Illimani94

I've used my Yashica T4 for 5 or 6 years now. Light, weather-resistant, takes good pics. I've only shot slide film through it. I do miss having a zoom lense at times. For a small, light zoom cam the Olympus Stylus Epic series is the way to go.

My Vertech is now 10 years old, and has always worked great, as long as I feed it a battery every couple years. I tend to wear mine on a cord around my neck, so getting wet hasn't been an issue. Also I've had the batteries changed at Avocet, so maybe they are more careful with keeping any case seals intact. Don't know.... None of the newer watches have intrigued me except the Highgear model someone mentioned, the one with the carabiner. That would make it simple to keep on a cord safe under clothes, or clip it to a pack where an accurate temperature reading could be obtained.

I can never get a decent fit in the BD gloves - weird hands or something. My current favs are the Iceflow gloves from Cloudveil. The other guys hit it dead on: great close fit that allows you to fiddle with gear, surprisingly warm (I've used them down into single digit temps). Not sure how they'd handle multiday trips w/ no heat for drying though. For shelled gloves w/ removable liners I get a pretty decent fit from Granite Gear's Ice Sparring gloves and the old Stretch Triolets. Have yet to try the Stretch Element gloves. Basically, if it's too cold for the Iceflow gloves I go straight to mittens....

You could try a gear repair shop like Rainy Pass Repair to see how hard it would be to remove the cuffs from a jacket you like otherwise, then add in sleeve extensions with new cuffs at the ends. Doesn't look like it would be too complicated on a 3-ply laminated or coated fabric. Worth a shot. Alternately, call Integral Designs and explain what it is you want in a jacket. They may have some lighter weight material that they could turn into a jacket for you. Any time I've talked to them they've seemed fairly open to custom work. Good luck. My arms aren't as extendo as yours; I sometimes get a decent fit from Patagonia, Cloudveil, or Arc'teryx. Not always, but sometimes.

For trips where the bag might end up on the top of a truck - or a pack animal - Wild Things Mule Bags. My pair of these are 12 and 19 years old respectively. Both have flown somewhere every year of their lives, both have been dragged through parking lots, strapped on mules or llamas, lashed to the top of buses, etc. One served as a flexible Rocket Box for several ice climbing trips, strapped to the Yakima rack on my car. Tough duffels. That said, I've become a big fan of those wheeled Eagle Creek (and others, but mine are Eagle Creek) duffles. The one we have is massive, yet the wheels and rigid undercarriage make it a breeze to roll across parking lots, through airports, etc. I note that the wheels and undercarriage take up some of your precious weight allotment, something the airlines are getting more picky about. If you decide to go wheeled, get one with the collapsible rigid handle - much easier to tow than the ones without that feature.

I have about a week's worth of climbing, and no problems so far. I did cut off the little clips though. First time out one of those ended up under the cuff of a tool leash - painful. The only climbing I've done in them has been cold. I find them surprisingly warm, but I do swap into a pair of mittens at the belays. I like 'em. As to the guy touting the Vinylgloves, or whatever they're called.... A Canadian buddy of mine used to climb in these rubberized canvas fisherman's mitts (Nokia I think). I used to laugh at him until I tried them. Warm, very grippy on tools, precurved and box cut, and really really waterproof. The canvas interior takes a long time to dry, but even swapping a fresh fleece liner into a damp mitt was pretty warm the next day. The palms even survive rappels if you don't rush them. Certainly better than some of the OR mitts I've climbed in. Some of the oddest solutions can work really well.

Yeah, that's about the size of it. So far I've found a couple things that work reasonably well FOR ME 1. Cloudveil Icefloe gloves. These fit my hands really well. Thin and grippy; I can handle gear, clip stuff, etc. with ease. I've used them in pretty cold conditions (single digit temps - Farenheit) and they're surprisingly comfortable. I do swap into a pair of mittens for the belays, and warm the gloves inside my jacket. I have yet to use these gloves in wet conditions, and I have a feeling they aren't going to be very waterproof - or not at all. 2. Granite Gear Ice Raptor gloves. These are similar to BD's Ice Glove. I got them cheap, and found that they are a better fit on my hands. Reasonably good feel, pretty warm, reasonably water-resistant. I sometimes climb with these over a pair of Powerstretch gloves instead of using the stock liner. One annoying thing: they have this waterproof membrane insert that's not attached to anything. The theory is that if you NEED waterproofness this non-sewn membrane will keep your liners dry; if you don't need the waterproofness you leave the inserts out so they don't get damaged. In practice, adding the inserts trashes the fit of the gloves, for me anyway. But they're otherwise sturdy and warm and have survived abuse so far. That's what I got. I love climbing in the Icefloes (BD Drytool would probably be similar, but different fit), but if it's seriously wet they're not going to keep it out. For a shelled glove, BD Ice Glove, the Granite Gear glove, something like that is the best bet so far. I keep meaning to try the Mixed Master; if they fit the price is a steal. Or you could just climb in shelled mitts, which are warmer when damp anyway....

I've used the Alpine Light. Pretty nice pack, carries surprisingly comfortably for having just a wide piece of webbing for the waistbelt. Tool tubes are hypalon, which may be a bit harder to holster/unholster than nylon; plus side, you can't hurt 'em. Ditto the crampon patch. Uses those tough rubber Voile straps; tough, darned tough. Comes in 3 sizes for getting that perfect fit. Nice pack, very well made.

One option that's sort of midway between the small gaz stoves like the Pocket Rocket, Primus, Gigapower, etc. and the liquid-fuel workhorses from MSR or Primus is the Coleman Xtreme. The stove itself is light, a blowtorch when cranked up (at one of my winter camping clinics the Xtreme outran a Dragonfly to boil - and not by a little), yet simmers beautifully. It's a separated-fuel design like the MSR liquid fuel stoves, so you can use a serious windscreen with it. To be fair, Coleman doesn't supply a windscreen, but getting an MSR 'screen is no problem. The fuel cartridges are a unique design from Coleman; they only work on the X stoves, and they're the only fuel you can use with the X stoves. Fuel seems to be readily available from REI, so no problem unless you're flying somewhere that doesn't have access to the fuel. The big cartridges carry 300 gm of butane/propane mix; we've gotten 5 or 6 days use for two, 4 or 5 days for three - this with no melting snow for water. The legs are a little narrow, but still more stable than a typical gaz stove in non-hanging mode. I've never run it in a tent, but it's never flared on me either and I'd do it if without worry. In short, this stove offers most of the advantages of gaz stoves (simple and mostly unbreakable, easy to light, simple to simmer) and many of the assets we use liquid fuel for (massive heat output, serious windscreen/heat exchanger). If you plan on being out for a long time, or if you're spending serious time in someplace really cold like Alaska, or if you're cooking in camp in Bolivia, you may have to go multifuel. Otherwise, the Xtreme is worth a look.

As a former four-eye (LASIK last year, the best option IMHO), and user of 4 or 5 pairs of 'scrip glacier glasses... 1) Plastic lenses are preferable to glass. Glass does have better optics (though not by much) and don't scratch as readily. It's also heavier, break-prone, and must be coated to get the UV absorption. Any of the optical plastics absorb 100% UV naturally, so no UV coating is required. A SCRATCH-RESISTANT coating definitely is unless you want to replace lenses every year. 2) One argument for glass lenses if your 'scrip isn't too bad ( I was -8 diopters in both eyes before the zap) is photograys. As someone else mentioned, photochromic lenses can go from moderately tinted in flat light conditions to DARK in bright and cold conditions. My photograys got as dark as any glacier glass lenses I've seen. Photogray is in the glass, and it doesn't wear out with time. There's also a brown photochromic if you prefer the contrast-enhancing brown lenses. Down side? Glass, so high corrections are heavy. Breakage is more of an issue as with all glass lenses. There is a plastic photochromic lense material. It's range of darkness isn't nearly as good as photograys, and the effect apparently wears out after a few years. 3) For most conditions, glacier glasses are better than goggles. Sturdier, less prone to fogging. I like frames that have removable side shields, but then I'm more prone to overheating than many. 4) Frames I've used that tolerate prescription lenses well. Cebe 4000, the standard Bolle glacier glass frame, the classic round Julbo. I especially like the fit of the Cebe frame, though it is expensive. The important thing is to find a frame that hugs your face and allows minimal light leaks around the frame and side shields. Good luck. Actual prescription glacier glasses can be expensive, but I've never found a "fitover" type of glasses that didn't have distortion problems or fogging.

Re. the Vertige. The last time I used one of these (some years ago now) the reverse curve pick was pretty steep. Hard to get a natural swing without bouncing the pick. They may well have changed this by now...

I have the related Wild Things Denali - same basic concept as the Belay Parka, but with a w/b shell (mine's ancient, so the shell is Gore-tex; last time I looked they were using Sympatex). I can second DP Smith's comments. Put this sucker on and I warm up right away. And no matter how much spindrift falls down my neck I stay that way. Just check the sizing before you buy...

The old Mixed Master was about the size of the larger Ice Pack. Had a framesheet with two narrow stays as well as a trifold piece of thin closed-cell foam. Two compression straps, the crampon pocket, tool tubes and a vertical access zipper down one side. Fabrics appear the same as current Ice Packs, except that the back of a MM was soem sort of textured material that gathered snow; current Ice Packs have plain cordura back there. If memory hasn't shorted out the MM came in 3 back lengths, making it easy to get a fit. I used to have a Mixed Master, which was a reasonably nice pack. Comfortable, fit me pretty well, reasonable capacity. I used mine for most of a winter without the frame sheet, and the carry was still as good as any soft pack I've used. The current Ice Pack 50L is probably pretty close to the Mixed Master, but check the fit before buying; I think the Ice Packs come in only one back length.

I've had a Mk3 for about 7 years now. Has held up well. ventilates well (we got the 2nd door) in just about all conditions. I'd avoid the heavy-duty floor next time; really adds weight and - worse - packed size. As noted by someone else, get the extra guyout points and the door awning options. I'd buy another one. Maybe a smaller one next time....

I used a set of the Blacklite pots on the Wonderland Trail this summer. Light, good heat transfer, staggeringly easy to clean. Even the boiled-over cream sauce (don't ask!) came off with a bit of scrubbing with a scrap of Scotch Brite pad. Heat transfer is good too. Titanium is lighter for sure, but enough to justify the cost?

Two more suggestions. First, go to the Climbing magazine website, and wander around in the "how to" articles. Sometime in the past couple years they had some information on making a hanging stove setup for the X G/K. Second, there's an old John Barry book called "Alpine Climbing", one of those how-to books that you already know most of anyway. However, in the Equipment chapter he has a photo of a homemade X G/K hanging setup, along with a brief description. Good luck. We'll all be interested to hear how your Bibler survives this experiment.

I got a pair of the Dry Tools last year. Moderately warm, great feel for gear, survived well. As long as you don't ask too much warmth of them they're great. Carry warm mitts for the belays and you'll be fine. I like 'em.

No experience with Powershield yet. I've used a pair of Schoeller Dryskin Extreme pants (3 winters of ice and snow, and wore them in Bolivia last summer)., and have a friend who uses both an Arc'teryx Gamma jacket and MEC one-piece suit - Powerstretch vest with Powershield bottom. He says Powershield is like Powerstretch on steroids - stretchy and fuzzy warm, but seriously blocks the wind and sheds snow nicely. My experience w/ Dryskin Extreme is that the warmth is what's missing from that fabric; for cold conditions I have to layer long johns, Powerstretch tights, or both underneath. That should make Dryskin Ex more versatile; when it's relatively warm you can layer lighter, or not layer. Powershield, you get the fuzz whether you need it or not. Agree about Dryskin Ex bagging when the pants have gotten wet from the snow; not a big deal, but it does happen. Mine have been darned tough though. I finally put a nick in a doubled knee with a front point last winter; other than that, no damage at all. Just to make things more interesting, I heard that Cloudveil was coming out with a Dryskin Extreme bib this winter. Arc'teryx Gamma or Cloudveil? Hmmm....

I bought a similar garment, Integral Designs' Denali pants, for a trip to Bolvia last summer. Also used them this winter during ice climbing season. Stuff small, warm, Pertex shell sheds snow and stops the breeze pretty well. Great concept, since when I need that much insulation I'm not moving - either in camp or at belay. I sized mine to fit over my typical climbing clothes.

Another vote for the softshell approach. Two winters ago I got a pair of Schoeller Dryskin Extreme pants (Mammut Champ Alp) thanks to the raving of Jim Nelson. Have since worn these through two winters of ice climbing and an expedition to Bolivia. Great comfort range, much tougher than shell pants/bibs, and stretch. Don't block wind like true shell fabric, but pretty good. If you plunk down in wet snow your butt WILL get wet, but they dry. Falling snow, mist, light rain, even the drips of a melting ice climb, were no problem. Ice climbing I wear a pair of Patagonia Activist Fleece tights underneath. In Bolivia, a pair of mid weight Terramar bottoms was sufficient beneath the Mammuts. I used to carry my old Gore-tex bibs as backup, but soon switched to a pair of full side zip Activent pants "just in case". I've used them maybe half-dozen times in 3 years. Check it out. A pair of "softshell" pants can be the pivot point of an amazingly versatile lower body system. You'll love 'em

Hmmm... You may have me there. I finished the cartridges out, punctured them with the included tool, let them air out, and smashed them flat. Aluminum, easy to do. I then threw them in my duffel and flew them home. And added them to the recyclables bag for trash pickup. It's possible the recycling guys balked when they got to the bag. I doubt it though. By the time they got home they neither smelled like fuel nor looked like a gas cartridge. So I don't really KNOW for sure, I'm just assuming. Coleman says the cartridges are recyclable, and they give you the means to purge any remaining gas. That's my story.

We had our Dragonfly up to 16,000' in Bolivia last summer. Ran fine on the white gas we managed to find there. The ability to throttle down is very nice, not only for simmering meals, but also to keep a stove ticking over until you're ready for the next brew. No repriming. Big footprint is pretty stable. Having said that, THE stove for reliability, horsepower, and ability to burn just about any flammable liquid is the X G/K. They are a pain to pack, simmer is almost nonexistent, but lots of heat and you can always fix what's wrong. We burned crappy auto gas (leaded!?) our first trip to Bolivia; I did a lot of reaming out tubing and cleaning jets, but the thing ran. The Primus Multifuel looks like a great idea - in theory you can burn a variety of liquid fuels plus Lindahl-valve cartridges. Guys I know who've used the stove say the power is good and it's pretty reliable. I've shied away because I know how to repair MSRs, and don't Primus. I really like the Coleman XTreme stove. Light, high output, and their innovative cartridges are more tolerant of cold than most. Plus they're recyclable.

I've apparently had better luck with the Ice Sack than others here. The top lid is a pain, but no strap slipping problems, and the carry is pretty good for a totally soft pack. Better on me than the CCW Chernobyl I used to have. Having said that, I think the BD Ice Pack is better in almost every way, except durability. Tool tubes will hold 2 tools each if nec., top lid is easy to use, hipbelt works better on me, pretty stable. Not as light as an Ice Sack, but not far off. My 44L is a bit small for me to overnight (yes, I overpack!), so the 50L looks like a good choice. Wanna work a trade? Another pack I had a chance to try recently is Granite Gear's Alpine Light. About 3200 cu. in., tricked out for alpine climbing, and the size Med (not that it does in fact come in 3 back lengths) is just UNDER 3 lb. Frameless, and the back pad is a doubled up Z-rest. Might be worth a look. www.granitegear.com For something a bit more supportive, but still light, Arc'teryx Nozone or Khamsin 52. These guys really know how to make a pack! [This message has been edited by Illimani94 (edited 03-20-2001).]

Don't know about those aluminum shovels. I bent the blade of a Black Diamond D-9 this winter. And it wasn't even doing something fun; I was clearing the snowplow debris from my DRIVEWAY. That sludge is more like avalanche debris than I realized. 'Course a D-9 is really too big to be a backcountry shovel, but that's another story... As to the mountaineering shovel, that has the toughest blade I've ever seen, and an ice axe can be used as the handle, if you have an SMC or old BD Alpamayo axe. The new BD alpine axes, and many others, have narrower shafts now. May be what spurred Black Diamond to stop making them.

Another vote for Wild Things Primaloft. I've had a Denali Parka for 3 years now. Fits over my std winter climbing outfit, so I can just pull it on at the belay or camp. Great warmth, blocks the wind, doesn't mind the spindrift and ice chunks dropped in the neck. I also have one of the Primaloft sweaters. Great layer for summer climbing, or any season extra. My XL weighs 17 oz, stuffs into a tiny ball, and is warmer than any fleec this side of the old Retro stuff (imagine how THAT would fit in a pack!). My only complaint is that I had to go to an XL to get the torso fit; apparently REAL climbers are skinnier than I am. Not a bad thing necessarily (the sizing) - I have plenty of arm length. Alternatives, warmer than the WT Primaloft but less so than the Denali: Cloudveil makes a nice Primaloft jacket, as does MEC; also check out Integral Designs' Dolomitti. For burly parka alternatives: WT also makes a Belay Parka, cut like the Denali but using one of those silicone-treated fabrics for lighter weight and better breathability; and Patagonia's DAS parka has been around for a while, a proven performer.