Burnaby and buy stuff, otherwise you are out of luck because they don't sell to anyone who walks in the door.

If you're up at Squamish for the weekend, check out Valhalla Pure for good clothing and the usual gear lines ( they carry Trango Cams, no one else in Vancouver area does that I know of) and Climb-On for weird Euro gear like the Kong Adjustable FiFi Hook and "universal" pitons, and $39CDN Rock Empire cams . The people at Climb-On are also super friendly and if you can't find Luc at the crags you can drop off cams there for repair work, or buy his copperheads and funknesses there, cheaper than the CoOp ones.

There are also stores like Carleton's on Kingsway that are good, but i hardly ever go into them because they're out of the way for me so I can't personally recommend them. If you go by, though, they'll probably have some good stuff. Check the websites and look for sales!

A lot of the "gear" (clothing) stores near the CoOp, like AJ Brooks and Europe Bound, exist only to sell lookalike gear with bus stop features like zip-in fleece linings to trendies, don't expect much in the way of decent prices or good gear there. Some people like Taiga Works - I don't. The sleeping bags are Ok but everything else (jackets and so on) is garbage and the staff turns over faster than 45 RPM LPs. the upper management there are all in some religious cult so if you want to buy a book on how to cure aids through prayer go look in the "Travel Medicine" section there...

[Thomas]

I'd like to comment on the topic of tool tubes vs the 'old school' loop system of lashing tools. I have the 'alpine patch' for the Arc'teryx Khamsin 50 (great pack), but I am not at all fond of the tool tubes. I always seem to be slower breaking out my tools or stowing my tools than my friends that have the 'old school' system. Its also way more fiddly, something to consider when your fingers are so cold they don't fuction well anymore.

I think tool tubes are an example of some engineer fixing something that wasn't broken to begin with. The regular system is as fast as tool tubes (or faster) and it's ligher to boot. The simpler the better imo.

[Bronco]

Thanks guys goooood info.

One potential hang up with the Nozone I noticed while trying another one on - nowhere to stow pickets and wands (or skis?)

I am overlooking something pretty obvious arent I?

HELP ME

Bronco

 

[Dru]

The Nozone has those "ghost straps" (internal compression straps). everyone hates the fact you can't hang pickets/skis on them. So, Arcteryx makes add on, removable external straps for attaching this stuff that you can attach yourself. you get 4 of them (2 a side) and they come stored in the lid pocket. probably they were still in the lid pocket of the pack you tried on and that's why you didn't see them.

 

if you really plan on carrying skis a lot check out the borea instead.

as for tool tubes vs. old school straps, with tubes i can remove my tool without taking the pack off, and i never figured out how to do this with old style straps, it takes 2 hands instead of 1 for tubes. that's why i like tubes. of course, i have a k50 with alpine patch, a nozone, and a BD MixedMaster so i have some choice when it comes to packs...

[fishstick]

I'd describe my Nozone as a good climbing pack, but it lacks in terms of approach comfort and ski carrying ability. Granted, mine's an old prototype, but I find the shoulder straps too narrow for the loads expected with a heavy rack and three tools. I'd also prefer a bit more room to tilt my head back. As Dru points out accessories can be added to carry skis, but who wants to fool around with such when it's just barfing slush out of the NW sky. On a positive note however, balance and construction are brilliant.

I think it's worth mentioning that I know several folks who own/use both Nozones and Bora 40s (similar background to Dru). The 40 is their pack of choice despite its weight simply because it's more comfortable.

 

[Rodchester]

BD Ice pack in the 50L. It rocks and climbs very well.

[Nick]

A number of the Granite gear packs are worth a close look. They carry and function extraordinarily well, they are very light, and cheap too. I have been using the Couloir all winter and it is an excellent pack. I like the tool tubes on my old Osprey Zealot because you can grab your axe in a jiffy without taking the pack off, even when you've strapped other suff to the back of the pack. The Zealot is a great alpine pack when you have a heavy/bulky load to carry. Too bad they quit making it! Nick

[dan_e]

The tubes are designed so you can remove a tool without taking off your pack. This feature has saved my butt at least once that I can remember. I had custom ones made for my Dana Alpine, hardly a weight issue. I just bought the Lowe Alpine Vision 40 for one day alpine climbs/hikes. It's really light and is not loaded with extra straps and crap. For around $75 (at REI) it's a great deal.